How much paint?

[bikemadinspain]

Hi could anybody please advise me about how much paint I would need to spray the bike complete back to black. I have the colour code and have found a coy selling it but is 1000ml enough and how much lacker would I require. From looking at the dragonfly websight it looks llike I do not need to use a primer!! is this correct?
Also the toolbox etc I have read previously about them needing a metal laquer or plating what is correct ?

any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks      

adm edit: 'screaming' (capitals) in title removed.

[bsa-bill]

A friend got paint to spray his Flash, pretty sure there was more than a litre but no idea what if any he had left, but defo too much is better than running out.

Now your choice entirely ( and others will likely comment) but personally I prefer the finish of Black when it's a solid colour and no lacquer, Black above all others takes a great shine if progressively rubbed down starting with rubbing down compound and then finer and finer cutting polishes then a good wax, let the paint harden for a week or two before starting the process.

[bikemadinspain]

Thanks Bill, ref the spraying I will be getting it done by a proffesional in Spain (I say that loosely) it will be done between his many holidays and sleeps in the afternoon!!

I was after the amount as I am expecting a big bill from them and if, which I imagine, they give me a silly price for the paint I can get i sent over. Do u know anyhing about spraying the tinware and the undercoat....

Many thanks

[bsa-bill]

By no means am I an expert in the art, probably better members here to comment, the mate I mention made a superb job of his Flash, think he might have got the paint from Polly Palmer (Bri-Tie) here in UK.
He used a compressor and spray gun, when I did mine I just had aerosol cans, mine came out ok ish but not as good as his.
The one factor that fell foul of was due to a stumble in the home made tent I had erected for spraying I had to do the tool box again and needed more cans, of course the colour was slightly different, not to big a thing as the toolbox as you know is not right up against anything else the same colour and nobody noticed the slight difference but me but it did and still does bug me a bit.
Would think spraying in Spain with all that sunshine should be good, here in UK getting a series of similar days weather is not the norm and it makes a difference.

I think the one thing that everyone will agree on is that preparation is the be all and end all of a good paint, if the prep is not perfect the final job wont be either

All the best with it

[metalflake11]

One litre should be plenty. I put twenty five (or so) top coats on mine and used less than two and  half litres in total. (not including primer/filler). At least eighteen coats were laquer which is notorious for wastage.

[trevinoz]

Bikemad,
                   You definitely need a primer, I usually use a primer/filler which leaves a thick coat and slight imperfections will be filled after you rub back.
If the tinware has more serious defects, you should use a spray putty.
Dents should be knocked out and filed smooth and plastic putty can be used to fill minor scratches etc.
Your finished job will only be as good as your preparation.
Any scratches and pitting evident in the primed state will be seen in the finished job.

Trev.

[bikemadinspain]

Thanks gents all great info, thanks to Oz ref the primer, I was not convinced about not using one myself. I can now have a confident chat with the sprayer and sound like I know what I am talking about!!!   

[BSA_54A10]

I now use POR 15 as the base coat on every steel thing I paint.
It is a chassis coating based on a furane resin which hardens in the presence of water it chemically bonds to the oxygen trapped in the oxide layer on the surface of the steel.
Once cures fully it is impossible to remove and creates a water impervious layes so there will never be any chance of rusting.
Down side is that is not UV stable so needs to be top coated with a paint that has very good UV adsorbson / reflection.
Usually brushed on with disposable brushes it is thinner than water so dries out totally flat ( no brush marks ).
Better still it bonds to rust so it can be used to repaint rims & will get in to the inside of the rolled edge and prevent further rusting.
A 4 oz tin will do the entire bike.

As to the amount of top coat you will need it depends upon how many coats you apply and how many paint sessions as you will use more paint cleaning up than spraying.
I use a 100ml touch up gun, as you get a lot less overspray & wastage.
With this much paint I can do a tank & both guards, 1 medium to light coat
I usually thin all of the paint and put it in a 500g glass coffee jar ( or 2 ) covered by a piece of heavy cling wrap before the lid then turned upside down.
In this state it will keep for a very long time.
The first coat gets thinned even more.

Because I am a little frugal I usually return any unused paint to the coffe jar. ) bad practice & frowned upon but I have never had a problem with it.

Buy the colour coat before you buy the clear coat and use the same type & brand of paint.
That way you will know exactly how much paint to get.

[bikemadinspain]

Fantastic advice many thanks for your time, ref the frugal, makes sense to me I am a tight Yorkshireman!!!

All the best

[BSA_54A10]

Wait till you see the price of POR 15.
Do not buy a big can.
Once it has been opened it will start to go hard so it does not keep well.
Because it is a chemical reaction, it will not form a protective skin like most solvent based paints, rather a solid plug wich is not much use unless you play hockey.