Seeking "Fat" Girling or Armstrong rear dampers ?

[Jules]

Hi Orabanda, great looking bike!
Can you tell me what you have done to the steering head? It looks like you have replaced the stock bearing race holder with a new custom piece? My frame doesn't look a bit like yours at the top of the steering head, mine has the head race just sitting in the flared pipe. The bottom race has a welded in carrier and is very robust whereas the top one is stuffed and I'm having to get it remachined as we speak!
cheers

[orabanda]

Hi Jules,
Thanks mate for the kind words,
The head is standard, except for a set of tapered bearings.

Here are more pics hope this helps.

Having trouble getting them into thumbnail size at the moment.....grrrrr!

[Stephen Foster]

"Orobanda" , When You say You reconditioned the rear shock absorbers what can be done at home on them please ?
Are they sealed as later Girlings , etc .

Dont suppose there were any part numers , etc visible on them ?

Steve ..

[Jules]

Thanks for the great pics Orabanda, still looks like the top bearing mount on the black frame (is that the same frame now painted gold?) is the same as the bottom mount. Are they both just flared pipes shaped to hold bearing race (ie no separate parts) or are they both machined then welded into the frame tube? Mine has the bottom holder as a machined separate part welded into the tube, while the top is just the pipe flared out.........
Mine is a 1956 which also complicates the top because it also has a plate welded around it that has the steering lock pin hole in it 
cheers
PS why did you go taper roller bearings? did they fit straight in with no changes? who did you buy them from? I've got new straight bearings I bought years ago from Domiracer in USA, but I'm not convinced they are great quality.....thanks

[orabanda]

Steve,
Reconditioning the shocks involved having the rods hard chromed and ground back to original size, re-bushing the gland, and replacing the seals and o-rings.

The gland is removeable; think I had to make a tool to suit the gland.

I have made notes and drawings of the dis-assembled components, and from memory some of the seals were non standard, so I had them made to suit.

I part cad plated, and part painted the body, decorative chrome plated other parts, and painted the shrouds the original polychromatic beige.

Then add oil, bleed air out & re-assemble. Also made a jig to compress the spring without damaging the painted shrouds. Had new eye bushings made as well.

Jules, yes same frame painted gold. Both the front bown tubes were rooted, so I had them replaced. The fabricator had a jig for A10 frames, so a perfect job resulted.

I will have a look at a bare 1955 frame at the week-end, and post close-up pics of the steering bearing race holders.

Tapered bearings give better steering (more precise), and are a better bearing design all up.

They are available from several sources. I think SRM offer them, but Colin Tie (the Gold Star guru) made my set up.

When installed they increase the distance a small amount between the upper & lower yolks (think it was 2 - 3 mm).

[Jules]

thanks Orabanda, appreciate the effort, much obliged - lucky you to have a guy with an A10 frame jig too! I had my frame straightened many years ago by a well known guy in Melbourne, unfortunately I have only just got around to the rebuild to find the steering head issue, and that guy has passed away! I have found a machine shop who is looking at trying to just remachine the housing relative to the bottom housing, without adding any material  . He was confident..... , would like to understand the standard setup a bit more though if you can find some pics, cheers

[Topdad]

great looking bike Orabanda, a real credit to you.
Jules ,i've used tapered roller bearings for the last 8 yrs , just taken 'em down and after that time still excellent,just cleaned regreased and back together . I got mine from George Prew another Goldie guy but also knowledgeable about A10's also fitted his damping rods to the forks they also are good quality and I found they and the head bearings work really well, regards BobH

[Jules]

thanks Topdad, decision for me then on the bearings is whether to persue using my new standard bearings or reinvest in the taper roller - difficult to throw away good new stock unless I can fault them, then perhaps I'll look at the taper roller. Once I've got the headstock sorted so I'm confident in alignment etc, then I guess I'll find out whether the bearings are ok or not, thanks

[duTch]

 If it's any help the parts book I have for '54-'57, but only for 55/6 models lists 110 lb springs, Part#42-4299, and 130lb springs # 42-4302
 Complete units, 110lb #42-4297 & 130 lb #42-4300

The softer 110 lb springs could have either or a combination of smaller diameter wire, larger diameter O/A, or more active coil(s), if it was only the overall spring  O.D., could explain the 'fatter' appearance..??

  ...but not the 'only in '54...'..?.just a thought

[Stephen Foster]

Thanks to Everyone Who has responded .
I havent been able to find any information on these at all other than Mr Andie Hosie confirming by P.M.that they are Girling manufacture ..Thanks Andie !

At least thats a starting point .
"Orobanda" You are a very talented engineer & have done fantastic work on the "Flash".

Id really like to find a set & a pair of single sided hubs as I have most everything else except a frame & swinging arm ?

Steve..

[trevinoz]

I fit ball bearings to mine, R18 from memory.
I have to machine a recess in the lower one to fit over the stem collar. I make a spacer out of 1-1/4" OD tube to slip over the stem to prevent the bearings crushing.
It is a bit fiddly but works OK.

Trev.