Author Topic: Belt primary types?  (Read 4834 times)

Offline alanp

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Re: Belt primary types?
« Reply #15 on: 19.05. 2011 19:26 »
Alex, I've tried variations in spring pressure - no luck.
The SRM pressure plate has arrived now and looks nicely made. Here's hoping.
I've fitted the SRM pressure plate and the difference is......nil. That grip/slip/grip affect is still there as I'm pulling away and after a half dozen take offs neutral doesn't want to be found.
I know it's not the levers/cable etc since the chain drive works as sweet as a nut.
Had a thought that maybe the frictions need to bed in to get a smoother surface on them so I've been running the engine in the garage on the centre stand in gear and have been releasing the clutch lever a tad to bed them in, driving against the back brake locking the back wheel. I'll road test her over the next few days to see what happens.
Happy days!
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Offline Big Nick

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Re: Belt primary types?
« Reply #16 on: 21.05. 2011 08:58 »
tony haywood and srm pressure plate is the way to go, well that what i use
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Offline alanp

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Re: Belt primary types?
« Reply #17 on: 21.05. 2011 14:08 »
tony haywood and srm pressure plate is the way to go, well that what i use
Nick, do you run the primary dry?
If so I can't understand how mine judders on take off yet with the chain kit it's smooth. I haven't tried the Hayward with oil and am reluctant to do so since I bought the belt system to avoid using oil in the primary case.
The clutch assembly sequence I used is as follows, anyone see anything wrong with this:
Mount adaptor onto the gearbox main shaft using a key and having ensured the tapers are a good fit.
Insert the thin spacer ring onto the adaptor, up against its back face with the plain steel surface of the spacer ring facing outwards and the copper coloured face towards the gearbox.
Load 20 rollers onto the adaptor with grease to keep them in position.
Slide the clutch basket over the rollers.
Mount the clutch centre (3 spring one with the integral shock absorber) onto the adaptor splines and fix with the washer and nut.
Load the friction plates and plain plates into the clutch with a friction in first and a plain one ending up last.
Mount the SRM pressure plate and springs having inserted a correct length push rod to suit the SRM plate.
Ensure the SRM plate is running true.
Set clutch cable clearance.
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Online muskrat

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Re: Belt primary types?
« Reply #18 on: 21.05. 2011 15:04 »
G'day Alan,
               sounds good to me but I've never seen a Hayward set up. The only problem I can see is that the only time the rollers see lube is when you service the clutch (not often).
Try it without the spacer ring. It still sounds like it's dragging.
Cheers
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Online chaterlea25

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Re: Belt primary types?
« Reply #19 on: 21.05. 2011 22:03 »
Hi Alan,
A question on the thrust washer fitment??
I have only used these on A65's,
on these there are tabs which locate into holes on the shaft adaptor
this prevents the thrust washer turning relative to the adaptor,
SO the copper face is fitted towards the revolving chainwheel?????

The  reason the thrust washer is fitted  on later clutches is because there is no lip on the clutch centre to hold the innermost  plain plate
The extra (first) friction plate moves the spring pressure onto the chain wheel, which is why theres a thrust washer fitted behind it
The thrust washer requires lubrication,
I wonder if this is why you have problems with running the primary dry ????

HTH
John O R

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Offline alanp

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Re: Belt primary types?
« Reply #20 on: 22.05. 2011 09:39 »
Hi Alan,
A question on the thrust washer fitment??
I have only used these on A65's,
on these there are tabs which locate into holes on the shaft adaptor
this prevents the thrust washer turning relative to the adaptor,
SO the copper face is fitted towards the revolving chainwheel?????

