BSA A10 clutch push rod length

[RichardL]

LJ, et al,

Reading form our long log of A7/A10 tricks, techniques and little-known facts, I was looking back at the 11 August 2008 post that says that the ball on the end of the the screw in the clutch operating lever (inside the gearbox) should roll free in its captivity. Is this a fact to a certainty, because mine doesn't, I haven't figured out how to fix it without ruining the screw, and, once again, I am impatient to complete the reassembly.

Thoughts, facts and insults welcomed

Richard L.

[trevinoz]

Richard,
               I am sure the ball should be free to roll.
I have several examples which are worn badly and the ball is locked solid.
I have some new ones and they are free excepting one. I put this down to the generally poor quality control of pattern parts.
As to a fix, throw it away and get a new one.
Trev.

[RichardL]

Trev (and LJ),

Thanks, very much. I will acquire a new one. In thinking about whether it should spin or not, I forgot how easy it is to replace after assembly.

In the process of all this I also decided my clutch rod was too short, a residue from when I assembled the gearbox in 2005 and knew even less than I do now. I went with the ball-bearing-in-the-middle-of-the-rod trick and that seems to have it at a good length. I also hardened all four rod ends. I didn't get too exotic with the hardening procedure, but I think I got them hard enough, heating them with a mapp/oxygen torch and quenching in ATF. I read somewhere that ATF did a fair job in quenching, being a refined mineral oil. In this application, "good enough" is probabaly good enough.

Richard L.

[David]

I know that this is an old thread and I hope that someone picks up on it. I have 57 Road Rocket that I've had for many years. I had the gearbox overhauled by SRM over 20 years ago and have started putting the bike back together over past couple of years. I'm pleased to say that it's very near to completion. Yesterday, I started building the clutch. I went for a Triumph 4 spring cush-drive clutch. The push rod engages with the clutch face plate by the use of a small 'Top Hat' shaped fitting. At the outset, the clutch rod appeared to be too short, but delving further, I have found references in a BSA Service Manual to the fact that there is a steel ball that sits in between the grub screw in the clutch operation arm and the end of the rod. (gearbox end)  I can't seem to find any reference the ball in any BSA manuals and yet there is a consensus amongst friends that the ball should be there. I'm wondering if I should just find a ball of suitable size and drop it into the shaft prior to inserting the clutch rod. I eagerly await any advice please? Thanks.

[bsa-bill]

used to be a common mod to cut the pushrod in two and insert a ball in the centre to allow some movement, however you may be talking about the ball in the end of the pushrod adjuster as seen in this pick (65-3403) and available here for a little bit more than a fiver

http://www.draganfly.co.uk/index.php/bsa/bsa/a710--b3133--c101112--m202133/category/909-4-spring-triumph-type-with-cush-drive

other suppliers are available also

[David]

Bill, I can't see a ball in the picture. Is it captive in the adjuster of does it just drop in?

[bsa-bill]

yes captive, I think I read on here of it being replaced (anyone aware of how to) but for the price I would not consider it worthwhile, from memory (dodgy) I think I replaced the whole thing last job I did (everything in the pic except the lever)

[David]

I had the gearbox refurbished and presume that they replaced it. I will have to take off the inspection panel and have a look. I was reluctant to do it because it was sealed with compound.

[ellis]

Hi David,

Open it up and take a look to be sure. Just slacken the clutch cable off and turn the arm out and you will see the adjuster and the ball bearing is peened on to the adjuster thread. If not I got mine from Draganfly in Bungay Suffolk Tel 01986 894798 for about a fiver. Just a light smear of gasket goo is all the cover plate needs. 

[chaterlea25]

Hi David,
The adjusting screw will need to be set once the bike is together,
the angle of the arm/ cable and the alignment of the adjusting screw to the pushrod is vital to get a good
clutch operation
Do a forum search and or look up the relavent service sheet

John

[duTch]

I will have to take off the inspection panel and have a look. I was reluctant to do it because it was sealed with compound.

 Don't be scared to remove an inspection cover, that's what they're for ; and you'll need to take it off to check if there's oil in there, and add if necessary.

[RichardL]

I think Dutch means that you will check for oil by removing the overflow indicating plug from the gearbox cover and adding a bit of oil until some comes out of that hole. So, David, that's one sealed plate that will be coming off somewhat regularly. 

Richard L.

[duTch]

 

I think Dutch means that you will check for oil by removing the overflow indicating plug from the gearbox cover and adding a bit of oil until some comes out of that hole. So, David, that's one sealed plate that will be coming off somewhat regularly.

Richard L.

 But in addition, the Inspection cover can be easily removed periodically to inspect if there is a good amount of oil in there ...(note to self )

[David]

Thanks to all that replied to my quest. I have the gearbox cover off and I realise that the ball is actually captive inside the grub screw. I kept hearing about the ball and assumed that it was a separate item. The rod is 11 9/16" and is too short. I have to get the 12" one. Thank you all again. David.

[RichardL]

You could cut in half and put two 1/4" ball bearings in the miidle, then, trim one section to fit. Don't forget to harden four ends.

Richard L.