Author Topic: getting ready for line boring  (Read 406 times)

Offline coater87

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getting ready for line boring
« on: 10.04. 2014 14:10 »

 I have the bushings ready, cases still need to be boiled and cleaned though.

 I am wondering what I all need in way of fasteners and other parts to get my

 main bushing line honed properly.

 I am imagining I will need at least the dowel pins for the cases (why would anyone remove these? Your guess is as good as mine, but they did, and lost them *sad2*). I will have to turn new dowels, not a hard thing but more a PIA.

 I suppose I will need at least some of the case bolts/studs to hold the two halves together. Which are most important at this point?

 I wonder if its better to bolt the cylinders to the cases?

 Will it be best for them to locate off the outer race of the main bearing, and should I insert this before taking the cases in- or is there a reason not too?

 The only shop I found locally that will do it, is a large industrial job shop. I got the feeling they are willing to do it just to keep from going insane doing the same castings over and over. The price they quoted seemed good (about 50 pounds, or 75 dollars) and said they needed a week.

 I just want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row before dropping it off.

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Central Wisconsin in the U.S.

Online KiwiGF

  • Last had an A10 in 1976, in 2011 it was time for my 2nd one. It was the project from HELL (but I learned a lot....)
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Re: getting ready for line boring
« Reply #1 on: 11.04. 2014 09:49 »
I got an engineer to do mine so I am no expert but I reckon the cases should locate accurately on the circular shoulder/recess bsa have provided for that purpose and the dowel makes sure the cases locate "axially" or "rotationally" so the barrel face is flat so no need to bolt the barrel on.

I would put all the bolts in.

There's a few ways the bearing can be properly bored, described on this forum. The way mine was done was with the barrel face bolted down to the mill table and a boring tool clocked off the drive side housing and timing side then bored out, this method also sorted any misalignment due to my cases being mismatched albeit my engineer reckoned mis matched cases usually have aligned main bearing housings but barrel faces and cam shaft bearings usually do not align without work.

If you are in no hurry I would wait for others to chime in as there are some real experts on this topic in the forum.

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New Zealand

1956 A10 Golden Flash (1st finished project)

1949 B31 rigid “400cc hot rod” (2nd finished project, + favourite bike)

GL1800 Goldwing, well, the wife likes it

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