Gearbox or clutch problem

[GFlash]

Have problems with the gears that are stuck it is difficult to switch to a lower gear on my BSA A10 with 6 spring clutch and most difficult is it to change down from fourth gear but if I'm engine braking before I will change down there will be no problem, it gets worse as it warmed up properly, and it is also difficult to find neutral with the engine running.

[muskrat]

 G'day GFlash,
                   sort the clutch out first, it's dragging. Caused by bad spring adjustment and/or notched grooves in basket and center, or warped plates. Good excuse to pull down and clean & inspect.
 What type of box, plunger or s/arm ?
Cheers

[duTch]

Hiya Flash,
      More than likely what Musky said, but somewhere(maybe with the Guzzi- similar) I've experienced the cable adjuster on the gearbox inner cover being too far in and interfering with and restricting travel thereby disallowing the operating arm to fully disengage the clutch.
 May not be the case here, but worth keeping in mind??  cheers, duTch

[muskrat]

 Good point Dutch. Your exposing my fault (one of many) of not thinking of the little simple things and go straight to the guts.
GFlash, after adjusting free play of the cable, does the hand lever come all the way into the bars? Pop the cover (oval cover, gearbox) off and check the adjuster isn't fowling, eg going in till it hits the end of the shaft. You can back off the hand lever adjustment and adjust this one. If all checks out good here it's time to attack the other side.
Cheers

[a10 gf]

it gets worse as it warmed up

The above points to the clutch as the prime suspect IMO. Inspect all the clutch parts (dents preventing plates from moving freely, warped plain plates etc) + everything from the clutch lever to the end of the clutch rod. Adjusting the 6 spring can be time consuming but worth the time spent (getting an even lift all around, very important).

Also, if there is some slight slipping when cold, plates can heat up (= expand) and then hinder proper disengaging when hot, so make sure to adjust the release mechanism\free play correctly (no slipping and correct disengaging). Just some thoughts, am hoping it gives some ideas to pursue.

[GFlash]

Thank you all for your advice, it is an A10 with s/arm, I will go through the clutch.
During earlier assembly i had problem with the clutch chainwheel (42-3054) who locked to the inner clutch plate (65-3872), I put an extra washer between the mainshaft nut and clutch sleeve (42-3107) so that it was possible to spin the clutch chainwheel when the mainshaft nut was tightened, maybe this is wrong.

[duTch]

Thanks Musky, not intending to one up or anything, and as I said, may not be applicable here.
I think when I had the issue was as I said on the Moto after doing a new cable(rare occasion!),and screwed top and bottom adjusters right in, and put the bottom (screw-on)nipple too close in without adjusting the pushrod adjuster in/out a bit to provide enough travel. At least on the bezza's, you'd surely notice the angle of the arm, and they're easier to get at without doing handstands!!
GeeFlash,I hope it sorts easy, as I'm sure it will cheers fer now duTch

GeeFLash-Your post came as I was doing mine, I've distanced myself from S/A clutches these days, so almost foreign lingo there-sorry, but hope you sort it easy.

[duTch]

Hi GeeFlash,
              Through curiousity I had a look and going by the chainwheel # seems yours is a '54-'57??, same looking 6 spring chainwheel for '58 on has different part# 42-3223. Probably same part-different #, but worth checking??
 Same other bits though, inner plate on G'box side of chainwheel??
I'd check out that other washer- guess you gotta be there tho'?
  That's the same clutch I had before,which fell off shaft on the Burringbar Range about 2am on the way to Sydney in '76 which is partly why I like the plunger.

Cheers duTch