Battery connectors wanted

[Greybeard]

Hya,

I'm wanting to improve the connections to my bike battery.
The battery I've bought has push-on tag type connectors that I don't really trust. I'm planning to solder wires onto the tags and have a short cable from the battery to a plug connector under the saddle of the bike.
I'd also modify my battery charger to have a plug fitted so it's easy to connect up and charge the battery while the bike is off the road.
What I'd like to hear from you guys is a UK source for suitable in-line waterproof plugs and sockets.

Thankingyou.

Graybeard

[lawnmowerman]

Hi Neil

I usually use http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php for electrical accessories.

Jim

[iansoady]

I've used VWP for years. However, these people: http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Econoseal_Connectors.html have a much better range of connectors. No personal experience though.

[Greybeard]

Thanks  iansoady; these look just the job: http://goo.gl/6OlCb

Graybeard

[Greybeard]

The bad news is VWP have a minimum order amount of £15.96 that is twice the cost of the connectors, £8.16:(
The good news is I found similar or the same connectors on Fleabay much cheaper, even with postage: http://goo.gl/erv6a

Graybeard

[iansoady]

Well spotted - as I mentioned I hadn't actually used them but had them as a reference (more for my Hinckley Tiger than the A10).

That ebay source you've pointed out is a good one & now bookmarked for future reference.

[unclerob]

Hi Neil, I do a lot of marine electrical work and use very similar connectors, they're very good but I'd check the current rating as I think they may be a bit low for what you have in mind? From memory those ones are only about 8 or 10A.
Another good source for electrical bits and pieces is a firm called Durite, they have an online catalogue and most big motor factors keep a lot of their stuff in stock ...
http://www.durite.co.uk/Catalogue.aspx

[Greybeard]

Hi Unclerob,
I currently have 10amp fuses on both sides of the battery. I've ridden with headlights on without blowing a fuse. What maximum current would you expect to see in a mag ignition A10?

Graybeard

[unclerob]

Hi Neil, it depends on the wattage of bulbs etc and battery voltage but approx 12 or 13A on 6v system with everything in use. Fuses have two ratings though, the amount of current they will take continuously and the amount that will blow it, generally about twice as much, so a fuse rated for 10A will blow at around 20A.
I think that bearing that in mind the connector plugs you're using need to be capable of taking a load of at least 15A minimum, if they're the same as I normally use they are rated at 8A (have just been and checked!) which won't be enough!

[Greybeard]

I've just put my digital multimeter in series with the battery lead. With lights and brake light on I'm seeing just over 7 amps but I don't know if that is a good test.

Graybeard

[unclerob]

Hi again Neil! The formula for any circuit is watts = amps x volts, so if you have a 6v system with 7A current then your bulbs should total 42W, if 12v then 84W...
When deciding what rating of fuse to put in a circuit you'd normally calculate the total wattage of everything in that cicuit, divide that figure by the voltage, which would give the amount of current, then use a fuse with a rating slightly higher than that.
In the case of a connector though for safety you'd want to be sure that its maximum current rating is round about twice the max possible current in the circuit because an overloaded fuse will just blow whereas an overloaded connector plug will get hot and even possibly eventually melt!

[Greybeard]

...From memory those ones are only about 8 or 10A.

I've just checked. They have a 14 amp rating, (at 60v DC max).

Graybeard

[a10 gf]

I've just put my digital multimeter in series with the battery lead. With lights and brake light on I'm seeing just over 7 amps but I don't know if that is a good test.

That's a good test (provided the multimeter can cope with the current, they usually go to max 10A). A small clamp meter (that's the one I've got) is very practical, no need to disconnect wiring to test under load, and reads lots of A's if needed (200A dc or ac for the one in the pic).

...a little offtopic, but related.