Powder coating, two pack or what ?

[Davie L]

I was wondering if anyone had an opinion on what type of paint is best for the frame and brackets on the bike as I am about to get them stripped and painted to start the rebuild.

I have heard various comment about the quality of finish, chip resistance, durability and touch up repair issues and would like to hear other peoples experiences and suggestions

David

[Brian]

David I usually get the frame and engine plates powder coated and paint the rest with two pack.

The powder coating is very hard and durable but, and its a big but, you have to have a powder coater that knows what they are doing or else you can end with with a lousy job. If you have not had any powder coating done before I would ask around and try and find someone who has used the particular company you are intending to use and seek their opinion.

Unfortunately its like a lot of things these days, properly done powdercoating is very good but if not done properly it looks lousy and it wont be long before the rust comes through. The mob I use sand blast the frame and then apply a zinc based undercoat and then the top coat.

[bsa-bill]

Good comments from Brain, defo find a good coater, ask around.
The guy that did my last one made a far superior job then the first lot did, they were doing it back pocket I reckon as most of their work was for super market shelving.
One tip I got when I picked my last one up was never ever use an abrasive polish on powder coat, it is a tough finish but soft and will dull if  restore type polish is used, a good wax is what's needed and it comes up with a nice lustre.

[Davie L]

Thanks Brian and BSA-bill

There is a good powder coater near me who generally refurbishes wheels and makes a cracking job so I will speak to him.

David

[BSA_54A10]

Just to confuse you.
I always go for POR 15 chassis paint as an undercoat.
It is thinner than water and will penetrate every nook & crannie sealing out moisture and rust forever.
It is thin enough not to cause threads to bind and tough as it comes.
Down side is that it is not UV stable so needs to be painted over with a top coat an for that I use a good quality brushing enamel and apply it with a good quality brush.

[Jules]

I had my frame and guards etc 2 pack painted some time ago by a friend and must say that now I'm working on the bike (trying to get it together  ) that they are scratching/marking quite badly, very disappointing I must say...........

[Butch (cb)]

Mine was two packed, and marks up as soon as you look at it. I would definitely agree - go for a good powder coater ...

[Davie L]

Thanks for the additional comments guys, Powder coating it is then.

David

[Brian]

David all finishes have their limitations, two pack does mark but so does powdercoating. Powdercoating is not usually suitable for mudguards or tinware as you can not put any filler under it, unless you have perfect tinware which is not usually the case, you will probably have to paint the guards etc. The other thing is if you use transfers like on the toolbox/oil tank etc, they need to be clear coated over the top so once again you need to use paint.

If you have the painting done by a professional they will bake the paint afterwards to "cure" it, if you do it yourself at home you need to give it time. If possible do your painting a couple of months before you intend to use it.

Like everything there are good and bad points for all finishes.

[Davie L]

Brian

Thanks for the additional information. It is my plan to do the 'body' parts with two pack. it was really only the frame and brackets that I think would need a more robust finish.

David

[RoadRunner]

Hi David,
I've used stove enamel for my frame and tin ware - only because I had the frame done years ago and wanted it to match - sort of!
Worth thinking ahead though if going to apply decals/transfers (oil tank & No Plate) it was suggested to apply two pack laquer, not single but paint just the decal first with clear varnish - I used Humbrol model making type varnish to save it cracking and its cheap. I'm really pleased with my result which went on top of the stove enamelling v.well.
Good luck,
RoadRunner 

[bsa-bill]

I'm going to resist bending your ears about not needing to lacquer / varnish over transfers - buy good ones

And - did BSA put anything over the transfers, I don't think so but I'm willing to be proved wrong

[RoadRunner]

Hi Bill,
Feel free to bend/tweak my ear - I just don't like doing things twice (well most things  ) and my decals are certainly not coming off. There's been few threads on the subject of decals/transfers etc. and I'm sure you're correct in that BSA didn't lacquer them either; perhaps the transfers were of better quality then eh?
Most the OEM parts I purchase are not quite as good as they should be hence my 'belt and braces approach'. However, as my A7 isn't totally original (far from it) and no doubt some will frown at it, but I like it and I hope some forum members will too.
Pics soon to follow.

RoadRunner 

[BSA_54A10]

Most of the factory fitted decals were the varnish transfer type so they became part of the painted finish.
Dealer fitted decals were water slide and of a better quality than we buy now days and did not wash off once left to dry off properly.

Now days we can not get the same quality water slide type , although those sold by the VMCC UK come close.
Varnish transfer type only come from VMCC or NOS from some older dealers.

Most are printed on a plastic film (Mylar usually) which is quite thick using a glue that dose not change or harden off but can & dose dry out ( and become unsticky ) at the edges. Then we have modern fuels which seem to be a mixture of all of the old style by product solvents that the "nannys" have decided we can no longer use at home but it is OK to "blend" them into our fuels.
These solvents will dissolve the glue on modern stickers hence the need to lacquer over them to seal the edges.