Poor front brake on A7

[stu.andrews]

I have a 1961 A7. The rear brake is really effective but the front is poor. I wish to keep the bike as original as possible so do not want to go down the TLS route. Can anyone suggest some good linings that would help. The front hub has no ovality.

Thanking you.

[Goldy]

Have you got it adjusted correctly, tightening the adjuster until it,s binding then just free it off a little.

[stu.andrews]

Yes, all set up OK. Initial application gives a bit of "bite" but then rapidly fades.

[fido]

Sorry if I'm stating the obvious but bikes of this era usually had poor brakes compared to modern machines. You won't eliminate fade entirely but there are ways of optimising the performance of the humble  sls brake. There are specialist firms advertising in the classic bike mags who will fit better linings and machine them on the brake plate to match your drum.

[Pete Gray]

I've just had my A7 brakes relined by a local, Sheffield, Company.
http://www.custombrakes.co.uk/brake-pads-sheffield.html
I asked for softer linings than the existing ones which up to now have improved matters considerably.They charged £20 a pair.

But as Fido says there is absolutely no comparison with modern bike brakes.

[stu.andrews]

Have had classics before but this front brake is particularly poor. Will try ferodo & your suggestions.

Thanks

[Triton Thrasher]

If the trailing shoe touches the drum before the leading one, you'll have bad brakes.

[huddie]

Hello Stu, I have an identical problem with the SLS front brake on my A10. Accepting all the advice about the performance of old style brakes compared with new I would say mine is frightning and I dont scare that easily. I would be very interested in how you got on with the advice.
One reply said they will be poor if the trailing shoe touches first. How does one check that then?
Regards Chris

[stu.andrews]

'Tis really a case of slackening the fulcrum pin (or pivot), applying the brakes as firm as possible & retightening the pin again. This centralises the shoes. I have already tried this, so it's probably new linings next. At the moment, the magneto is off to go to be rebuilt, so when it's all back together & running I can investigate further. Watch this space!!.

[huddie]

Hi Stu, Hope you pick this post up. I have just got round to sorting my front brake out, long ride coming up in July. I am still not sure what you mean by your last post. What is the Fulcrum pin??. Is it the brake operating arm attached to the drum or do you mean the brake torque arm attached to the fork leg. Sorry to be a pain but it's better to say I dont understand than assume.
Regards Chris.

[a10 gf]

What is the Fulcrum pin??

It's the brake shoes' 'anchoring point' at the opposite side of the brake torque arm. Needs to be slackened, then apply brakes, then retighten, ref. stu.andrews's 27.04 post.

[Triton Thrasher]

One reply said they will be poor if the trailing shoe touches first. How does one check that then?
Regards Chris

One clue is the brake works better when you push the bike backwards, than forwards.

[huddie]

Like I said ,I keep on asking questions if I am not sure. The only thing opposite the brake torque arm on my hub is the brake shoe adjuster. Is this what you mean by "anchoring point". I want to be sure I have this right.
Regards Huddie.

[a10 gf]

Yes, it's the fulcrum pin, to centralize the shoes loosen the nut, following the instructions given in posts here.

[stu.andrews]

Hi Huddie

The fulcrum pin is the common pivot to both shoes, opposite from the operating cam.
Not much of an update at the moment as the bike has had a holiday whilst the magneto is being overhauled. When all is back together, I'll update the brake situation. For what it's worth, I slackened the fulcrum pin, pulled the brakes on really tightly then tightened everything, but the brakes were very little better. I expect that the linings are quite old & could do with replacing. Meanwhile, the rear is about the most powerfull I have ever had on a classic!