oil tank (wetsumping)

[sean]

Hi
if I understand this right the oil in the tank should stay there until the feed gear in the pump draws the oil from the tank so theoretically you should be able to remove the sump drain cover and fill the tank .........just trying to see how much oil is actually draining from the tank into the sump overnight and how to cure the problem .
tia for your in put

adm edit: edited title to reflect subject of post

[a10 gf]

Hello, did you try a search? Lots of wetsumping content on the forum.

Info on searching

[rocker21]

the reason most A group twins wet sump is because of a little valve by the timing side main bearing that gets full of muck, the problem is getting at it as you have to split the crankcase to do it and it is a **** to get the little screw out but if it is done on an engine rebuild and it is thoroughly  cleaned and the ball properly seated  and the spring is ok then wet sumping stops , but without taking the engine apart it is very difficult to stop, yes you can overhaul the oil pump and that will help but oil will get past the gears in time.

[muskrat]

Just drop the sump plate off. After the initial drain of oil (about a cupfull) wipe everything and put a clean container underneath.
My '51 wetsumps at a rate of 1/4 of a cup overnight and I consider this to be excessive. Been about 25 years since the bottom end was done.
The cafe is good with no wetsumping but only a year since rebuild. The A65, don't know, don't care, ridden 2-3 times a week.
Cheers

[huddie]

Hi Sean, Wetsumping hey, welcome to the club. When I rebuilt mine I replaced the pump with a brand new one, this didn't stop the wet sumping!. I didn't know about the little ball and spring on the timing side crankcase so that was not done.
If I were you I would just accept that it wet sumps until the crankcases have to be split for some other reason.
I say this because if mine hadn't been wetsumping then I could possibly have done lots of damage to the engine, BECAUSE, if I hadn't removed the drain plug to drain the sump (bike had been stood for a good few weeks), I would not have found the small piece of thrust washer attached to the magnetic drain plug!!!. Just imagine if that or the next bit that broke up had blocked an oil way or something.
Also don't be tempted to leave the oil in the sump when you start it after it's been stood a while because it will pump the oil out of the breather and that could ruin the carpet in the front room, wifey will not be best pleased. Dont ask me how I know this.
Mine is apart now because of the thrust washer break up and I have removed the little grub screw ball and spring. I got my replacements from "DRAGANFLY". Very cheap, I bought two balls as suggested on my topic about "Thrust washers". Good little tip that.
Regards Huddie

[Minto]

I've thought about this a lot, surely if you have a 1/4 of a cupful in the sump that's a good thing as the feed to the rockers is on the return line, without any oil in the sump your top end gets starved of oil until there's enough drained down to get picked up by that wee tube. Might be wrong but I dropped my new SRM plate off yesterday to change a gasket, then watched for oil return when I started it, 5 or 6 seconds with nothing. I'm sure that's not to panic over but I'd rather have some oil up the top as soon as I start it.
Just my thoughts on it.
Jase

[berger]

i accidently starved my top end for over 70 miles when i put the oil lines on the wrong way. the bottom end was running on a little flow because i filled the tank over the return hole, as i found out later running it with the prv taken out it was getting mist, of course i had to down the whole engine but the top end had no damage and went back on after a clean up. it threw a circlip ground up the bore with the pin, put scores and hammer lines in the pistons, ruined cam and followers and big end shells took the hammer , new shells sorted it. the oil pump rattled like a bag of spanners but for curiosity i tested it and nearly blew a tube off the gauge when it ballooned out as the pressure rose to 100psi,  but i did rebuild it with srm pump and prv

[Swarfcut]

   I made a dipstick that hooks  over the filler neck, filled the tank to recommended capacity, marked the dipstick as "FULL". Pre- ride prep is to check the oil, I know how much the level drops  before it starts to smoke or splurge out on start up. So decision time before riding, either let it smoke or sump drain and recycle the oil. Depends on the level drop.

  Off the wall thought. Before setting off in a small boat, first thing to do is pump the bilge. So why not on an A10? Looked into a cheap oil transfer  pump permanently plumbed into a drain plug type sump plate, back to the tank, powered by bike 12 volt supply or external power source.  So, a clean hands solution to the more persistant offenders.

 Bit of a hammer to crack a nut, I can live with the wet sump syndrome, so never got round to doing it, but it has a certain crazy appeal.

 Must admit heart rate always drops as the standard oil return gulps into view, showing that at least half the pump is working!

 Swarfy.

[bikerbob]

I have an A7 and an A65 the A7 did wet sump quite badly in my opinion could not let it stand for more than a few days without starting or you would get oil on the garage floor on start up, fitted new ball and spring in crankcase and can now leave standing for at least 3 weeks without any problems, the A65 has never wet sumped even standing for at least 2 months. If you are worried about oil getting to the rockers after draining the sump or after an oil change then on start up remove the filler cap and place your finger over the return oil pipe hole for a few seconds this forces oil quickly up to the rockers.