Author Topic: A10 clutch adjustment  (Read 5492 times)

Offline dpaddock

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Re: A10 clutch adjustment
« Reply #15 on: 30.08. 2008 22:17 »
We don't all have torque wrenches that go down that low.
      Some folks with clutch set up problems do.
 The 4 spring clutch is generally considered to be a better device than the 6 spring so it should not be difficult to get it working well.
      Especially with a torque wrench.
Cheers,
David
David
'57 Spitfire


Offline Oscarmark

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Re: A10 clutch adjustment
« Reply #16 on: 23.06. 2013 22:26 »
Hi everyone,

Still very new to all this, my A10 RGS is now back together and running...... new clutch plain plates and friction plates, new springs etc... RGS cable with adjuster at the handlebar and at the gearbox end... new gearbox as well. I know very little about how clutches work, but I got the bike started on a roller and couldn't get it out of gear, even with the lever fully pulled in the wheel was still spinning the roller. So I guess the clutch is not disengaging??? Before I put the primary cover back on I tightened the adjusters until the tip of the screw was just exposed. I guess I now need to slacken them off to allow the clutch to disengage correctly. The clutch was lifting evenly. Incidentally I have a 4 spring clutch. Having difficulty getting my head around this.

Your help would be very welcome.

Mark
Epsom

Online bsa-bill

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Re: A10 clutch adjustment
« Reply #17 on: 24.06. 2013 09:38 »
Flash - four spring clutch, srm pressure plate, thinner plates allows one extra - one finger operation no slip
Rocket Gold Flash - four spring clutch, Lyford pressure plate, thinner plates allows an extra plate - one finger operation

one finger used to be my little finger and it didn't slip but I chickened out and give them another turn.
Yes getting it to lift square requires a bit of patience as it rarely seems to happen without several rotations of the clutch and adjustments but worth the effort
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco

Offline Topdad

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Re: A10 clutch adjustment
« Reply #18 on: 24.06. 2013 10:47 »
Hi Mark, has Bill said getting the adjustment lift even requires a little patience and time . To help with the primary cover off get your self a piece of stiff wire ( an old wire clothes hanger ,and fix it to a suitable stud ,I use the corner barrell nut ,when fitted  bend wire and use against the clutch presure plate edge . Before you do anything else check the adjustment at the gearbox inspection cover and adjust so the clutch arm is parerall (?) to the gearbox top when pulled in .Back to the clutch pull in clutch and depress the kickstarter slowly,watch the pressure plate and your pointer and adjust the screws to get the lift even ,when it is try the same procedure and you should feel the difference as you depress the kickstarter . Then take her for a run without the cover on and adjust when and if required .Play particular attention to get neutral without bother (I personally hate it ,really gets on my tits ) Just take it steady and get it right, best wishes Bob.
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Offline muskrat

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Re: A10 clutch adjustment
« Reply #19 on: 24.06. 2013 12:44 »
Tightening the nuts will only make pulling the lever harder, it won't stop the clutch disengaging unless the springs are coilbound. Back them off so the tip of the stud is level with the bottom of the screwdriver slot. Pull the clutch lever in, the pressure plate should move outward about 1/8" or so. I use a dial gauge to adjust the plate lift but a pointer like Bob's will do. I also use a hose clamp to hold the lever in, and spin the clutch with the back wheel in gear. Adjust the nuts so the plate lifts squarely. Release the lever then pull it in a few times then check it all again.
Under the oval cover near the gear lever is the clutch push rod adjuster. This should be a little less than 90 degrees to the push rod at rest and a little more than 90 degrees at full lift. Same with the outer arm.
That'll keep you busy for an hour or two.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, 88 FXST .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Offline Oscarmark

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Re: A10 clutch adjustment
« Reply #20 on: 24.06. 2013 19:05 »
I have a split push rod with 2 x ball bearings.... If I just have the usual 1, then there is only about 1/8" of push rod visible at the gearbox end........ is this correct. The symptoms are now, start the bike, pull in the clutch, engage gear..... the bike stalls.

I have slackened off the spring adjusters 1/2 turn each. My limited understanding of the way a clutch works is that when you pull the lever in you disengage drive from the primary to the rear wheel, if that is the case then it would appear that this is not happening. My questions to you guys are as follows..

If I add another ball bearing to the centre of the push rod will this help with adjustment?

Should I continue to slacken off the adjusters on the clutch plate?

As I have an RGS clutch cable ie an adjuster at each end.... then I need to remove all the adjustment at each end to get rid of most of the play at the lever end.

It is my birthday today and was really hoping to be riding the bike!!! *sad2*

Offline muskrat

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Re: A10 clutch adjustment
« Reply #21 on: 24.06. 2013 21:54 »
Happy Birthday. *smile*
Do what ever you need to do to get the pressure plate to lift. If it had two balls (now now fellas) put both back. It should have none.
Don't back the springs off any more.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, 88 FXST .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7