Author Topic: Rear Wheel removal A7  (Read 2828 times)

Offline ian davies

  • A's Best Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Oct 2009
  • Posts: 53
  • Karma: 0
Rear Wheel removal A7
« on: 07.01. 2012 17:08 »
Hi everyone. I wonder if someone can help, i recently took the rear wheel off my A7 to send off for rebuilding, after removing the spindle, the spacer between the hub and swing arm was quite tight i had to lever it out, i thought this cant be right. I got the wheel back today and i knew i was going to have trouble, the spacer will not go in, what i noticed is the drive gear is not fully engageing with the drum i'm wondering if the short spindle fixing the drum to the swing arm is too long. Also what is correct method to adjust the rear wheel bearings. Thanks Ian.
ian davies

Offline ian davies

  • A's Best Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Oct 2009
  • Posts: 53
  • Karma: 0
Re: Rear Wheel removal A7
« Reply #1 on: 07.01. 2012 17:39 »
Hi it's me again, i just measured the spindle which goes through the drum it's three and a quarter inches with a sort of a double flange on the right hand side, or should i say the side which the hub buts up to. Cheers Ian.
ian davies

beezermacc

  • Guest
Re: Rear Wheel removal A7
« Reply #2 on: 08.01. 2012 16:53 »
To avoid any confusion are we dealing with full width or Ariel or crinkle hub? Do you have a parts book so if I reply with help we know which parts we are talking about?

Offline ian davies

  • A's Best Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Oct 2009
  • Posts: 53
  • Karma: 0
Re: Rear Wheel removal A7
« Reply #3 on: 08.01. 2012 19:35 »
Hi there. Sorry i should have said, it's a crinkle hub, thanks.
ian davies

Offline ian davies

  • A's Best Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Oct 2009
  • Posts: 53
  • Karma: 0
Re: Rear Wheel removal A7
« Reply #4 on: 08.01. 2012 19:36 »
I only have a haynes manual, not much help.
ian davies

beezermacc

  • Guest
Re: Rear Wheel removal A7
« Reply #5 on: 08.01. 2012 22:38 »
The problem with A10 wheels is there are a lot of very similar, though not identical parts. In theory, even though the sleeve was tight, it should all go back together again. There is no adjustment on the bearings. The procedure is as follows.... Assemble the brake drum and components then attach this to the swing arm, tighten fully. Roll the wheel into the gap then locate it against the splines. Loosely fit the dust collar over the distance sleeve then slide these two components into the gap between the wheel and swing arm. Fit the rear wheel spindle. Slide the dust collar up to the wheel and press into place. Slacken the nut on the half spindle at the brake side and adjust the chain length. Hope this helps. I can scan the page from the parts book and e-mail it to you if you have any further problems.

Online Brian

  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: May 2007
  • Posts: 1720
  • Karma: 41
  • Mt Gambier, South Australia.
Re: Rear Wheel removal A7
« Reply #6 on: 08.01. 2012 23:01 »
Here is a scan of the wheel assembly.

A couple of things to be carefull of, if you have had the bearings out of the hub make sure the sleeve (pt no. 34) is in the correct way around, the short side goes to the brake. Also make sure the spacer (no. 35) in the correct place.

Also check that the distance collar (no. 29) isnt missing. I have had a couple of these where this part has been missing and the swingarm has been squashed together slightly. If this is the case you will have to "spring" the swingarm apart slightly to get the spacer in.

Offline ian davies

  • A's Best Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Oct 2009
  • Posts: 53
  • Karma: 0
Re: Rear Wheel removal A7
« Reply #7 on: 09.01. 2012 16:59 »
Good Afternoon all helpfull and knowledgeable biker friends. The information received has been most helpfull, the problem is as i thought, someone in the past has fitted a stub axle which is too long, or they may have bought a complete drum assembly from another machine.As i said previously, the drive gears at the hub were not meshing fully, only about half mesh. Also on the right side the short collar is missing as there is no room for it due to the wheel being too far to the right. So a new stub axle and collar should put things right, i did find out today the correct axle is shorter than the one in the bike, job done. Thanks very much. Ian
ian davies

Offline Pilgrim

  • North Kent. U.K.
  • A's Best Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Oct 2011
  • Posts: 62
  • Karma: 1
Re: Rear Wheel removal A7
« Reply #8 on: 09.01. 2012 18:00 »
Hiya,
Sorry if I'm a bit late with this, but I had the same trouble with one of mine.
A previous owner? had fitted the distance collar Pt.29 under Pt.45 and it went through the brake drum
and butted up against the brake drum bearing.This gave me the same problem as you appear to have.
My problem was on an A10 not an A7 though. If they have the same setup, I wonder if this could be your problem.
I only mention this as my dummy spindle also measures 3 1/4", the same as yours.
Perhaps someone on the forum can confirm the A7 dimension for sure."Cos they ain't cheap".
Cheers.
Regards, Geoff.
1962 R.G.S.
1963 R.G.S.
2004 Bonnie. T100.

