Author Topic: Clutch plates ......  (Read 2226 times)

Offline Desburnett

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Clutch plates ......
« on: 17.01. 2010 21:10 »
Having replaced the clutch (5 cork plates, 4 spring Triumph unit) and laid up due to bad weather I found today that the clutch plates had "bonded" together. The primary cover was fitted but I did not fill with any oil. I realise the function of the oil is to lubricate the primary chain but is it in order to oil the clutch plates on assembly or is this asking for clutch slip?

Cheers,

Des

Online Brian

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Re: Clutch plates ......
« Reply #1 on: 17.01. 2010 21:33 »
This is quite a common thing and seems to vary depending on the brand of clutch plates you use. You dont need to oil the plates on assembly.

I only use Surflex plates in my bikes and they dont stick, the bike can sit for a year and the clutch wont need "freeing". Clutch plates are like most things, it pays to buy decent quality ones. Most of the sets you see on evil-bay and similar are junk. Another brand that seems to be popular is Barnett and I have used them but I prefer Surflex.


Offline A10Boy

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Re: Clutch plates ......
« Reply #2 on: 17.01. 2010 21:55 »
Unless you have a semi unit model with a dome over the clutch, the clutch is designed to run in oil.

I don't want to contradict Des, but most people oil the plates on assembly. Also, a lot of people use ATF in the primary case, I always do and have found the clutches to be less sticky than when used with oil.

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Andy

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Offline LJ.

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Re: Clutch plates ......
« Reply #3 on: 17.01. 2010 22:08 »
I've only had clutch plates stick once and that was when I inserted some plain plates that had a light surface rust on them. I fitted them believing them to 'hold' better and not slip so much, it turned out to be disastrous! It seems the bike 'needs' that small amount of slip when letting the clutch out. I have since cleaned them up shiny in the sand blaster and refitted allowing the plates to naturally oil themselves, No problems since. (This was with the Triumph four spring clutch and using new surflex plates)
Ride Safely Lads! LJ.
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Offline BSA500

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Re: Clutch plates ......
« Reply #4 on: 18.01. 2010 11:14 »
Just to add a little note on the use of ATF.When I used it my clutch slipped like a b***h so had to strip and clean to whole unit but everyone else swears by it.

Offline LJ.

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Re: Clutch plates ......
« Reply #5 on: 18.01. 2010 14:14 »
I must admit I did not get on with the automatic transmission fluid, my cases leaked terribly and also had clutch slip problems. I'll stick with my 20/50 in the primary case.
Ride Safely Lads! LJ.
**********************
1940 BSA M20 500cc Girder/Rigid- (SOLD)
1947 BSA M21 600cc Girder/Rigid-Green
1949 BSA A7   500cc Girder/Plunger Star Twin-(SOLD)
1953 BSA B33  500cc Teles/Plunger-Maroon
1961 BSA A10  650cc Golden Flash-Blue
1961 BSA A10  650cc Golden Flash-Red

Online BSA_54A10

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Re: Clutch plates ......
« Reply #6 on: 19.01. 2010 09:22 »
ATF for primary needs to be Dextron ( or type D if you like, or Hydramatic of hydra drive fluid ) and not Ford or type F oil which is different.

The beauty of using ATF is that it is pink so it makes it easier to identify where your bike is leaking from and stops you trying to stop a primary leak which originates in the cases.

Plates binding is very common and it used to be SOP to hold in the clutch & give the bike a couple of swift kicks to free them up before you start the bike ( also primes the carbs )
Bike Beesa
Trevor

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Re: Clutch plates ......
« Reply #7 on: 21.01. 2010 05:51 »
I use 20/50 exclusively in my primary... it's always worked without issue, so I see no need to change.

ATF might be cool for finding the origin of a leak... but who's bike leaks? ;)  So moot point there.

I also pre-oil my drive (cork) plates before assembly, as they run in a small amount of oil anyway, I can't see what it would possibly hurt. Plus it seems that this would offer some protection against glazing upon initial startup.

I second the notion of good plates as well. I use Surflex in my (dry primary) belt drives, but Barnett's have always done well for me in oil. Also MAP Cycle (www.mapcycle.com) makes very nice clutches made to run Wet or Dry, but I'm not sure if they have P.U. setups.

Ryan



Offline Triton Thrasher

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Re: Clutch plates ......
« Reply #8 on: 21.01. 2010 11:26 »
ATF for primary needs to be Dextron ( or type D if you like, or Hydramatic of hydra drive fluid ) and not Ford or type F oil which is different.

Some people say only use type F.

Online bsa-bill

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Re: Clutch plates ......
« Reply #9 on: 21.01. 2010 12:09 »
Sorry this is off topic lads but just had to ask Triton Trasher how long he's going to persist trying to start that thing, been almost a year now and it he's still kicking it over, must have a right leg like a tree trunk by now  *respect* *smiley4* *smiley4* *smiley4*

Al the best - Bill

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Offline mike667

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Re: Clutch plates ......
« Reply #10 on: 21.01. 2010 13:22 »
Sorry this is off topic lads but just had to ask Triton Trasher how long he's going to persist trying to start that thing, been almost a year now and it he's still kicking it over, must have a right leg like a tree trunk by now  *respect* *smiley4* *smiley4* *smiley4*

Al the best - Bill



haha thats good!

Offline Triton Thrasher

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Re: Clutch plates ......
« Reply #11 on: 21.01. 2010 19:49 »
Sorry this is off topic lads but just had to ask Triton Trasher how long he's going to persist trying to start that thing, been almost a year now and it he's still kicking it over, must have a right leg like a tree trunk by now  *respect* *smiley4* *smiley4* *smiley4*

Al the best - Bill



It's not really me!  I leeched it of a Canadian Facebook.

Do you think it's the condenser?