Author Topic: A10 main bearing quality  (Read 4461 times)

Online bsa-bill

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Re: A10 main bearing quality
« Reply #15 on: 29.07. 2010 12:56 »
Thanks for the Tel No Goldy, I did know there was someone who made cables up (think I read about them in a mag) but did not have a contact, I do need a spare back and front brake cable.
Your right MG, I'll see if I can shift it tonight
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco

Offline MG

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Re: A10 main bearing quality
« Reply #16 on: 29.07. 2010 13:35 »
That would be great, Bill.
If we collect all the good sources in the thread, we'll hopefully end up with a great database for quality suppliers.
1955 A7 Shooting Star
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Offline A10Boy

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Re: A10 main bearing quality
« Reply #17 on: 29.07. 2010 14:03 »
With ebay, you just need to use common sense.

If you want some pistons and see a set of a10 Hepolite pistons, new old stock in original packaging, that the seller has had in his workshop for 30 years, and hes got good feedback you can be pretty sure they are pukka. I've bought and sold stuff like that with no problems.

However, the problems do arise with new made stuff, I ordered a [cheap] front brake cable from a well known supplier, when it turned up I was shocked to see it had "cast on" nipples made of some alloy sh1te. It went in the bin and I ordered one from JJ - lesson learnt.

As far as bearings and suchlike are concerned, i dont think it's worth the risk of buying cheap unbranded stuff when the consequences of failure could be disasterous.

I know of someone who bought a brilliant LJ Crankshaft from ebay - although the seller was a gentleman of the highest moral fiber and character.  *smile*
Regards

Andy

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1974 Kawasaki Z1a
Yam XJR 1300

Offline MG

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Re: A10 main bearing quality
« Reply #18 on: 29.07. 2010 14:13 »
Quote
I know of someone who bought a brilliant LJ Crankshaft from ebay - although the seller was a gentleman of the highest moral fiber and character.  

Yep. You think I should I add his data to the "good suppliers" thread?  *lol*
1955 A7 Shooting Star
1956 A10 Golden Flash
1961 Matchless G12 CSR

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Online bsa-bill

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Re: A10 main bearing quality
« Reply #19 on: 29.07. 2010 14:38 »
Look out there's a nod and a wink about
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco

Offline A10Boy

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Re: A10 main bearing quality
« Reply #20 on: 29.07. 2010 16:06 »
 Modesty forbids...  *red*

Ohh and there was a nice camshaft that went to a gent in scotland recently........
Regards

Andy

1960 A10 - Black Golden Flash
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1974 Kawasaki Z1a
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Offline MG

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Re: A10 main bearing quality
« Reply #21 on: 06.08. 2010 10:11 »
I received my parts from SRM today (well, everything except the con-rods, but at least I can start work on the bottom end now).

The roller bearing they sent me is a Japanese NTN NF206E. The suffix E makes it a high load capacity version with increased roller diameter.
So far so good, but what I'm not completely happy with is the resin roller cage. The picture on the SRM website to me clearly looks like a brass cage, but judge for yourself:
http://www.srmclassicbikes.com/catalogue/index.php?target=products&product_id=138

I am not saying that a plastic cage is not going to work, assuming it is temperature-stable and oil-resistant, but just thought I'd mention it, as I think a picture is part of an item's description and you should get what you see in the end.
1955 A7 Shooting Star
1956 A10 Golden Flash
1961 Matchless G12 CSR

www.histo-tech.at - Restoration, Repairs, Racing

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Online bsa-bill

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Re: A10 main bearing quality
« Reply #22 on: 06.08. 2010 10:50 »
Also says USA if I'm not mistaken MG, but most are plastic these days and they seem ok, they would probably take it back but then you would just be adding return postage to the cost of the item.

