Author Topic: Oil pressure connection  (Read 3566 times)

Offline alanp

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Oil pressure connection
« on: 22.10. 2009 16:50 »
Anyone know enough about the area around the pressure relief valve on the timing side engine casing to enable me to tap into the supply system for connecting either an oil line or a sender unit (electric) to run an oil pressure gauge? I'm sure numerous owners have done this, I just hope they're forum contributors!
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Offline A10Boy

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Re: Oil pressure connection
« Reply #1 on: 22.10. 2009 19:56 »
Ive not done this but seen it done.

If you remove the Pressure Relief Valve you can see what you are dealing with in the cases. It should be a simple operation to drill and tap a thread into the oilway behind the valve.
Regards

Andy

1960 A10 - Black Golden Flash
Plus
1974 Kawasaki Z1a
Yam XJR 1300

Online RichardL

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Re: Oil pressure connection
« Reply #2 on: 22.10. 2009 20:57 »
I believe Nigel has done this, as mentioned in the following post. Please wait for others to confirm if this works and is a good idea, because I don't really know.

Richard L.

http://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php/topic,1712.msg11392.html#msg11392
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Online muskrat

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Re: Oil pressure connection
« Reply #3 on: 23.10. 2009 13:50 »
G'day Alanp,
                I have done it. Drilled in from side about 3/8" from inner cover and tapped 1/8" BSP and used a oil pressure gauge kit from local auto store. Runs about 50psi cold and 20psi hot at idle. Will post a pic tomorrow.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, .
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Offline BSA500

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Re: Oil pressure connection
« Reply #4 on: 26.10. 2009 10:29 »
Please do post a pic and how to I have been wanting to do this to my A7 for years *smiley4*

Offline nigeldtr

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Re: Oil pressure connection
« Reply #5 on: 26.10. 2009 11:17 »
Hi,

Here are a couple of pictures of the connection. I actually drilled two holes, the first, larger hole,  was tapped for the union and the second, smaller (I think 2 mm) was drilled at an angle from the bottom of hole 1 to break through the casing below the  bottom of the release valve.

Regards

Nigel
1951 Golden Flash (engine now rebuilt) 1953 M21 a pain to start and 1961 GF that is turning into a black hole!

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Re: Oil pressure connection
« Reply #6 on: 27.10. 2009 11:29 »
G'day alanp, same as Nigel but from the side, as close to the cover as possible. Be careful there isn"t much meat there. Use a good thread sealant cement as it will only be in a few threads, don"t be too heavy with the spanner.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Offline alanp

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Re: Oil pressure connection
« Reply #7 on: 27.10. 2009 12:40 »
I think my rev counter drive is adjacent so I'll have to come in underneath.
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Offline A10Boy

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Re: Oil pressure connection
« Reply #8 on: 27.10. 2009 19:34 »
Nigel

That's a very good update, I wish i had done that during my rebuild.  *smiley4*
Regards

Andy

1960 A10 - Black Golden Flash
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1974 Kawasaki Z1a
Yam XJR 1300

Offline nigeldtr

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Re: Oil pressure connection
« Reply #9 on: 27.10. 2009 20:09 »
Hi Andy,

I actually did this with a hand drill while the engine was in the frames, Just took off the exhaust. I made sure I used a corse thread and as mentioned, thread sealant and only lightly nipped up the union.

I put ?pig tails? in at both ends of the copper pipe to allow it to ?move?.


Regards

Nigel
1951 Golden Flash (engine now rebuilt) 1953 M21 a pain to start and 1961 GF that is turning into a black hole!

Offline alanp

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Re: Oil pressure connection
« Reply #10 on: 27.10. 2009 20:50 »
Nigel, now I'm really curious, could you clarify how you used copper pipe up to the gauge please? How did you cope with the steering lock movement by putting pigtails in the run? I was going to use flexible plastic tube because I didn't think the copper would survive the frequent steering movement and copper loops would not have looked very neat. The next point is that, based on various sources of gauges and fittings, it looked like the thread to tap into the casing needed to be 1/8" NPTF-27tpi., so I have the tap ready. Am I missing something here? Thanks. Alan.
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Offline BSA500

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Re: Oil pressure connection
« Reply #11 on: 29.10. 2009 08:54 »
A couple of questions...
1.What is the adaptor called that screws into the crankcases so I can source one(difficult to do if you are unsure of the correct term).
2.Who sells the above
3.What sizes/thread forms are aviable as I have whitworth/bsf and ba taps.
Demon Tweeks sell made up pipes out of plastic flexi pipe with the fittings you specify for around £7.

Andy

Offline alanp

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Re: Oil pressure connection
« Reply #12 on: 29.10. 2009 11:51 »
Andy, take a look at www.holden.co.uk, they have a section with diagrams to show the parts you need. Actually, you need to start with the type of gauge you are going to use e.g. pipes connecting to Smiths gauges have a flat collar end and a gasket ring to seal with the gauge, others have cones etc. So, having decided on the pipe end fitting you need you can select the pipe and the adaptor to fit into your crank case. I'm going to use 1/8" nptf-27tpi in the case and got the tap and tapping drill (letter Q) from ebay. Personally, I think Smiths gauges with chrome outer ring, black faces and white lettering look best on classic bikes to match the Smiths speedo/rev counter, but watch out as far as I can see at the moment, new gauges described as Smiths don't always have Smiths marked on the face, so I bought an old one on ebay (cheaper by a long way as well).  I'm a way off working on the engine yet, still sorting out the RGS cycle parts, but in preparation I'm looking for info. on where to tap into the oil supply on this post subject. I've almost sorted it out with help from this forum.
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Re: Oil pressure connection
« Reply #13 on: 29.10. 2009 12:51 »
G'day alanp, if you take the OPR valve out you will see it has two threaded sections seperated by a groove with holes. this is where the oil goes when the valve lifts. You need to break into the gallery before the OPR valve. Measure from the washer to the gauze of the OPRV and add a mm. thats where your hole should end up. Measure on the outside from the face that distance (side or under) & drill 2mm hole into the gallery. Measure the depth of hole and subtract 2mm. Drill tapping size to that depth. Tap thread. Most kits are 1/8" nptf nipple and use an olive fitting for the tube.
I am about to re-modify mine with a 1/8" bsp m/fm elbow to bring the tube facing forward. Male nptf will screw into a bsp loosely so use lots of sealer/cement.
hope this helps
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Offline alanp

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Re: Oil pressure connection
« Reply #14 on: 29.10. 2009 16:06 »
Muskrat, yours will be ok with the elbow because you don't have the rev counter drive to stop you going in on the horizontal whereas I have to go in underneath and couldn't 'swing' an elbow around to clear the side of the casing...I think..
I saw one where the owner had somehow screwed an adaptor underneath into the casing and then used a banjo fitting which gave him the freedom to position the banjo outlet to get the pipe horizontal and facing forwards without having to worry about swinging the 90deg elbow around. I can't for the life of me find the bits to do this i.e. a banjo that can take the usual type of gauge pipe ends (yet). Thanks for your interest and keep us posted on any further thoughts. Cheers mate, Alan.
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