Hi Rich!
Sorry if I caused you a headache
With "bearing seat" I was referring to the crankshaft pin itself. Many people simply grind 2-3thou away (during a crank regrind), resulting in a close sliding fit of the bearing inner race on the shaft. Personally I prefer the disposable bearing method, but there is no real downside associated with the before mentioned method, as long as the cush drive nut is tightened properly.
It had been done on my old small journal crank by one of the POs, without causing any problems, and that crank is now running happily in another member's plunger A10 (well, I hope it still is, haven't heard otherwise at least).
As long as there is no perceptible play and the crank pin isn't out of round, which could cause misalignment of the crank, Loctite is more or less unneeded. The inner race is clamped tightly between the distance piece and crank web anyway. Some Loctite will help to keep the bearing in place with the cush drive removed though and might help save the bearing seat in case of the cush nut coming loose. Imho it is best to leave the securing pin on the crank end away and rather hear the loose nut rub against the primary case, which will give you a chance to stop the bike immediately and fix it before the crankpin suffers damage (or use an SRM hex nut instead)!
Once the bearing seat on the crankshaft is damaged by a rotating bearing race (running on a loose cush drive for extended periods), and is out of round or play is evident, it can still be restored by hard-chroming or flame spraying with a subsequent regrind to restore the press fit.