Author Topic: Constant oil leak?  (Read 3685 times)

Offline wardleybob

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Re: Constant oil leak?
« Reply #15 on: 04.11. 2012 11:20 »
hy I have a anty drain valve you can have free I onece had one stick never again If my bike is standing for a week or two I simply drain the oil threw a bolt Itaped In the sump

Offline stu.andrews

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Re: Constant oil leak?
« Reply #16 on: 05.11. 2012 12:22 »
SRM do a sump plate with convenient drain bolt. 5 minutes to drain the excess in the sump & return it to the oil tank.
The previous owner of my A7 had an anti-sumping valve which stuck shut & wrecked the bottom end.
Don't go down that route!
2010 Yamaha TDM 900-Touring
2012 Triumph Bonneville SE-Fun


Offline cyclobutch

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Re: Constant oil leak?
« Reply #17 on: 05.11. 2012 15:27 »
Folks - I think maybe Wardleybob has opened up some historic train of thought here. I'd hope the original issue has long since been addressed.
Various, including ...
'58 Iron Head Flash Bitza


Offline wilko

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Re: Constant oil leak?
« Reply #18 on: 05.11. 2012 22:07 »
And please, no one starts going on about oil thickness! Once your oil is hot it will leak just the same.

Online BSA_54A10

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Re: Constant oil leak?
« Reply #19 on: 06.11. 2012 06:30 »
Wash your bike thoroughly then dry it.
Spray some WD 40 all around the oil tank, oil lines and sump.
While still wet liberally dust the wet WD 40 with talcum powder ( I won'r recommend concrete dust again although it is better ).
Come back a week latter and the origins of the oil leak will be most obvious
Bike Beesa
Trevor

Offline duTch

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Re: Constant oil leak?
« Reply #20 on: 06.11. 2012 09:31 »

Good one Trev, means my Concreting days are over
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia

Offline shuswapkev

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Re: Constant oil leak?
« Reply #21 on: 06.11. 2012 22:51 »

 for oil sealing... i have stopped using paper gaskets...surfaced all joining surfaces on a cast iron table...recessed the threads (they always seem to stick out a bit)..and assembled with loctite 518...similar to yamabond...and..the oil stays .. inside.. loctite 518 makes taking apart very easy...just looks like candle wax... i was using the paper bits..but whether they were in or not in didn,t make any difference..so...why bother...this is on a 69 a65... 50 matchless g/80...  46 b31...and a 76 e-glide...95 dyna..honda posty bike..and a bunch of other unmentionables...works real good... the loctite goo costs way too much...but lasts forever...well...a long time...
 the only problem..is with no oil blowing out...i live in queensland, a few miles from a surf beach...is the problem of creeping rust...
but i have solved that too.... i spray or wipe some oil over the bare iron bits... ...

the only thing i use siliy con on is tin primarys...cut a bit of melamine to fit neat inside the outer...then wipe contact areas on melamine with grease... get some better quality silly con... from a commercial glass place...not a builders yard.. there is a big difference...and it costs more... then grease up both sides of the tin cover...screw together..melamine in between...next morn you will have 2 flat  smooth surfaces.. mine will hold oil for months... some does ecape..think thru the drive hole...