Author Topic: Identifying a rattle  (Read 6224 times)

Offline muskrat

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Re: Identifying a rattle
« Reply #45 on: 15.02. 2013 21:30 »
 I'd push the new ones in first and see how much if any has to be removed. I doubt the Scott site is talking about L/E bushes as I would never hit/tap a little end for fear of bending the rod or deforming the big end shells (DAHIK). If using an expanding reamer I'd put it in small and carefully expand it till it seats and then mic the blades each side and adjust to the desired size a little at a time.
Clean rag stuffed in the cases then more rag placed over and taped to the rods.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
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Offline Brian

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Re: Identifying a rattle
« Reply #46 on: 15.02. 2013 21:50 »
If you do buy a reamer to do it yourself buy a good quality known brand one. Do not buy a cheaper Chinese or Indian one. There are some tools where quality is very important and you just can not make do with a cheaper one, reamers are one example of that.

Offline K1100

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Re: Identifying a rattle
« Reply #47 on: 15.02. 2013 22:04 »
Understood Muskrat...  Once I've got the crankcase mouth suitably closed off I'll clamp the con-rods in a softwood frame  to take the strain of the reaming.

Brian ... It's amazing how many new tools you end up with when you start these projects. I've just ordered an inside/outside micrometer which I am sure I will need, and the ream comes next. I got stuck bleeding the K1100 abs last month and now have a vacuum bleed pump ... it's always the same, in the end the price of a new bit of kit seems nothing compared to what you will spend just in transport if you have to take the job somewhere. That's what I tell my wife, anyway.
I take your point exactly about quality. I think it applies to tools almost more than anything else i can think of because you can get caught twice - the tool doesn't last and the job is spoiled.




Thanks ......

Offline muskrat

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Re: Identifying a rattle
« Reply #48 on: 16.02. 2013 05:52 »
 On the money Brian. I just ordered an expanding reamer for the valve guides. Could have got one for $30 landed but got a good one for $90.
I have to use BBQ tongs to get to the bottom of my pockets.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
Australia
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Offline K1100

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Re: Identifying a rattle
« Reply #49 on: 06.03. 2013 20:10 »
This where I'm at with solving the rattle. The barrels are bored to +60 by a reputable company that wouldn't do the job until they had a piston to measure; a set of pistons supplied by a reputable company that warned me not to take the barrels anywhere that wanted a piston before they would do the job. "Just tell them to bore it to manufacturer's spec" is what he said but I wasn't brave enough so the boring has been done to suit the GPM pistons. New small end bushes not yet installed but I now have the British-made adjustable reamer and what I think is the essential extra component - the reamer pilot. That should make it possible to ream both bushes 100% in line because the pilot sits in the distant bush holding the reamer straight while the first bush is reamed, and then you swap sides to cut the 2nd bush using the pilot in the first. That's the theory,anyway.

I also found that one cam follower was worn through the hardening, and SRM sent me an exchange Stellited follower by return post.

So far that's £170 for pistons, £70 for rebore, £80 for reamer, £40 for pilot, £20 for bushes, £33 for follower .... £413, which is heading into "hide from my wife" territory, so at the moment I'm doing up the bathroom.....