Author Topic: 57 weld on for A7?  (Read 1144 times)

Offline Frenchy

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57 weld on for A7?
« on: 10.11. 2009 18:23 »
Hi, I just picked up a 59 A7 in a 57 frame.  Does anyone know of a weld on hard tail for such a thing?  I've been trying to get in touch with Lowbrow Customs, but no luck yet.
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1957 A7 bobber, swing arm
Columbus, Ohio, US

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Re: 57 weld on for A7?
« Reply #1 on: 10.11. 2009 18:37 »
G'day Frenchie,
                     Chopping are we. Don't know of a weld on sub frame but check out The General's bike http://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php/topic,1951.msg12543.html#msg12543 He used struts to replace the shocks.
Cheers
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'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, 88 FXST .
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Muskys Plunger A7

Offline beezalex

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Re: 57 weld on for A7?
« Reply #2 on: 10.11. 2009 21:23 »
I think struts should do the job of turning a perfectly well-handling motorcycle into a useless hunk-o junk without all that pesky welding. wink2
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Alex

Too many BSA's


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Re: 57 weld on for A7?
« Reply #3 on: 11.11. 2009 08:34 »
One man's junk another man's treasure. I believe a '57 frame is close to par with a featherbed, and at least with struts it's reversable.
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'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, 88 FXST .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Offline tombeau

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Re: 57 weld on for A7?
« Reply #4 on: 11.11. 2009 10:16 »
Hi Frenchy,

You might do well to try and track down a plunger framed A10/A7 instead.
and make something like this:

http://www.a7a10.net/forum/index.php/topic,578.msg3318.html#msg3318

The plunger A7/A10 is a different motor.  I don't know if  a swing arm motor can be made to fit in there.

imo the pre-unit BSA swing arm frame was the best looking swing arm frame ever. It would be a shame to mess with one to make the bike into something its not. You might regret doing it in later years. I don't have a problem with custom bikes, and have been guilty of making many changes to my bike over the years for the sake of fashion/to annoy purists or to just make it different from other peoples, but I haven't done stuff that can't be undone.
I have seen some great looking bobber/customs A10's that retained their rear suspension.
There are a couple of great period pics of an A10 custom and a flatracker on this link..both with suspension.

http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=283358#Post283358

Cheers and welcome aboard!
Iain

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Offline Frenchy

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Re: 57 weld on for A7?
« Reply #5 on: 11.11. 2009 18:36 »
Nooooo, don't chop a classic!!!! 

Thanks for your replies, fellas.  This is the previous owner's photo.  As you can see, the state in which I bought this bike was already highly modified.  I would be hesitant to chop up a stock classic, too....  The paint is gonna go.  Red and purple?  Geesh.

Also, while I've got your attention, the right side is smoking like mad.  The previous owner had just completed a top end rebuild, 20 over.  Didn't smoke before, but now it does.  This leads me to suspect a cracked ring.  I'm going to take it apart and check it out, but if that is the case does anyone have any advice about rings and possibly pistons?

Furthermore, this forum is fantastic--thanks to everyone taking part. 

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1957 A7 bobber, swing arm
Columbus, Ohio, US

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Re: 57 weld on for A7?
« Reply #6 on: 11.11. 2009 18:52 »
G'day Frenchy,
                    sounds like he broke a ring. Get it down quick before it destroys the bore, it don't take long.
Will take a bit of work to get the paint off the hubs & rims. I kind of like the black rocker box.
Cheers
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'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, 88 FXST .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Offline Rocket Racer

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Re: 57 weld on for A7?
« Reply #7 on: 14.11. 2009 00:50 »
I did consider converting a swapmeets/arm frame into a rigid, but instead have chosen to build a replica frame (based on factory drawings too!), depending what country you are in these are available to buy, but not here, so we're making it and it looks darn good -once again this was a collection of parts we're turning into a special not the loss of a stocker.
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A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
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