Author Topic: Steering head  (Read 2439 times)

Offline Russ

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Steering head
« on: 20.05. 2010 05:05 »
Hi all,
It has been said on this forum that there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers, so I thought I would put that theory to the test again.
I am dismantling the steering head on my 51 A10 and am not sure how to remove the Screwed Collar on the bottom yoke.  Is it screwed out or do I reach for a bigger hammer and knock it out? I want to remove the anchor plate, star washer etc to re-chrome them.  Also, according to the Haynes Service Manual, the 1/4 inch ball bearings should not completly fill the Ball Bearing Track.  That is to say, leave space for a theoretical insertion of 1 extra ball which is to prevent binding of the steering. Is this the normal accepted pratice by those of you who know what you are doing?

Cheers
Russ in OZ
1951 A10 Plunger.
Australia

Offline LJ.

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Re: Steering head
« Reply #1 on: 20.05. 2010 08:07 »
At the risk of hijacking Russes thread, I'd like to know how to grease the darn thing! Later... dunno about earlier, models have no grease nipples. I favour a nice tightish well greased steering head although I guess being able to grease the head could bring problems to the steering damper as I know on the M20 frame, that has a lower greasing nipple, grease can eventually find its way between the damper plates rendering them useless. I wonder if anyone has drilled, tapped and fitted a grease nipple here at all?
Ride Safely Lads! LJ.
**********************
1940 BSA M20 500cc Girder/Rigid- (SOLD)
1947 BSA M21 600cc Girder/Rigid-Green
1949 BSA A7   500cc Girder/Plunger Star Twin-(SOLD)
1953 BSA B33  500cc Teles/Plunger-Maroon
1961 BSA A10  650cc Golden Flash-Blue
1961 BSA A10  650cc Golden Flash-Red

Online bsa-bill

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Re: Steering head
« Reply #2 on: 20.05. 2010 09:20 »
There is a grease nipple on my 61 Flash but to be honest I don't use it, the amount of grease needed to reach the bearings top and bottom is huge ( it has to fill the entire headstock tube).
If you pack the bearings when you fit them that will be enough, these are not bearings working in/on hot areas/constantly rotating or subject to much in the way of stress, the occasional turn of the handle bars will redistribute the grease in there around the balls.

BTW hot areas - I'm in the UK, in hot climes you might want to put high melting point in there.

All the best - Bill
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco

Offline Russ

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Re: Steering head
« Reply #3 on: 20.05. 2010 09:47 »
My 51 A10 has a grease nipple on the bottom right side which I presume is to supply grease to the lower bearings, but I agree with bsa-Bill, I don't see the need for it.
Returning to my original post, can anyone help me with removing the Screwed Collar from the bottom yoke and the issue of how many ball bearings to fit in the bearing cups.
Thanks all.

Russ
1951 A10 Plunger.
Australia

Online Brian

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Re: Steering head
« Reply #4 on: 20.05. 2010 10:48 »
Russ I am not sure what you mean by "screwed collar" on the bottom yoke. The bearing cone that goes down the bottom is just pressed on and can be tapped off. If you mean the collar up the top then that screws off.  With the bearings I think the races take twenty balls but I am not 100% sure, when they are all in the cup it should look like one ball is missing.

Offline Russ

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Re: Steering head
« Reply #5 on: 20.05. 2010 11:25 »
Thanks Brian
The Screwed Collar I referred to is a term used in a service manual for the centre cone which holds the bottom anchor plate and star washer in place. It does appear that I should be able to knock it out through the head stem tube so I will give it a go.  Thanks for the info regarding the bearings. When I took mine apart the bearing cups were full but I will leave 1 out when I put it back together.

Cheers
Russ
1951 A10 Plunger.
Australia

Online Brian

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Re: Steering head
« Reply #6 on: 20.05. 2010 11:40 »
I think I am with you now Russ, if its the bit that the threaded rod that is fixed to the steering damper knob screws into then it should just come out. With the bearings I just had a look in the parts book and it says 20 balls.

Offline Russ

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Re: Steering head
« Reply #7 on: 20.05. 2010 12:09 »
Thanks Brian you have solved my problems.

Cheers Russ
1951 A10 Plunger.
Australia

Offline Riderusty

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Re: Steering head
« Reply #8 on: 20.05. 2010 22:55 »
Russ, in  answer to your question on leaving a space equal to a single ball bearing, my understanding of this is to permit free rotation of the balls within the races. If they were packed in with no space, the may have a tendency to slide rather than roll, causing galling and wear to the races. Anyhow, that's the logic I was taught long ago.

Best,
Tom B.
1953 BSA A7 Plunger-under resto.
1962 BSA B40 -awaiting resto.
1968 BSA A65-restored
1959 BMW R50-restored

Offline a101960

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Re: Steering head
« Reply #9 on: 21.05. 2010 23:06 »
The sensible long term solution is to fit taper roller bearings  *smile*

John

Offline Big Nick

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Re: Steering head
« Reply #10 on: 23.05. 2010 09:16 »
yep srm sell them !
1932 500cc rudge
1936 500cc cotton pyton
1952 M20 with B31 motor
1952 Plunger A10
1954 New Hudson Autocycle
1962 A10
1982 BMW R100

Online muskrat

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Re: Steering head
« Reply #11 on: 23.05. 2010 13:22 »
Hay Nick, I just noticed you must have the worlds oldest BMW a 1882 model !!! *smile*
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, 88 FXST .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Offline Big Nick

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Re: Steering head
« Reply #12 on: 26.05. 2010 19:45 »
well spotted that man !
1932 500cc rudge
1936 500cc cotton pyton
1952 M20 with B31 motor
1952 Plunger A10
1954 New Hudson Autocycle
1962 A10
1982 BMW R100