Fixing transfers

[a101960]

I have purchased new transfers for my oil tank. The BSA logo currently on the tank is one of the sticker type and it is damaged and needs replacing. The oil level transfer was not on the tank when I bought the bike. First of all would it be best to remove the oil tank from the bike in order to lay it flat when fixing the new transfers or can it be done with the tank still in situ? The new BSA logo transfer is the type that requires fixing with varnish, and the oil level transfer is of the water slide variety. Once the transfers are fixed in place what is the best way to protect them? Should I apply a lacquer coat over the whole tank or will varnish applied to the top side of the transfer do the job?

John

[RoadRunner]

Hi John,
I've just applied the 'Minimum Oil Level' transfer (water slide type) to the oil tank and the BSA coat of arms to the tool box - I did this with both pieces in place. However I did take the oil tank off just to keep it in a dry room. If you smooth the transfer out and dab it v.gently to remove excess water it should stay in place - mine did.
As for fixing - my instructions recommend clear (white spirit based) brushed varnish and then use 2k Laquer (two pack variety) - apparently single pack acrylic sprays or clear cellulose causes the transfer to shrink! But the two pack stuff is fairly toxic I understand - getting a bodyshop to do mine. You can get 2k packs for less than £20 apparently if you search the web but for around £50 its worth getting it done properly, no mess and still healthy (apart from wallet).
Got my transfers from the VMCC in Burton upon Trent.
Hope this helps - RR

[a101960]

RR
Cheers that is a great help. That is exactly what I wanted to know.

John

[BSA_54A10]

Before you remove the tank mark a line horizontal with the bike on its wheels.
Use this as a reference base line or it will look like you had a few pints too many you put the transfers on

[magicflem]

I have found just fixing water slide transfers with soaked and with a damp tissue works well. no need to over coat with clear as originals from factory were not clear coated.

[bsa-bill]

well done magicflem I'm in full 100% agreement, I have come to the point of not answering posts that ask how to clearcoat transfers as they seem to fall on deaf ears.
Perhaps there were two different types, I don't know but the ones I use need nothing as there is a varnish already on the transfer that sets as it dries.
Anyone who has tried to remove an original or GOOD waterslide transfer will know how good they are and hard to remove.
Also if anyone can't get there head around a water based varnish they need reminded that a lot if not most auto paint sprayed these days is water based

OK I feel better now

[a101960]

I have come to the point of not answering posts that ask how to clearcoat transfers as they seem to fall on deaf ears.

Bill,

Clearly you have an advantage over me. I was totally unaware that water slide transfers were endowed with these characteristics. I can only relate to my own experience. The water slide piled arms transfer on my rear number plate has not survived the wear and tear of everyday usage at all well. It has never been subjected to anything more than a light dab with the cleaning cloth, and yet it started to fragment almost immediately. Please explain what I am doing wrong.

John

[RoadRunner]

  I think there must at least two types of water slide transfers judging by the posts so far. Being a total novice of rebuilding BSA's I've have no prior experince of applying such transfers until now. Unusually for me I've read the instructions supplied with them so I think I'll go that route rather than risk them falling apart on seeing rain. Perhaps Bill would be kind enough to divulge where he obtains his transfers from - it would save me and others a lot of time and cash. Will keep readers posted on how it goes. 

RR

[trevinoz]

I think you will find that the original factory transfers were gold size type.
A real pain to apply. At least for me!
Trev.

[bsa-bill]

Goto agree folks there is a difference in some of these transfers ( was down the shed this morning to stow the Flash away whilst on holiday and noticed the toolbox transfer on the RGF is flaking at the side - serves me right for shooting from the hip).the other one on the oil tank is fine
Due to mishaps in the paintshop (poly tent in garage) I have quite a stock of the piles arms purchased mainly from C&D, BSAOC, and Classic transfers over the years, C&D goto lengths to get the right stuff, the last ones I bought were from that place that starts with E and sometimes ends with expletives but on this occasion the transfers were/are good, allegedly from the firm that supplied BSA.

Don't think I can tell you much other than is on the instructions that come with the transfer, possible the big thing is not getting them oversoaked, wait for them to curl then as they flatten out get them out and on as soon as they start to slide on the backing sheet

[RoadRunner]

Finally varnished the transfers with Humbrol Clear Varnish used for Airfix model kits at great cost of £1.45 then had them covered with 2 coat clear laquer from a local bodyshop - look really, really good once polished. Will post some pics once on the bike.

RR

[BSA_54A10]

After fixing the water slide to a surface you must wash the residue from the outside or it will go hard, shrink and cause the transfer to crack.

So you pop it in water ( slightly tepid is best )
apply the transfer to the spot where it is to go.
Rub all of the air bubbles out from underneath.
then with warm water & detergent, dab the transfer from the center outwards using a soft ( and I mean really soft ) cloth.
Finally rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Allow to dry slowly in the shade then wash again just to be sure that there is no glue remaining on the outside of the transfer.