Author Topic: Ignition switch/barrel  (Read 5797 times)

Offline olev

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Re: Ignition switch/barrel
« Reply #30 on: 30.03. 2010 01:44 »
Iv'e been explaining ohms law in just this fashion to 16 yo apprentices for 40 years so apologise if the tone sounded condesending.
The only reason for the second long winded post was the mention of the wire catching fire rather than the joint.
I for one hope you will reconsider as you have been on my short list for information on jetting a mikuni for my A7 (when it gets there) as well as being an absolute asset to the forum.

I think you should 'point fingers'. I think you should 'track the offence'
It is not a piddling matter when a member leaves due to anothers posts.
It's unacceptable.
I know I'm not beyond offending people with my style.
In this case I still don't know what I did wrong and won't learn otherwise.
Don't pussy foot around tell it like it is.

btw. I genuinely love the style of your english.   -  even if its offensive and untrue.
<The nonsense being flaunting the colorful plumage of theory to show who has the biggest fuse>

I won't be commenting on this subject again

Online Brian

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Re: Ignition switch/barrel
« Reply #31 on: 30.03. 2010 05:36 »
Richard, please reconsider your position on this, you are a valued member of this forum.

With so many of us and so many bikes involved it is inevitable that occasionaly we will have differences of opinion on some subjects but I am sure no one meant any malice.

I didnt join in this particular discussion as I know absolutely bugger all about electrical theory, I have wired dozens of bikes and they all worked so I must have done something right but ohms and resistance etc is beyond me.

At the end of the day, and this applies to us all, if your bike goes ok and you enjoy riding it and working on it then thats all that matters.

Online RichardL

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Re: Ignition switch/barrel
« Reply #32 on: 30.03. 2010 06:54 »
I didn't mean to say that any "flaunting" was happening intentionally or unintentionally, but it is open to interpretation. If you are one of the mathmeticians generously offering problem solutions, please accept my apologies if you were offended by my little metaphor, as I weigh you all as friends.

I was going to relate a story of a good friend who is habitially didactic (from Webster's, definition #3: too much inclined to teach others), but I think I should just leave it alone and move on.  

Keep teaching and I'll try to keep learning and the result should be, aside from comradery, an A10 in my garage that runs great and is a gas to ride.

Richard L.
Plan on signing up for the world-wide 2020 DISTINGUISHED GENTLEMAN'S RIDEon September 27, 2020. This year it's a solo or pillion ride in dapper attire. Watch website at for details.

Offline Caretaker

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Re: Ignition switch/barrel
« Reply #33 on: 30.03. 2010 09:51 »
We should all be flogged with a stick of rhubarb and hang our heads in shame.
 *lol*  *smile*
I hope things can be sorted out and nobody leaves (I'l maybe try to move some of this to members chat, while keeping content relevant to Mosin's initial request for help).

"Sometimes I say things that are so highly intelligent that I do not understand a word of it"

Offline Mosin

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Re: Ignition switch/barrel
« Reply #34 on: 30.03. 2010 20:24 »

*whispers nervously* So how big a fuse do I need?
1960 A7 Shooting Star
1959 D3 Bantam
1994 Triumph Trident 900

North West England

Online muskrat

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Re: Ignition switch/barrel
« Reply #35 on: 30.03. 2010 21:04 »
Mosin, 15 should be ample. Don't tell anyone I said that.
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, 88 FXST .
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Online chaterlea25

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Re: Ignition switch/barrel
« Reply #36 on: 30.03. 2010 22:03 »
If anything I said offended you
All I can say is that there was no malice intende on my behalf and I truly apologise
I was trying to explain what was asked initially
John O R
1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Offline a10gf

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Re: Ignition switch/barrel
« Reply #37 on: 31.03. 2010 00:12 »
So how big a fuse do I need?

A clamp (clamp-on) amperemeter  is a fine tool, let's one check drain or charge with system in use, without disconnecting anything. Even the most inexpensive ones are more than accurate enough for car\bike work, and they work as basic multimeter as well, with volts & ohm.

Check charging, current drain, reading the current drain (A) under normal load = easily choose a suitable fuse value, etc.

Picture2, current shown = main lights on (6v system), brakelight adds 3 A, + horn some more A's, so in my case a 15 Amp battery fuse would be right (have a 10 A that have been working so far).

Also fine to check charging current with dynamo running, help trace battery discharging causes etc.
Basically does the same kind of job as the bike's own ammeter, but as it can be clamped around any cable anywhere it's very useful.

A10 GF '53 My A10 website
"Success only gets you a ticket to a much more difficult task"