Author Topic: BSA / Ariel hubs  (Read 3149 times)

Offline 60 blue flash

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BSA / Ariel hubs
« on: 29.10. 2010 19:11 »
Hi Guys,

I have a 1957 BSA from the B range with the BSA/Ariel alloy hubs as fitted to the twins of the era. My question is what type of finish should the hubs and brake plates have? as most i have seem to be polished while others have been blasted with various types of sand/glass/ beads etc.

Trev

1960  Golden Flash
1957  B33
1963  Velocette Metisse
1961  Velocette Venom
1960  Velocette Venom (my dads bike since 1962)
1959  Velocette Venom
1953  Matchless G3LC
1949  Triumph  5T
1949  Matchless  G80
1946  Matchless  G3
1936  AJS 36/26
1930  Douglas  S6
1929  AJS Model 9

Offline Goldy

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Re: BSA / Ariel hubs
« Reply #1 on: 29.10. 2010 19:15 »
Mine are polished and all the ones I have seen have been polished.
56 A10 Golden Flash - Restore, ride, relive.                                          
56 C12 BSA project ongoing

Offline MG

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Re: BSA / Ariel hubs
« Reply #2 on: 29.10. 2010 19:32 »
On my Flash it was (and is) rough, just the way it left the sand casting mould. So were the timing side, gearbox and primary cover, crankcases, rockerbox, etc., and I think that is the way the bikes left the factory (unless they were displayed at the Earl's Court Show or something  *smile*).

Here's a contemporary picture from the Bacon book.

Cheers, Markus
1955 A7 Shooting Star
1956 A10 Golden Flash
1961 Matchless G12 CSR

www.histo-tech.at - Restoration, Repairs, Racing

Austria

Offline brackenfel

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Re: BSA / Ariel hubs
« Reply #3 on: 29.10. 2010 20:41 »
Hi Trev,
I have an 1957 Ariel NH350 (in bits!) that has the hubs but they're just a rough cast finish as Markus described. I've had the bike years and it is totally unrestored.... I also have a rear hub bought in error (it's a BSA one - subtly different!) at a jumble some time ago, same finish..

Polishing seems to be a more recent phenomenon !!

HTH ,

Cheers,
Adrian
1961 A10 650 Golden Flash - Blue
1954 BSA B33
Velocette Viper
Laverda 750 SF1
Kawasaki W650
Buell XB9S
Ariel 350NH & Matchless G3LS in bits...

Offline Retired Fireman

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Re: BSA / Ariel hubs
« Reply #4 on: 30.10. 2010 12:05 »
Hi guys I have a 1957 A10 Flash, when I bought the bike in 1980 (off a mate for 2 glasses of beer at an opportune moment in a pub) the front wheel was missing (surprise!)  I looked around for quite some time in OZZ and couldn't find one eventually buying one from Good old Drangonfly in the U.K. When it arrived it was dull and sandcastlike, the rear wheel was polished maybe the Ariel ones were cast finished and the BSA ones were polished. Any thoughts any one P.S. I polished the front hub!!

Offline bonny

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Re: BSA / Ariel hubs
« Reply #5 on: 30.10. 2010 13:45 »
the ariel hubs i got for my flash originally came off a b31 and were not polished but the brake plates were at some point , anyone got any ideas as how to increase the braking power of these hubs ? longer arms or special linings ? they have a pretty bad reputation for their stopping power and thats by british standards  *eek*.   

Offline wilko

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Re: BSA / Ariel hubs
« Reply #6 on: 30.10. 2010 22:13 »
Asbestos linings work a treat if you can find some old stock.

Offline muskrat

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Re: BSA / Ariel hubs
« Reply #7 on: 31.10. 2010 00:35 »
I'll 2nd that Wilko. Mine work great. Hunt around the brake and clutch shops and look for the oldest bloke there. He will probably have a stash of asbestos linings.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR, '76 XT500, '77 AG175 '83 CB1100F, '81 CB900F project.
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Offline Rocket Racer

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Re: BSA / Ariel hubs
« Reply #8 on: 31.10. 2010 01:07 »
the ariel hubs i got for my flash originally came off a b31 and were not polished but the brake plates were at some point , anyone got any ideas as how to increase the braking power of these hubs ? longer arms or special linings ? they have a pretty bad reputation for their stopping power and thats by british standards  *eek*.   

My opinion is that these hubs were only discontinued because they were too well made and not because of any braking issues. The quality in those hubs is quite impressive in comparison to the replacement cast iron jobs which look like the cost accountants were responsible. *whistle*
I have an alloy type hub on the rear of my outfit with a rod conversion and with its wide shoes is if anything too good. I may look at reducing my leverage as I tend to lock the back up on the track.
A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
New Zealand

Offline wilko

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Re: BSA / Ariel hubs
« Reply #9 on: 31.10. 2010 20:06 »
Refreshing to hear from someone who agrees without the moralising about asbestos use, Muskrat.

Offline muskrat

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Re: BSA / Ariel hubs
« Reply #10 on: 01.11. 2010 08:03 »
Yep, I heard air and water is bad for you too.
The amount of toxins and castagens I've lived with. I'd rather have asbestos brake linings than run under a bus. *eek*
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR, '76 XT500, '77 AG175 '83 CB1100F, '81 CB900F project.
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Offline MG

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Re: BSA / Ariel hubs
« Reply #11 on: 01.11. 2010 08:24 »
Hey you two!

Will you please stop playing down the dangers and risks of asbestos linings on a public forum!!!

If people don't panic at the pure sight of a NOS Ferodo lining, how should I go on hoarding cheap ones off ebay?  *rant*

1955 A7 Shooting Star
1956 A10 Golden Flash
1961 Matchless G12 CSR

www.histo-tech.at - Restoration, Repairs, Racing

Austria

Offline Rocket Racer

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Re: BSA / Ariel hubs
« Reply #12 on: 02.11. 2010 03:31 »
half the battle with these brakes is finding someone who can radius the shoes to match the hub. preferably with a shim under the brake cam.
Usually the "old" shoes that are worn out are at least well fitted and bedded in so were more effective than some off the shelf bonded shoes suitable for a hydraulic set up chucked into a cable operated single sided brake and subsequently doesnt do squat...

If I could find AM4 green linings I'd fit em, but getting hard to find!
A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
New Zealand