1960 A10 Golden Flash

[Beaky]

Been restoring the above for what seems like most of my life. Just need a few pieces of information if anyone can help please. Where should the oil level be in the oil tank, Handbook says 5 1/2 gals which is fine if you are filling from empty.
What is the position of transfers on the toolbox, oil tank and back mudguard.
How can I get a realistic value so that I can insure the vehicle.
Any help is most welcome.
Thanks in advance.

[A10Boy]

Hello and welcome.

I have seen various levels of transfers on the oil tank, mine is 3 inches down from the top and is about right. BTW, its not 5 1/2 Gals   

Any good restored flash will be worth anything between £3000 - £4000, just tell them its worth £5K

cheers

[lawnmowerman]

Beaky, are you in the UK? I use Footman James for my insurance and they are happy with a self declared agreed value providing you fill in the forms confirming condition and you may have to send some photos. I think the max value is £5k - any higher and you need a valuation from someone like a motorcycle dealer or VMCC. I tried the BSAOC but they could not help.

Look forward to seeing some pics.

Jim

[Goldy]

Carole Nash also does agreed value, send four photos, one from each side and description of condition and as others have said that in restored condition should have an insurance value of about £5000.

[Beaky]

Carole Nash also does agreed value, send four photos, one from each side and description of condition and as others have said that in restored condition should have an insurance value of about £5000.

Thanks Goldy. Struggling to work out how to use this site though.
Beaky

[Beaky]

Hello and welcome.

I have seen various levels of transfers on the oil tank, mine is 3 inches down from the top and is about right. BTW, its not 5 1/2 Gals   

Any good restored flash will be worth anything between £3000 - £4000, just tell them its worth £5K

cheers

Hi A10 Boy-yes ntoiced my error. Clearly should be  pints not gals. Thanks for the inf.
Beaky

[Beaky]

Beaky, are you in the UK? I use Footman James for my insurance and they are happy with a self declared agreed value providing you fill in the forms confirming condition and you may have to send some photos. I think the max value is £5k - any higher and you need a valuation from someone like a motorcycle dealer or VMCC. I tried the BSAOC but they could not help.

Look forward to seeing some pics.

Jim

Thanks Jim- think I am slowly getting there!! Yes Live in North Yorks. Appreciate your advice.
Beaky

[BSA_54A10]

Oil level is about the first knuckle on your index finger.
To fit your decals put the bike on its wheels, not on the stand or they will look like it is drunk.
Some even put some weight on the saddle so that they will look straight when they are riding on them.
Oil tank & tool box decals go in the middle.
Rear guard decals go ;-
Crossed rifles about 1/2 " from the end of the tail lamp.
Golden flash decal went under the number plate & was fitted by the dealers as plates were different sizes.
On bikes with square plates they look best at the very bottom of the plate holder but on bikes with a short rectangular plate they look best in the middle of the space between the bottom of the plate & the bottom of the bracket.

If you use water slide put some masking tape in a square around where it was going the mark a cross from one side of the tape across the decal backing paper to the other piece of tape.
Leave about 2" free space all round to give your self some working room.

If you are using self adheasives mark out the same.
Put about 2 drops of dish washing detergent in a water spray bottle and spray the area where you want the decal to go.
Put the decal on top of the water and you will be able to position it very accurately without it sticking to the surface and stretching out of shape when you try to pull it off to reposition it.
when you are adsolutely happy with the position, put your finger firmly in the middle and work the water out.
On small decals I use a wet soft pencil eraser. On big ones I use a squeegie.
It may sound dickie but this it how the pros do complete cars and shop fronts and get the bits to align properly.