The  reason the thrust washer is fitted  on later clutches is because there is no lip on the clutch centre to hold the innermost  plain plate
The extra (first) friction plate moves the spring pressure onto the chain wheel, which is why theres a thrust washer fitted behind it
The thrust washer requires lubrication,
I wonder if this is why you have problems with running the primary dry ????
HTH
John O R

Thanks John, but my spacer ring/thrust washer thingy doesn't have tabs on it. I've kind of given up now and ordered a belt drive kit from Bob Newby, the same as I used on my Gold Star. I'd really like to find out why it doesn't work though, for my sanity sake!
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Offline alanp

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Re: Belt primary types?
« Reply #21 on: 26.05. 2011 14:45 »
GREAT NEWS! Well it is for me.
I've just test run the bike with the new Bob Newby belt drive and it's as smooth as silk on take off. No more jerky take up when pulling away.
Phew, what a relief.
Just as a bonus the kit came complete with the correct width spacers for mounting the engine pulley, a crank nut pre-drilled for lock wire AND some lock wire to secure it to the pre-drilled engine pulley. This meant it took no time at all to install. That's what I call service.
Anyone want a Hayward belt drive kit at a big discount, only done 30 miles or so, complete with a lovely new cush drive clutch, correct hand scroll on the clutch adaptor and a custom A10 engine pulley spacer but will need to run with oil in the primary.
Alan
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Offline Big Nick

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Re: Belt primary types?
« Reply #22 on: 28.05. 2011 10:58 »
I use AFT in the primary drive
1932 500cc rudge
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Offline alanp

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Re: Belt primary types?
« Reply #23 on: 28.05. 2011 12:11 »
I use AFT in the primary drive
Nick, it's good to know they work fine with oil in the primary. I've got the kit up for sale for 1/2 price at the moment on this forum to see if anyone wants to get rid of their primary chain and its associated wear/noise. My primary chaincase is too distorted to run with oil in there and it drips like mad if I do.
Alan
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Offline rocket man

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Re: Belt primary types?
« Reply #24 on: 28.05. 2011 16:21 »
heres my srm kit very good pickup

dave

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Re: Belt primary types?
« Reply #25 on: 28.05. 2011 18:56 »
 That is good news Alan. *yeah*
Shame you went to all that trouble and expense with the Hayward job. I'm sure that there must have been something wrong with it that you couldn't see, maybe a part not machined square. Did you discuss it with them? I would have thought that they would take it back as it didn't work as intended.
What ratio is the Newby? Std 19/43 is 2.26:1, mine is 1.88:1 which is close to the 23/43 1.87:1.
Cheers
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Offline alanp

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Re: Belt primary types?
« Reply #26 on: 28.05. 2011 21:15 »
That is good news Alan. *yeah*
Shame you went to all that trouble and expense with the Hayward job. I'm sure that there must have been something wrong with it that you couldn't see, maybe a part not machined square. Did you discuss it with them? I would have thought that they would take it back as it didn't work as intended.
What ratio is the Newby? Std 19/43 is 2.26:1, mine is 1.88:1 which is close to the 23/43 1.87:1.
Cheers
When I bought it I said I wanted to run it dry. He was hesitant and said that some parts of it are best with oil lubrication, but I naively ignored this since the Newby on my Goldie ran dry and had no wear problems and I assumed it would be no different. However, the clutch itself is based on a late type 3 spring, cush drive centre BSA/Triumph clutch, with unsealed rollers, which normally runs in oil. It also came with a clutch adaptor with the oil flinger scroll on it (wrong hand scroll which I had to have corrected, but that's another story). Newby's doesn't come with an oil flinger scroll at all. So, I can't honestly get back to them and complain at my own stupidity.
Even Big Nick in a post above runs his Hayward with ATF in the primary. My primary case is an bad 'oil dripper' so I had to draw a line under this type.
I would have bought a Newby in the first place but Steve McFarlane was designing his A10 electric start to suit a chain drive and the Hayward belt drive only, maybe because his gear drive and sprag clutch inside the case also needed oil I don't know. As it happens I don't need the electric start since I seem to be able to kick her over OK.
Yes, it's a shame but no worries. Financially it's of no consequence so It'll either sell at 1/2 price or if not it'll stay on my desk as a reminder to never assume anything.
The Newby is 2 : 1 ratio. The Hayward is 1.833 which is close to the '62 ratio of 1.87
Alai
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