SRM recommends monograde?

[a10 gf]

For a7\a10, what's the latest & current oil status & opinions? 30 or 40 winter, 40 or 50 summer ? Multigrade ?

[Topdad]

I've always run on mono 40 or 50 without any probs ,following all the work done by SRM for me 8 yrs ago they recommended mono still OK Last article I read in one of the monthlys stated mono I look forward to hearing everyones opinion and experiences cheers BobH.

[olev]

I've managed to find the paperwork that came with an SRM oil pump I acquired few years ago.
quote:  'We DO NOT recommend the fitting of any obstruction in the oil lines such as filter kits or non return valves.' end quote.
I assume they recommend the use of monograde expecting the journal sludge trap to collect the crap.
Apparently modern multi-grade oils keep the particals in solution.
So either go the SRM way using mono and no filters or fit a filter and use multi-grade.
I think one or both the Newcastle Trevs have explained this in more detail.
I'm going to fit a filter and will use multi-grade. (at least until it blows up)
cheers

[lawnmowerman]

Morris Golden Film straight 40 for me. I tried 20/50 and she spat the lot on the garage floor when starting after a couple of weeks. No wet sumping problems with straight 40.

Jim

[bsa-bill]

Without a filter change it often, 1000 miles or yearly whatever comes first, worn rings change it more often, and if you change it this often it really makes no difference what you put in it
Cheap Super market multi is fine.
With a filter it needs to be an oil with some detergent in it but still change it as above, Classic Mono is available with detergent (Chatsworth? not sure about the spelling)

That's my opinion - other opinions are available

[bikerbob]

I have read numerous articles about oil for classic vehicles and the general opinion seems to be that if you use an in line cartridge filter then it is okay to use multigrade oil such as 20/50 but without a filter in use monograde it seems that multigrade oils are designed to carry small particles in suspension and then be trapped in the filter but monogrades do not. But both sides always say change your oil on a regular basis. I personally use Halfords Classic multigrade oil 20w/50w presently at £18.95 per 5 litres which so it says is designed for classic vehicles, it does have a low detergent added, I have used this oil for a number of years now but I change my oil and cartridge filter every year regardless of any low  mileage for that year oil is much cheaper than a strip down.

[bsa-bill]

I personally use Halfords Classic multigrade oil 20w/50w

I have used that too Bob, doesn't it come in a nice proper tin oil can, looks the biz.
Many moons ago I new a man who was salesman for BP ( the old story, voted salesman of the year then made redundant) anyway BP sold oil to Woolworths. it was viscostatic but branded Woolworths 20/50, kind of knocks the wind out of oil arguments

[cotterpinkid]

After a number of years 'laid up' I've just got the plunger Flash back on the road. I needed some new oil and was going to go for Silkolene 'Chatsworth 40' monograde (I've thrashed a Velocette Venom on this for the last 10 years without a problem).

However, I was chatting at the shop with the local classic bike builder / dealer who said I should run the A10 on the non-detergeant 'Donnington 40' as the A10 doesn't have an in-line filter i.e. using a detergeant oil without a filter leads to debris being continuously dragged around the engine. The Chatsworth detergeant oil is okay for the Velo as that has got a filter. He went on to say that the warranty he gives with his machines would be void if an oil containing detergeant was used.

Sorry to add further confusion to the debate.

Brian

[Goldy]

I used Halfods classic but found a slight wisp of blue smoke from the exhaust. I have since used Morris golden film 40 without any problems, but it,s not suitable for winter use in the uk.

[a10 gf]

cotterpinkid wrote

Sorry to add further confusion to the debate.

nothing to sorry about, very good to get all possible input.

[wilko]

I use whatever i collect out my car sump after an oil change.

[jfligg]

Hi Guys

   In Canada I use Valveoline VR Racing 50.  It is a mono grade oil.  The main reason I use it is it has ZDDP additives.  The zinc phosphorous (forgive the spelling) is benificial for flat style tappets and roller cams.  I have tried multi grade 20/50 in the past and it just bubbles out the vent when hot.  We live close to the US so I get it at Pep Boys.  Jeff

[Topdad]

Bloody hell Bill, "viscostatic"  theres a name that brings back memories of my first job ,15, working in a garage filling a Cresta's engine semed to take about 2 gallons and couldn't turn of the oil eventually 3 of us were covered in the stuff ,wasn't it red in colour ?? oh and didn't get the push turned out to be the pumps fault, regardsv BobH

[bsa-bill]

filling a Cresta's engine seemed to take about 2 gallons and couldn't turn of the oil eventually 3 of us were covered in the stuff ,wasn't it red in colour ??

Don't think it was red Bob, if it was red and working on a Cresta then that would be rust 

Think I'm talking sometime in the seventies

[muskrat]

 Wilko, I do it the other way. 5 bikes gives me enough to do both cars.
 I use the cheapest 20/50 I can find. Usually Gulf Western and add a bit of Nulon, changed about every 1500 miles. Filter as well.
 Years ago I drove a truck around all the servo's and mechanics to pick up all their old waste oil. It then went off to be re-refined and sold as payless oil in supermarkets. May be GW is the same stuff.
 I was told years ago that the oil itself doesn't break down but the additives do and is contaminated by fuel and carbon. Filter it right and it should last forever.
 Cheers