You can certainly change the guides yourself, with the right tools, other facilities, (heat) and "how to" skill. Plus a valve reseating kit with the correct grindstones and pilot carrier. It is not simply a case of grinding in the valves as normal. Also every recut removes material from the valve seat, and a pocketed valve is a bit of a disaster. Observe my previous note about alloy heads.
If you want this job done it is better to let the professionals do it, folks doing it for a living will have it sorted in short order.
As an alternative a used iron head and a set of head bolts will get the bike back on the road, leaving attention to your original head to be sorted other than in haste.
As for the clutch, this must be the cursed 6 spring type, with the pressed steel centre. There is as much as you need to know about this already on the Forum. If you can fettle it to take up the drive and not slip, that's good enough.
Lateral support is poor when disengaged, just two ball races close together. Yes the races wear and there will be slop, but when engaged all the clutch elements are supported by the large thick plain plate behind the chainwheel. So as long as you can set it up to work OK, that will do for now. Sooner or later a nice 4 spring jobbie will come your way......it's Sod's Law.
It is certainly a bike with untold mechanical problems, but these are quicker and cheaper to sort out than the more demanding and expensive cosmetic touches which have already been done.
Swarfy
