Can anyone describe the procedure for machining brake shoes on the brakeplate?
I want to do 69 TLS type. Obviously you'd centre them, then chuck up the axle? -but how do you stop the shoes shifting (floating) when you caress 'em with the tool?
Also, any more ideas on linings? I found AM4 green linings a bit 'grabby' on my Velo Clubman SLS front (V. good brake though for an SLS)
-Jools
Jools,
I dont bother with the axle bit .This is what i do . On your lathe , chuck a short length of (say ) dia.1 1/2" alloy or steel and turn a spigot so that the brake plate locates snug on it . Get a similar peice of material (only needs to be about 1 " long) which you have previously faced off both ends and centred one end deeply.
With the back plate located on the spigot the other part becomes a pressure pad which you do up hard against the other side of your b/plate with the tailstock and a revolving center.This should get your brake plate revolving truly and impart drive .
Most plates ive done have had a round fixed fulcrum which locates the shoes positively .Im not sure about the 2LS type but I would think that if you replaced the springs with lockwire and do them up tight ,all will be well .
I use a brazed tip tungsten carbide tool as I find that the brake friction material wears out a HSS tool in no time .Use a slowish speed,try 150 rpm . Remember to add a shim under the cam end of each shoe.Turn the shoes to be as good a fit as possible in the hub with minimum clearance.
Removing the shim you will give you the correct clearance . A short peice of hacksaw blade (with the kerf ground off) seems about right.
PLEASE use some form of local extraction if you think the linings contain asbestos.
Mike