A10 front break modification

[RGS Chris]

Thanks for the add, and greetings from Sydney Aus.

I've recently purchased a Rocket Gold Star replica and am very disappointed with the poor front brake performance.
From reading posts on the subject I've radius'd  the shoes, reversed the brake lever and relieved the trailing shoe by 2/3rds (trailing edge) with some improvement but now must bed in the shoes. Final result to be determined.
In the quest for better braking I managed to pick up the 4 leading shoe front hub from a Suzuki GT 750 Waterbottle.
I know this has been fitted to a BSA using the Suzuki forks, but has anyone fitted this hub to BSA Forks?
Looking at bearing sizes for the Suzuki it looks as if the BSA Spindle could be machined down to fit the bearings without loosing the threaded end of the spindle.
Any comments appreciated.

[muskrat]

G'day Chris  from just over the hill.
What year model is your bike? I'm assuming you wish to use the whole Suzy wheel being a double sided 2LS.
Cheers

Now get over to Introductions and tell us a bit about your interest in A10's.

[RGS Chris]

Thanks Muskrat,

Yes, will lace the hub with a 19in WM2 rim.

Was over your way Sunday, not sure at the moment whether the RGS will make it down the hill into Lithgow at the moment, my boots are worn out trying to stop it at the moment.

[muskrat]

G'day Chris.
Which model forks do you have? Turning down the BSA axle and then if need be make spacers to get it to fit. A bit hard without seeing it. But nothing is impossible. Then there's the problem of a brake plate stay on both sides.

Ha, there's a couple of arrester pads for trucks down the hill. Never tried one on a bike, could be interesting!
Cheers

[RGS Chris]

Having a machine shop it's no problem to turn down the spindle and the brake stay can be mounted from the front mudguard lugs either side, mirror image to right hand side.
Just got to now workout the dimensions for the spindle and spacers.

[Swarfcut]

 Seeing the picture of the bike shows it already has what is considered the best front brake BSA ever had. I was expecting a full width Ariel or cast iron type, both of which perform poorly in comparison.

 There is a wealth of information and debate within the forum, along with the merits of modifying levers, pivots, cams and linings. Worth taking out the shoe pivot and seeing if the mount is slotted. This will enable the shoes to centre, rather than the usually thicker trailing shoe meeting the drum first and preventing full pressure on the leading shoe. Could be something as simple as the wrong type of lining, well set up it will work pretty well.

 Swarfy.

[Greybeard]

Seeing the picture of the bike shows it already has what is considered the best front brake BSA ever had. I was expecting a full width Ariel or cast iron type, both of which perform poorly in comparison.

I agree, my bike has the same brake and it's really good, (for my riding style).

This is RGS Chris's bike for reference:

[RGS Chris]

Swarfy and Neil thanks for your comments.
I have previously checked the forum regarding front brake issues and radius'd the shoes, reversed the brake lever, even removed the trailing edge of the trailing shoe hoping this would make a difference. Only a slightly better brake.

My problem is A) being a newbe as far as Beezers are concerned and B) not knowing where to buy decent shoes from.
The current shoes have a grey colour to them with specs of what appears to be brass flecks embedded.
Who would be a good supplier of shoes?

i centralized the shoes as per instructions and assumed the pivot pin moved since there was a slight movement. I didn't as you suggested check that there was a slot in the plate for the pin to move. Something to check, thanks. I did notice some free play of the face plate whilst assembling the wheel into the forks and wasn't sure if it bolted up square whilst tightening the spindle.
.
Obviously the shoes need to bed in better, maybe then it'll stop better.

[chaterlea25]

Hi Chris,
"Bought" brake shoes for BSA's have never worked for me
I have for a long time had old shoes relined with suitable soft oversize linings and machine the assembly to fit the hubs

John

[RGS Chris]

Thanks John,
That seems to be the only solution, any idea what the lining material is or what it's called?

[chaterlea25]

Hi Chris,
Sorry I don't know the name or spec of the material. The last few I got lined by Villiers services in UK, asking for soft and high friction..
I'm f**ked now because it isn't feasable to get them to do other sets because of the costs due to brexit 

John

[RGS Chris]

Thanks John.

[muskrat]

G'day Chris.
In the early 90's when getting my 57 A7SS ready for racing I took my shoes to the local break & clutch shop. An old fella there asked what I wanted them for and went out the back. He returned and said "this is what you want sonny". He said it was material used on truck transmission brakes. Looked like a course material with copper wire woven through it. They worked really well but did fade a bit after about 6 laps of the Creek. Their still in there 30 years later!
Cheers

[RGS Chris]

Cheers Musky
Back in my Velo days fork lift truck linings were recommended also.
I've just received a new front spindle so I think I'll turn it down to suit the waterbottle hub and see how that pulls the bike up. The shoes in that look good.