12 volt replacement regulator

[Guy Wilson]

I'm getting reasonably close to starting my bike and discovering all the other things I didn't know...
I've converted to 12v negative earth and have a Cargo replacement regulator
http://www.hcdk.com/Default.aspx?ID=7&GroupID=Regulators254&ProductID=130675&replacing=LUCAS#LUCAS

The old regulator has four wires, a green one from the field of the generator, a yellow one from the D on the generator, a purple one that goes to the ammeter and a forth one that goes to earth.  

The replacement has has three spade terminals, as per the link above and the attached instruction sheet as to which wire goes where etc.

D+ appears to come from the generator (D) DF comes from the field of the generator and the remaining D- is the earth.  There appears to be no connection for the wire from the ammeter? Any suggestions?

Also, should I also put an inline fuse one the circuit from the generator?

Many thanks,

Guy

[iansoady]

I must say I've never come across these and a google on the associated Lucas part number suggests that it was originally fitted to a Volvo car.

I suspect that it may be for an AC generator rather than a dynamo but am probably wrong.....

[Guy Wilson]

Thanks, I'm haunted by volvos...

[Guy Wilson]

my terminology's left wanting...I should have said dynamo rather than generator. Its a 1954/4 GF. I think i need to find a regulator with 4 pins at least...
Guy.

[RichardL]

Very popular amongst forum members and running excellently on my bike at 6V, positive earth; good for 6V or 12V operation but you must specify earth polarity.  http://dynamoregulators.com/dvr2.php

Richard L.

[Guy Wilson]

I have a ?New Era? regulator from a Nissan that may work. It has the following wires poking out of it. Do any of you electrical people out there know if it would work and if so, which wire I connect to what? Electricity is not my strong point yet, sparks are....and stuff is not so easily available off the shelf in Kenya...

All the wires are white with a colour stripe. They basically translate as follows:

Blue: neutral,
Green: field,
Black: Earth
White:  +12v ( to battery)
Yellow battery charging indicator
Red: ignition

The above code is pulled of the web.
Questions:
Does the Blue (neutral) connect to the ?D? output on the dynamo?
Does the White go to the battery via the ammeter?
Is the Yellow for the charging light an optional extra and therefore  not necessary to connect?
Is the red to the ignition also an optional extra and therefore  also not necessary to connect?

Many thanks,

Guy

[iansoady]

I'm struggling a bit with this.

Virtually all cars made in the last 50 years or so use alternators rather than dynamos, and I would guess your Nissan is such. The charging control is entirely different and will not work with a dynamo. Unless you can find a voltage regulator / cutout from something like an old Austin or Morris with a dynamo you're doomed to failure IMO. Even if you can find one of them, the field windings on the dynamo would have been different so will not control your dynamo properly (although would work after a fashion). You're looking for something marked FADE (field ammeter dynamo earth) or FAED.

I appreciate where you are and the need to make do and mend (and I have great respect for some of the improvised solutions people manage) but you would be better getting a solid state unit shipped out from the UK like the one manosound suggests.

[Dynamo Regulators Mike]

Manosound pointed out to me this thread and suggested I may be able to comment usefully.
So here goes.

Guy, your very best bet would be to purchase a DVR2 directly from us a Dynamo Regulators Ltd. 

Seriously from the connections on the Cargo regulator you have (not heard this name before) it should work with your dynamo with a wiring modification to the field winding. It is for so called series field connected dynamos, not shunt as standard for Lucas. You would need to move both ends of the field winding in your Lucas machine. The one from F terminal to go to the output D and brush, the end going to the body is then moved to the F terminal.
What puzzles me as well is that the regulated output, often labelled 51 or 30 seems to be missing. Perhaps you could post some photos to clarify.

I think is advisable to fit a fuse.

No insights into the Nissan regulator but agree that it is probably for an alternator.

Cheers
Mike

[Guy Wilson]

thanks to you all. It occurred to me that the Nissan regulator was for a an alternator after I posted it.. The solid state is the way to go, I agree and that's and I'll most likely get one shipped from the UK.  Most of the older common are cars fitted with a dynamo were/are + earth. I've just had a 1966 Morris traveler shipped here for a commercial that was + earth. I might get lucky and find an old Landrover negative earth regulator, but who know what condition it'll be in.
I understand more about regulators now than I did last week, so its good really..
Guy

[RichardL]

Since I have already professed the beauty of the DVR2, can't blame Mike for repeating it.   Thanks for jumping in, Mike. Though some folks do very well with mechanical voltage regulators, even of the Lucas variety, I think Ian is probably right about the likelihood of failure unless you get the perfect match and can adjust it perfectly. Failure may well mean burning out multiple batteries before deciding to buy the DVR2. Those batteries will cost a lot more than the DVR2 (AMHIK).

Richard L.

Posting regardless of another post in front of me, which I have not read.

[Guy Wilson]

I spoke to Mike yesterday and a suitable regulator is on its way to me in Kenya. Sorry I couldn't talk longer Mike, we had a movie premier last night of our feature Nairobi Half Life and I was being pulled out the door as we spoke. The bikes gives me a bit of sanity in the midst of all this..
Once I get the bike started, there will be a string of other questions I know
Thank you all for input and help.

Guy