front wheel offset in forks

[terryg]

A valid point Jules re. the rims being identical widths or not.  Mine are both brand new CWC stainless WM2, consequently I 'expect' them to be identical in width; as they will, I assume, have been rolled on the same tooling.

BUT - I learnt a long time ago that 'assume' makes an ass of u and me!  I'll make sure I check the alignment from both sides.

What's the other saying?  Measure twice, cut once - measure once, cut twice!

[Angus]

Right did not want to do it myself as wanted it right to ride so wheels to wheel builders. He confirmed 5mm offset on front towards brake plate and none on the back. Got them back after two days and now fitted them both. Front dead centre in the forks, back as it was before and fine with the new tyre.
'Fram Motor Cycles' (Framlingham Suffolk) did not charge me much and quick and helpful 
Now some just need dry weather to scrub the new tyres in and continue enjoying riding her.

[Jules]

Ok then, I'm going to have a go at centreing the wheel myself, then remembered that it probably needs a tool of some sort that fits well onto the spokes - where do I get something like that that works ie doesn't round out because of the poor material?? any thoughts or practical experiences welcome....

[bsa-bill]

readily available from most of the usual suspects

This is the type you want though
Amazon here http://www.amazon.co.uk/KiWAV-Motorcycle-spoke-wrench-spanner/dp/B00F3XBUCQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1391508577&sr=8-1&keywords=motorcycle+spoke+spanner

[muskrat]

Thats the sort I have.
Here's one in Oz  http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Motorcycle-Spoke-Spanner-Tool-Wrench-6-in-1-Suit-MX-KX-RM-WR-YZ-YZF-CR-CRF-KTM-/151080580810?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item232d1ab6ca
Any bike shop would have them.
Cheers

[Jules]

Brilliant, thanks for the quick feedback and links - just bought one from your Aust. link Muskrat, cheers

[Jules]

Ok rec'd the tool, looks really good compared to my remembrance of the old type I had years ago! Good advice on the WD40 Muskrat, flooded them a few times and checked today, all cracked off ok except 2  . I must say that I was surprised it is only 2 when I looked at the state of the nipples  . I think I'll talk to Modak and (hopefully) get myself a few spares before I start, I suspect I might break a few....so here's the questions, if you can help please :
1. the parts book has the same spoke no. for front and rear but different nipples, 27 - 6813 front 27-6810 rear, any idea what the difference is and whether I can use either for front/rear?
2. the wheels are surprisingly true as is, just not centred, so I want to keep the trueness and just move the centre over 10mm at front and 5mm at rear - Muskrat suggested about 1.5 turns for the 10mm, but I'm sure I read somebody elses experience was much less than this. I really dont want to end up going back/forward so would appreciate your experiences...
3. finally, if I need to replace some spokes as I go around is this best done after I complete the move across (I'm assuming it will only be a few  ) or as I go  ie move it across without interuption and complete the job so that (hopefully) the trueness remains as all the other spokes would be moved the same amount, leaving the new one(s) to just be fitted and "nipped"...
thanks for your thoughts, cheers

[muskrat]

G'day Jules.
1: My book says the same re nipple #'s. I can't explain other than a typo in the parts list. 42-6813 is common to other hubs, go with it.
2: If you do it with the hub/rim in the forks give them 1 turn and check how far it's moved. Calculate how many turns to give you the desired movement.
3: Usually to replace a spoke most or all of the others must be slackened off (there goes you trueness). Outer spokes are easy but inner ones may need a few outers to be removed first.
Think of it all as a fun learning curve. Once done it's quite satisfying. I still remember my first  .
Cheers

[Jules]

Hi all, good advice Muskrat thanks - thought I'd feedback my experience for others too. I could only do 1/4 turn at a time because of the length of the spoke key, so ended up doing 3 rotations of 1/4 turn each, that got me the 10 mm offset fixed and recentred the wheel niceley in the forks and on the hub
Now I've checked the runout and its about 1.5mm horizontal and 1.5mm vertical (haven't identified the locations, just did a runout check). It doesn't look that good but I'm wondering what is an acceptable spec. please - I realise no runout would be ideal, but with old spoked wheels I cant believe that is (readily) achievable..... or is it 
Btw I'm only planning to use the bike as a club/coffe shop runs, no speeding/handling worries really......just as long as its roadworthy/safe, cheers

[bsa-bill]

I read somewhere that in the UK it's 1mm, this might be different in Aus

[muskrat]

I get mine down to 10 thou" = 1/4mm. You will find that where the rim is joined it's a bit flat or squashed. I try to beat it true with a mallet and then check it's the same width all the way round. If the joint is still out I disregard that section (may be 2 holes).
Cheers

[MartinK]

If the wheel is still true then it's an easy job to move it to centre of the forks.
Start at the valve and go right around the wheel slakening off the spokes on the side that too near the forks by only a quarter turn, starting at the valve again on the otherside tighten the spokes one quarter turn, (if you have to stop on either side mark the spoke you are upto (done) so you don't lose your place)
 check the wheel for centre, you might have to go around both sides again but it's amazing how much a quarter turn will move it  across.
Job satisfaction is good and if you manage to put it out of true "then" you can take it to a wheel biulder

Thanks for the info. I am building a 1953 Gold Flash and the front wheel is offset to the forks. Now I have a way to sort it out, thanks.

[MartinK]

On my 53 Gold Flash I had the same problem of offset front wheel. I adjusted the spokes and now it is correct. Just a little adjustment each time. slacken tight side and tighten opposite and you will see the movement.

[Grosvenor]

Re A10 Front wheel alignment. I've followed bsa-bill's instructions and others re loosen spokes one side and tighten the other and its's worked perfectly. My front wheel is now central in the forks. Old advice but very sound, 18 years later ha ha. Thanks again

[Grosvenor]

bsa-bill thanks for the advice. 18 years on it's still sound. I've adjusted the wheel by adjusting the spokes as you suggested and it's worked perfectly the wheel rim is now in the centre of the Forks