Author Topic: slick 50  (Read 3036 times)

Offline mrshells

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slick 50
« on: 10.02. 2010 19:30 »
I know if we build our motors correctly service them properly and treat them with much respect they should really last all most forever
but has anyone tried slick 50 in their Bike ?

Online chaterlea25

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Re: slick 50
« Reply #1 on: 10.02. 2010 20:10 »
HI mrshells and All
In my experience "Slick 50" type products are best avoided *ex* *ex*
I have found that they are sooo goooey! that they will block the mesh filters in oiltanks and sumps
Also if an engine has needle roller bearings the goo coats the needles and interferes with the fine tolerances leading to rapid failure *sad2* *sad2* *sad2*

Regards
John O R
1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Offline mrshells

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Re: slick 50
« Reply #2 on: 10.02. 2010 21:47 »
I did a youtube search
and surprisingly every manufacturer of a similar product has the same test showing that theirs is the best  *conf*

Offline coater87

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Re: slick 50
« Reply #3 on: 11.02. 2010 01:21 »


 Does anyone here remember some stuff called "motor honey"? This was a "fix all" for old, tired motors. All you did was pour this goop into your engine, and it immediately quieted things down. And it actually worked, kind of....! Turns out, all it was was 80-90 weight gear lube. It raised the viscosity of the oil because it was so thick.

 Suddenly you had- quiet mains, less valve train noise, more oil pressure, and increased compression and it slowed down oil leaks. Until the engine got good and warm. Then you had nothing.

 But unscrupulous auto dealers bought this stuff by the 50 gallon drum in the 70s.

 These are the same guys who also packed the rear differential full of sawdust because it stopped the whining noise a limited slip made right before it went "boom".

 There is no "cure in a bottle" for an engine, no gunk in the world is going to magically fix warn out parts.  Brand new oil used often is the best medicine, and lots cheaper then a rebuild (or slick 50).

 Lee
Central Wisconsin in the U.S.

Online muskrat

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Re: slick 50
« Reply #4 on: 11.02. 2010 01:26 »
G'day all,
            I've only heard 1 good report but that was in a tractor. Down here we have a product called Nulon, which is a teflon additive. I swear by it, have used it in every motor/gearbox/diff for 20 years. It reduces friction hence less wear/heat. Motors rev out quicker and gear shifts a lot smoother. Do not use in new motors for the first 2 oil changes and bike motors with a wet clutch.
If it mixed with rum I'd drink it.
Cheers
            
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, 88 FXST .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Online orabanda

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Re: slick 50
« Reply #5 on: 11.02. 2010 01:58 »
I remember looking to squeeze every extra bit of power out of a PE400, (which had more power than I could handle anyway), and reaching the conclusion that Slick 50 (the "friction eliminator") would be great in the gearbox.

It proved to be a tremendous friction eliminator: no drive - my clutch would'nt work!

One expensive set of plates later, back to original oil, and there wasn't a Yamaha that could catch me!





Richard

Offline mrshells

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Re: slick 50
« Reply #6 on: 11.02. 2010 19:59 »
Muskrat
I can get Nulon over here
I like one of there more popular titled products "start ya BASTARD "
Orabanda I wish I had that PE Suzuki a proper classic smoker !!! and a class machine of its day

Online muskrat

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Re: slick 50
« Reply #7 on: 11.02. 2010 20:53 »
G'day Mrshells,
                    I haven't found any of their products that didn't work. The starter spray is aptly named. Back when I was an apprentice f/m a fellow (the developer) came to the tech and asked us to test his product. The mechanics class pulled an old 186" Holden motor to rebuild. My f/m class did all the machining (bore,valves,crank) and reassembled. The motor was run in for 10 hours with 2 oil changes, then another 5 hours with the additive. The oil was drained and motor ran dry for 2 hours before the big ends nipped up.
I ran the nulon g/box additive in the A7 racer for 8 years (flat out changes, no clutch) and now it's in the cafe.
Richard, I had one of those. A real weapon, no one stayed on for more than 15 minutes.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, 88 FXST .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Online Brian

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Re: slick 50
« Reply #8 on: 17.02. 2010 08:30 »
I have used Nulon in the diff of my Guzzi from new, its now done 85,000 and no problems.

Richard does bring up a point worth noting. Those of you (including me) that use engine oil in the primary drive need to make sure it is a motorcycle specific oil, most car engine oils have friction modifiers in them and can cause clutch slip.

As for PE 400's, ok but real men rode RM's, 250's and 370's.

Online orabanda

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Re: slick 50
« Reply #9 on: 17.02. 2010 09:43 »
Brian!

RM's are for pansies and other shelias!

Hulks like me would ride DT360's!





Here teamed with Mario (now riding 55 Gold Flash, YZ360B [pass the nappies!], CR480, XL250 Motosport), before scoring 2nd place overall in 1982 Pony Express)







We teamed up again next year, and scored SFA and a busted bike (thanks Mario!!).

Richard







Online Brian

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Re: slick 50
« Reply #10 on: 17.02. 2010 10:15 »
Some of those early japanese bikes where animals to ride but the craziest thing I ever had was a Montesa Cappra 250, 1974 model. Faster than any 500cc japanese bike at the time but you had to be a nutcase to ride one (thats me!) It was all or nothing, may as well of had a switch instead of a throttle. Very unreliable but if you could get it to go it was like nothing you had ever ridden before.

At this point we are both probably going to get into trouble for straying way off topic !!  Sorry E, grovel, grovel, grovel.