Author Topic: Bike Rebuild  (Read 2454 times)

Offline Oscarmark

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Bike Rebuild
« on: 26.03. 2013 22:50 »
I now have my frame and swinging arm along with all the mountings back from powder coating and will start re-assembly shortly. I have new engine mounting bolts and a new wiring loom... any advice / tips about re-assembly ie what to start first. The engine only had the rocker box removed along with primary drive casings etc..

I thought:
Swinging arm
Stand
Forks
Wheels

Gearbox
Engine

But I have never done this before and you guys are the experts!!


Offline chicago

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #1 on: 26.03. 2013 23:16 »
Hi there fella, I'm no expert but I would have gone with the engine gearbox first. There is a chance I could be wrong though. All the best and I hope it all goes well. Chicago
Location: north west madchester.
Preferred location: somewhere warm and dry.
Bike: 1953 plunger Longstroke engine.

Online KiwiGF

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #2 on: 27.03. 2013 05:20 »
Hi oscarmark yr plan looks good to me, are you building the bike on  bench or on its stand? Or blocks of wood under the frame rails like i did it
New Zealand

1956 A10 Golden Flash EA7-168x, CA10 913x, left BSA together for Liverpool, 5th Dec 1955.

1949 B31 rigid “400cc hot rod” (favourite bike)

1949 C11 rigid, but why!!! (cos it was cheap)

1937 B21, missing parts so mission impossible?

1952 Armstrong Siddeley Whitley for rainy days (with wife).

GL1800 Goldwing not sure why, maybe cos it always starts

Offline renos-a10

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #3 on: 27.03. 2013 07:06 »
Hi Oscarmark !!

 I am not an expert but i am working on bikes and i rebuild 2 bikes until now. If you start from engine and gearbox or you start from frame my opinion is the same.
 I like to start from stand , forks and wheels because some times i want to remove the bike from my garage so that the way i start like this.

 Good luck !!!
Renos
1954 BSA A10 Plunger
Cyprus

Offline muskrat

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #4 on: 27.03. 2013 09:00 »
G'day Oscarmark.
 I like to do the same as Renos for the same reason. Main stand, swingarm, rear guard, rear wheel & shocks, steering head, forks, front guard, wheel. Then all the fidely bits, wire harness, guages, bars, levers, oil tank, tool box, lights, tank & seat. Then the gearbox and motor, primary, ignition, pipes.
The best bit is when she fires into life.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR, '76 XT500, '77 AG175 '83 CB1100F, '81 CB900F project.
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Offline Oscarmark

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #5 on: 27.03. 2013 09:17 »
Thanks a million guys.......... I do have the bike on a motorcycle bench and thought if I had a rolling chassis it would be easier. I have just bought a new battery tray and oil tank mount which looks a little confusing. I am working from a PDF File A10 Rocket Goldstar Owners Handbook and a Haynes Manual for for A7 and A10 Twins... the latter being a little too generic. I have seen pics (on this forum) of useful exploded diagrams showing every washer, pin and gasket. Where would I get something like that?

I will be posting some pictures of the re-build shortly.

Best regards

Mark

Online KiwiGF

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #6 on: 27.03. 2013 09:40 »
Hi, you really need  the bsa parts book for year of your bike which is probably where the diagrams come from but a good substitute is the draganfly web site.

I also was confused by the oil tank clamp with rubber and curved washers etc i just put it together so it worked and pulled the tank against the frame but im pretty sure its not like the book says it should be!

A rolling chassis looks like progress so is a good idea, i think the only major parts that must go on in sequence are gearbox then engine then primary rest is up to preference

Edit, front guard before wheel as well
New Zealand

1956 A10 Golden Flash EA7-168x, CA10 913x, left BSA together for Liverpool, 5th Dec 1955.

1949 B31 rigid “400cc hot rod” (favourite bike)

1949 C11 rigid, but why!!! (cos it was cheap)

1937 B21, missing parts so mission impossible?

1952 Armstrong Siddeley Whitley for rainy days (with wife).

GL1800 Goldwing not sure why, maybe cos it always starts

Online metalflake11

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #7 on: 27.03. 2013 17:20 »
I will add to the popular concensus here. Get yourself a rolling chassis with everything working, and plop the engine and box in last of all.
England N.W
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England

Offline Oscarmark

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #8 on: 13.05. 2013 20:27 »
Some pics to show how the build is going....

Offline muskrat

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #9 on: 13.05. 2013 20:56 »
 Lookin' great mate. It's a joy putting them back together all nice and shiny.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR, '76 XT500, '77 AG175 '83 CB1100F, '81 CB900F project.
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Offline renos-a10

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #10 on: 14.05. 2013 07:16 »
Very Nice man !!!! I would like to see next pic on road :)
1954 BSA A10 Plunger
Cyprus

Offline Topdad

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #11 on: 14.05. 2013 13:13 »
Very nice Mark, is that 22mm pipe insulation you are using to protect the frame ?,very good and cheap idea I also use the same stuff for additional vibe insulation on the top frame member where the tank slips on ,works very well, keep up the good work, regards BobH.
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Offline Oscarmark

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #12 on: 14.05. 2013 13:38 »
Yes Bob, I was a bit worried about marking the new powder coat during the re-build, so I covered everything I could. You are quite right about the tank mount. I have 'dry' fitted the tank to the frame and the 22mm foam allows a snug fit. Should I fix the foam to the frame with cable ties or black gaffer tape?

Regards

Mark

Online Billybream

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #13 on: 14.05. 2013 18:13 »
Hi Mark.
Its great to see progress, I like the idea of using the pipe insulation, but I find masking tape help,s prevent accidents on painted parts, also thick grease is useful. Already mentioned that pipe insulation is good for under the tank, just wrap around top tube of frame, keeps wiring tidy and protected, I secure with cable tie,s. The BSA picture book for your bike year is a must, still get them "BSA Spares, catalogue, covers run of frame and engine noes.
1960 Super Rocket, owned since 1966, back on the road 2012 after being laid up for 29yrs.

Offline Topdad

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #14 on: 15.05. 2013 10:23 »
Good morning Mark, either way i've always used tape 'cause in some places i had to double up on the insulation but as long as it's secure until the tank is fitted then you can forget about it . Also I put it around the tank mounting bolt receiver as mine vibrated from there and I didn't want to encourage splits and finally don't forget the the front flat strap which runs under the front of the tank fixed to the 2 studs provided . A very useful insulation for that is used car tyre valves seats where they cut off the old valve rubber from the rim,I go to my local tyre fitting bay and collect a handful every now and then .I fit one under and one over each end of the front strap a flat washer and a spring washer and bingo another vibe sorted and hopefully the tank won't split. Best of luck with the build ,keep the pictures coming and if not sure about anything ask, there will always be someone who can help and who won't mind helping , this forum is full of great people Regards BobH.
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