Author Topic: Refitting the FERC...  (Read 699 times)

Offline brackenfel

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  • Adrian - Bristol UK
Refitting the FERC...
« on: 16.06. 2011 19:04 »
So far apart from the odd oil leak & a bit of crud in the carb the A10 has been running well after the long struggle in the garage...

Encouraged by this I thought I'd fit the lower part of the dreaded Fully Enclosed Rear Chaincase (FERC). The top part has been acting as a chainguard for a while so it seemed logical to refit the lower bit.. OK in theory but in practice..

I recall having a struggle getting the upper bit in between the hub carrier & the swinging arm, the lower bit simply doesn't want to go..
have tried loosening the whole rear wheel , then found the wheelnuts didn't line up with the hole in the FERC for retightening..

I'd love to ditch the bl**dy thing for a standard guard but can't find one at a sensible price.

Has anyone worked out the way to get these things back on please???

Thanks,
Adrian
1961 A10 650 Golden Flash - Blue
1954 BSA B33
Velocette Viper
Laverda 750 SF1
Kawasaki W650
Buell XB9S
Ariel 350NH & Matchless G3LS in bits...

Offline bonny

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Re: Refitting the FERC...
« Reply #1 on: 16.06. 2011 19:25 »
The fully enclosed rear chain guards go for good money and even the repro one go for £199 from india , why not sell yours and buy the one you want ? I have one for my flash and hope it goes on easier then you have experienced.

Offline brackenfel

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  • Adrian - Bristol UK
Re: Refitting the FERC...
« Reply #2 on: 18.06. 2011 18:03 »
Hi Bonny,
I've thought of this but will probably keep the FERC anyway & just wait for a standard guard at the right price..

I can say this now as I've been out in the garage this afternoon & have just managed to fit the damn thing...
So, in case it's any use to anyone here's how I did it:-

- Measure length of chain adjusters with chain correctly set (I used matchsticks marked with felt tip) so that you can get it roughly right on assembly - remember the FERC will cover the chain & you can't measure as easily!!
- Remove LHS silencer.
- Support the rear wheel (I used carpet & papers under the tyre)
- Undo and withdraw the wheel spindle from the RHS, remove the spacer.
- Leave the wheel bolted to the rear sprocket.
- Loosen the sprocket carrier nut until the whole wheel/sprocket moves laterally.
- Fit the top FERC section starting with the bolt nearest the engine. The rear part fits between the sprocket carrier & the swingarm. It may need to be persuaded into position as there isn't much room. When correct the lower curved part of the steel should fit against the swingarm. Fit the second bolt.
- Ensure this section is fully down - if it isn't you won't be able to get to the wheel nuts with a socket through the access hole (don't ask how I know!!)
- Repeat the process upside down(!) on the lower section.
- You'll know it's right if the end section fits. If it doesn't, then one or both sections is not snug enough against the swingarm..
- Replace silencer, tighten up sprocket carrier nut, replace wheel spindle , check alignment & chain tension etc....

Haven't been for a test run yet - wil let you know if I have any more problems.

Hope this helps someone still to fit one of these..

Cheers,
Adrian
1961 A10 650 Golden Flash - Blue
1954 BSA B33
Velocette Viper
Laverda 750 SF1
Kawasaki W650
Buell XB9S
Ariel 350NH & Matchless G3LS in bits...