Andy - sorry I meant to reply, item as described, positive feedback left and now residing in it's new home
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco

Online orabanda

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Re: A10 main bearing quality
« Reply #23 on: 06.08. 2010 13:45 »
A very nice feature of the resin (plastic?) roller retainer cage, is that it makes the task of setting the crankshaft end float very easy.

This is because the rollers can be popped out from the retaining cage one by one, leaving the inner bearing race on the crankshaft. In the next step, a standard split bearing puller can be placed around the inner race, and it can be pulled off easily, without any damage.

Finally, the bearing can be re-assembled by putting the cage back in position, and popping the rollers back in place.

I have just set up an A10 bottom end this week, using the SRM bearing;a sometimes difficult task has never been easier!

I also had the crankcase halves set up in a lathe  for the line boring of the bronze outer / white metal inner timing bush, (after making a supporting fixture from an aluminium bellhousing) and am rapt in the final result; bottom end is perfectly aligned and spins like a top, with 0.0015 " clearance between journal and bush.

Other point of note is that I could measure a bit of ovality in the bore for the bushing, in RH crankcase half. I checked the bore because the old bush would slide in from one side, but had an interference fit on the other.

I asked the machinist to bore out the crankcase half, until it cleaned up; it took 0.012" to clean up (concentricity!).
In the future I will adopt this practice always, as clearly ovality is likely to be an issue in old crank case halves.

I then machined up a timing bush from phosphor bronze (had a billet lying around) and sized it to give 0.002" interference on the crankcase. Then I poured babbit (white)  metal on the inside, left a couple of mm undersize on the bore, and shrunk into the crankcase.

The bronze is a better choice than steel, because the co-efficents of expansion are much closer between aluminium and bronze, than for Al and mild steel.
Therefore, it is more likely to maintain an intereference fit (and consequently maximum oil pressure!) when the engine is hot.

By machining in the lathe, we were able to clock perfectly on the primary drive bearing recess, then bolt up the RH half, and machine the timing bush in line.

Richard

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Re: A10 main bearing quality
« Reply #24 on: 06.08. 2010 13:59 »
G'day Richard,
                        I'll give you your 1st karma for that.
I remember using a bearing like that years ago and did the same.
But I've never checked for ovality in the case/bush bore. I will in future.
Cheers
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Online orabanda

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Re: A10 main bearing quality
« Reply #25 on: 06.08. 2010 14:32 »
Muskrat,
Your'e sweet!
A few pics to complement explanation above:



LH crankcase bolted to bellhousing. This was then clocked in lathe, to priary drive bearing



Once aligned, RH half bolted on and then line bored

Prior to this, original bore machined until it was round again. Here it is with the new bush installed.



Here is new bush (pb outside, white metal inside), machined to be oversize on re-bored crancase



Another pic of installed bush



Richard


Offline MG

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Re: A10 main bearing quality
« Reply #26 on: 06.08. 2010 17:15 »
Richard, great idea to remove the rollers for pulling the race off, and nice work with your crankcases!  wink2
1955 A7 Shooting Star
1956 A10 Golden Flash
1961 Matchless G12 CSR

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Offline iansoady

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Re: A10 main bearing quality
« Reply #27 on: 06.08. 2010 17:26 »
Nice job.

I might struggle to do that on my 3.5" Granville.......
Ian.
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Online RichardL

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Re: A10 main bearing quality
« Reply #28 on: 06.08. 2010 17:30 »
Richard,

A quick question: What assures the poured-in babbit adheres to the phosphor bronze?
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Offline MG

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Re: A10 main bearing quality
« Reply #29 on: 06.08. 2010 17:48 »
Usually you would tin the inside of the bush prior to casting the babbit into the pre-heated bush. This makes sure it will adhere properly.
Of course I don't know how Richard (orabanda) did it, but from what I've seen of his work so far, I'm sure he did it properly  *smile*.
1955 A7 Shooting Star
1956 A10 Golden Flash
1961 Matchless G12 CSR

www.histo-tech.at - Restoration, Repairs, Racing

Austria