Author Topic: Rear brake conversion, cable -> rod  (Read 1496 times)

Offline Butch (cb)

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Rear brake conversion, cable -> rod
« on: 21.11. 2011 12:55 »
I've seen this conversion discussed hereabouts a few times. I'm currently running a QD set up at the back with what I take to be a full width drum. It operates via cable.

I've managed to get myself another gear change lever which I understand should have the dia and spline pattern that I need - I've yet to try it. My question here relates to the relationship of the arm length I'll use here against that of the drum actuator itself.

I want to leave the cable anchor on the brake plate as is, so to get around that I'll need a longer actuator arm such that the rod will then pass over the top of this. I'm presuming to therefore increase the length on the shift lever that I will be using such that I have the same ratio and hence the same mechanical advantage.

Does anyone have a view on whether there is any advantage (sorry) on changing that ratio, I don't really want to be fooling with a lot of trial and error - my workshop is not that well equipped.

Warning - observations made by this member have a 93% unreliability rating.

Of Bikes; various, including ...
'58 Iron Head Flash Bitza

Online bsa-bill

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Re: Rear brake conversion, cable -> rod
« Reply #1 on: 21.11. 2011 13:14 »
Much good info here,1163.0.html

To go off at a slight tangent and give you something else to chew on has anyone fitted the 7 inch TLS front brake to the rear wheel, this is a thought I have had at times also Royal Enfield make a 7 inch TLS that can be got for any where between 30 to 70 pounds, bit much to buy without knowing a few dimensions, I passed one up at a car boot sale as I did not at the time know what it was.
Let us know your progress
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco

Offline Brian

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Re: Rear brake conversion, cable -> rod
« Reply #2 on: 21.11. 2011 20:59 »
I've just done this conversion myself although as I dont have an engine in the bike at the moment I havent tried it yet.

The spline on the gear lever is the same. I made that part up out of an original arm as that was what I had. I made it the same length so no change to the leverage there.

Having a look I think you could use a gear lever turned around. You would need to shorten it and weld a tab for the rod to attatch to on the end.

I made the lever for the rear drum 1/2" longer. The one thing I did do was to make the angle of both levers so they sat at about 11 o'clock, they are at about 12 o'clock with the brake hard on. I also fitted a longer torque arm so the pivot point on the rear drum is slightly higher than the axle. I am hoping all this will give me slightly better geometry. Since I took these pics I have turned the torque arm into a "dogbone" and tidied it all up so it looks a bit more original. I made it all out of stainless.

The pedal definitely feels better, it goes a lot harder when the brakes are on, not so spongy. As soon as I get it going again I will know if it was worth doing.

Offline trevinoz

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Re: Rear brake conversion, cable -> rod
« Reply #3 on: 21.11. 2011 21:25 »
An easier way to convert is to source the lever from an A65 rod brake Star, saves cutting up a gear lever.


Offline NickSR

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Re: Rear brake conversion, cable -> rod
« Reply #4 on: 25.11. 2011 20:17 »
Hi  Cyclobutch

If you would like to PM me your Email address I will send yoy a step by step guide

on the conversion that I completed.

Then you can choose which option.

1962 Super Rocket
1955 BSA C11G
1998 BMW R850R

Offline tedbill1

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Re: Rear brake conversion, cable -> rod
« Reply #5 on: 18.03. 2013 18:57 »
Hi Nick

New to the forum. Most interested in reading rear brake conversion cable to rod. I had a BSA A10 Golden Flash  for my Birthday in
Jan and longing to do this conversion.
My e-mail is if you could message me that would be great.


A Billington
Bedfordshire England
a10 59 gold flash swingarm