Offline duTch

  • Ricketty Rocketty Golden Flashback
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Oct 2011
  • Posts: 4540
  • Karma: 41
Re: Rear Wheel removal A7
« Reply #9 on: 09.01. 2012 19:01 »
Hiya Ian, before you go berserk, you didn't say if your wheel has a bolt on sprocket, if not, you MAY have the correct wheel however- a SIMILAR arrangement was used on the '65 A65/50 only, then bolt on sprocket '66- '70, as I found out as I threw a combination of various on mine 'cos they looked the part, but noticed one day that things didn't look right!!!
    If anyone else has a copy of '65 and '66-'70 that can be scanned that would be helpful for you to look at- (mine is all on a copyright disc and I haven't figured out if/how to grab and send pages).
   Thing is,plunger ones are SIMILAR also, but ,going by part numbers, and experience, they all have different diameter bearings in the chainwheel/brakedrum(which doesn't matter except it helps to identify) and the '66-on bolt-on sprocket ones (appear to) have an integral spacer on/inside the brake plate,rather than a separate one,with the s/a '54-'57  spacer similar to plunger(but different numbers), and '65 different spacer again, even though the brake drum is same part number('54-57 s/a & '65 A65/50) .
 Confused?? I read up and then wrote this -blame BSA
 Basically what you have obviously works, but may be worth checking bits, 'cos as you say maybe the short spindle/spacer(aka 'hub collar') are wrong,as the '65 has a different p#.
  I gotta go back to sleep good luck, hope I haven't confused you too much, duTch

PS pilgrim posted while I was writing, and it's worth noting that some A7 p#'s are different to A10 mainly sprockets(solo/sidecar/Star Twin),but I just checked and the relevant parts are listed for 'A series' or 'A7and A10'
(3-4.30am-30degC - yahoo)
 
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia

Offline duTch

  • Ricketty Rocketty Golden Flashback
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • *
  • Join Date: Oct 2011
  • Posts: 4540
  • Karma: 41
Re: Rear Wheel removal A7-Self correction
« Reply #10 on: 10.01. 2012 11:59 »
Quote
with the s/a '54-'57  spacer similar to plunger(but different numbers), and '65 different spacer again, even though the brake drum is same part number('54-57 s/a & '65 A65/50) .

I had a better look at Brians' scan  P.ref#45-> (Part #67-6032), and the collar/spacer isn't the same as plunger one,which has ~5/16" square section. What you need and possibly have, has a stepped section with the larger diameter to the brake plate(should be the only way), and as Pilgrim said,the thickness and fitment is critical. This in conjunction with correct brake drum and the length of the inboard end of the "Stub-Spindle'(your 'double flange' ), I suggest is critical for ensuring correct alignment of the drive chain and wheels. I'll have to let someone who has the correct stock parts give measurements 'cos I don't know them.
   I'm gonna paste not so good pictures of a couple of different drums, so you may be able to see the difference in distance between the drum face and bearing boss,of maybe your model,or similar, and a later bolt-on sprocket- just stuff to consider when chasing parts. Good luck with it!  [/i][/color]
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
Australia

Offline ian davies

  • A's Best Friend
  • ***
  • Join Date: Oct 2009
  • Posts: 53
  • Karma: 0
Re: Rear Wheel removal A7
« Reply #11 on: 10.01. 2012 20:52 »
Hello everyone. Thanks again for all the help and interest. Ok, today i have spent a few hours sorting the problem. firstly the drum and backplate i am sure are correct for the bike, chain is perfectly aligned, as i said before the wheel is 3/8 of an inch to far to the right the stub axle being too long is the obvious problem. I priced parts today bit pricey, would knock a hole in my disability benefit, so i measured everything while sipping a cup of hot thinking medicine, and then i set about it. First shortened the stub by cutting the end off close to the second flange/ ridge, i then found two thickish washers, drilled them, squared up the end of the stub and welded the washers to the stub in place of the bit i cut off, refitted the stub and wheel, the spacer number 29 of course was missing, but the bit i cut off the stub fits perfectly,after dressing the cut face flat and square, spacer number 30 now fits perfectly, not too tight or slack snug push fit by hand. Wheel is now fully meshed with the drum, wheels aligned, and chain tension done.Just as well keep going, my disability is severe arthritis, total replacement of my right knee three years ago, but it only bends to 65 degrees left knee needs doing badly, but not if it's going to end up same as the right.Now youre wondering how i ride my bike, well i made a footrest out of a pair bantam handle bars and bolted to front engine mounts, shortened gear lever and fitted vertical, remote rod from lever to rocking heel and toe pedal, works well.  Cheers all the best Ian.
ian davies

Online muskrat

  • Global Moderator
  • Wise & Enlightened
  • **
  • Join Date: Jul 2009
  • Posts: 8513
  • Karma: 112
  • Lithgow NSW Oz
    • Shoalhaven Classic Motorcycle Club Inc
Re: Rear Wheel removal A7
« Reply #12 on: 11.01. 2012 11:17 »
 Where there's a will, there's a way.
Good one Ian
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, 88 FXST .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7