Amal remote float Bowel carb.

[Wight-biker]

Afternoon Oricals.
My A10 Plunger was bought as a runner but of course it wasn't.
So many sheckles and time later l have a Magneto with a spark that will light up the Village. 
Many thanks to Moose at Minimag for that but l still have an annoying issue l can't work out?
It was bought from the deceased estate of a chap l knew, Covid got him @#$*×%.
He knew his was round BSA's and had already had a lot of work done including a new Amal pre Monoblock carb.
But, l cannot for the life of me stop it flooding the engine. The float just doesn't stop the fuel flow. I have the float on setting 2 but no different on 1 either. It seems the needle does not stop the flow of fuel.
I have checked it, there's no muck in there, it's a brand new carb!
Any ideas folks?
I'm completely bamboozled. 

[Rex]

Amal float needles are made "universal" for use with both copper and plastic floats these days. There are two grooves for the float clip one marked C and the other P, so possibly you have the clip in the wrong groove?

[Wight-biker]

Amal float needles are made "universal" for use with both copper and plastic floats these days. There are two grooves for the float clip one marked C and the other P, so possibly you have the clip in the wrong groove?

Hi Rex. I did say I'd tried it on both setting with not diffence at all. This is what is perplexing me.
Kind regards, Paul.

[muskrat]

G'day W-b.
I think I remember (not good these days) someone here having a similar problem. It turned out to be a casting flash stopping the float from fully rising.
Cheers

[Minto]

If you have it on the side stand it will flood, mine doesn’t, but I think it’s the exception to the rule… cue smug grin.

[Slymo]

Does it flood as in drip fuel on the ground or just run excessively rich. The floats do get leaky and you can tell if they have liquid in them that the solder may have cracked. the cone valve at the bottom of the bowl may be compromised but what can also happen is that the body of the carb gets belled by the repeated over tightening of the big nut at the bottom that the float bowl attaches too. This means the jet block is loose in the body although this is hidden by the fact that the bottom of the carb body appears to be a tight fit on the jet block. There are galleries in the jet block that are supposed to be a tight fit with corresponding holes in the Mazac body. If this is a possibility then pulling the jet block out and applying some engineer's blue to it and sliding it back in will show you if it is contacting properly. If it isn't and lots don't. you can gently scrape the bottom edge of the carb body until you get contact on the appropriate side and you can then shim it over with suitable paper. This can bring the carb back to life and make all the usual adjustments work again.

[Rex]

Amal float needles are made "universal" for use with both copper and plastic floats these days. There are two grooves for the float clip one marked C and the other P, so possibly you have the clip in the wrong groove?

Hi Rex. I did say I'd tried it on both setting with not diffence at all. This is what is perplexing me.
Kind regards, Paul.

Fair do's, I do tend to skim read in high temperatures..
If it's a bottom-fed carb take the lid off and see if the float needle shuts off the juice too high, or not all. That'll tell you if it's seat sealing issues or needle problems.

[Swarfcut]

 This is the same problem Frank had with the 276 carb on a Longstroke.  If the float operation and needle seating are good, it is all down to the relative height of the fuel level in the bowl compared to the height of the needle jet outlet in the mixing chamber. Fuel level too high, it simply overflows, replenished as it should be. The float bowl is raised or lowered by the thickness of the sealing washers on the bowl mounting.  Thicker washer between mount and carb body lowers the bowl.  A missing  or too thin sealing washer under the jet block will raise the bowl.  In effect moving the big bottom nut and bowl upwards, closer to the jet outlet, raising the relative fuel level. All covered in my post of June 13. 

 Just because it's new does not mean it's set up properly, we like to think so but maybe not. Also manufacturing defects, with float needle and its seat being things to check. We used to lap these in with Brasso metal polish!

 Swarfy.

[Wight-biker]

Afternoon Oricals.
My A10 Plunger was bought as a runner but of course it wasn't.
So many sheckles and time later l have a Magneto with a spark that will light up the Village. 
Many thanks to Moose at Minimag for that but l still have an annoying issue l can't work out?
It was bought from the deceased estate of a chap l knew, Covid got him @#$*×%.
He knew his was round BSA's and had already had a lot of work done including a new Amal pre Monoblock carb.
But, l cannot for the life of me stop it flooding the engine. The float just doesn't stop the fuel flow. I have the float on setting 2 but no different on 1 either. It seems the needle does not stop the flow of fuel.
I have checked it, there's no muck in there, it's a brand new carb!
Any ideas folks?
I'm completely bamboozled. 

Hi folks, thanks all for your invaluable advice. I have resolved it. It seems the needle was not going into the lid properly. I just lightly turned a twist drill in the hole with my fingers and hey presto, no more flooding.
So advice here really helped. Thank you all.

[ttrand]

Does it flood as in drip fuel on the ground or just run excessively rich. The floats do get leaky and you can tell if they have liquid in them that the solder may have cracked. the cone valve at the bottom of the bowl may be compromised but what can also happen is that the body of the carb gets belled by the repeated over tightening of the big nut at the bottom that the float bowl attaches too. This means the jet block is loose in the body although this is hidden by the fact that the bottom of the carb body appears to be a tight fit on the jet block. There are galleries in the jet block that are supposed to be a tight fit with corresponding holes in the Mazac body. If this is a possibility then pulling the jet block out and applying some engineer's blue to it and sliding it back in will show you if it is contacting properly. If it isn't and lots don't. you can gently scrape the bottom edge of the carb body until you get contact on the appropriate side and you can then shim it over with suitable paper. This can bring the carb back to life and make all the usual adjustments work again.

Slymo, your reply caught my eye. I am having trouble starting, and it doesn’t want to idle or run at low revs/ stalls out. . I have a 276, everything appears to be in good order. New factory fibre washers, everything squeaky clean, although when the jet block is in the carb body, its a little loose. I remember it being tighter before. It’s a good firm sliding fit until the last bit, when it drops in and is noticeably loose once in its final placement. If I understand you correctly, the orifices in the jet block and the carb body need to line up and be tight in order for gas/air to transfer across this gap. Now, as its a firm sliding fit to get it to go home, the engineers blue will likely rub off on its way, and not give me a good indication of tightness in its final position. Is there a way to firm up the connection, without new parts? Shim opposite the jet orifices?