Author Topic: Bike Rebuild  (Read 2858 times)

Online bsa-bill

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #15 on: 15.05. 2013 10:50 »
Hi Mark - nice bike well done
re Cable ties or tape - both good but if using cable ties just be aware of where the little ratchet bit sits, plastic is more abrasive than many people think
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco

Offline Oscarmark

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #16 on: 15.05. 2013 11:13 »
Thanks for all the advice.... keep it coming!! I like the idea of the car tyre bits on the tank mount... I do have a load of spare speedo and tacho mounting rubbers which may work well.
I am going to add the new wiring loom next. What is the favoured route? I can see some spaces in the frame near the headstock that look like the wiring fits through?

Still to do
Wiring, not looking forward to that, but new loom which is very well labelled (mine is 6V Positive earth)
Foot rests
Rear brake lever
Connect front and rear brakes
Fit new carb
New Siamese exhaust
Control levers and cables
Headlight
Instruments
Seat and tank and we will be there!!!

Thanks again guys, I have been a member of many forums, but this one by far is the most helpful and useful!!!

Mark


Offline Oscarmark

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Re: Bike Rebuild New pics
« Reply #17 on: 15.05. 2013 17:25 »
A couple of pics outdoors

Online muskrat

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #18 on: 15.05. 2013 20:50 »
Coming along nicely Mark.
The old turn them over and upside down handlebar trick. That's how I had mine on my A7SS racer. Who needs clip on's  *smile*.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Offline chaterlea25

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #19 on: 15.05. 2013 21:14 »
Hi Mark,
Your work is looking good *smile*
Just an observation ??? it looks as if the bracket that holds the tank anti roll rubbers has been cut short???
there are normally two sets of holes for the rubber to accomodate different tanks
Those rubbers are vital for stable tank mounting
Sometimes theres not enough room for the pipe insulation  on top of the frame causing the tank to sit too high or at a silly angle, its amazing how many badly fitted tanks you see !!!!
I have used  1/8th gasket rubber on some frames as this is all there was room for

The tank strap is intended to bolt the two sides of the tank rigidly together, make sure the strap does not foul the anti roll bracket, (maybe thats why yours is cut short???)
Sometimes a step or notch needs to be cut out from the middle of the strap

Regards
John

1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Offline RichardL

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #20 on: 15.05. 2013 21:43 »
With my 2 1/2-gallaon tank, the strap I made from 1/2" D. tube steel passes right through the bottom hole, nearly dead center.

Richard L.

Offline Oscarmark

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #21 on: 16.05. 2013 07:30 »
A little worried today... I have noticed that the clutch operating arm that comes out of the top of the gearbox seems to move back and forth with little resistance and there does not appear to be any 'spring action' in other words... If I connect the cable and pull in the clutch, the arm would not return out. What have I done / not done. The Gearbox came completely refurbed.

 *sad2*

Offline WozzA

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #22 on: 16.05. 2013 08:36 »
Hope this helps..
Did you put the Clutch push rod back inside the main shaft?  
Remove the inspection cover & check that the clutch rod Adjustment screw is touching the back of the rod. 
'51 Golden Flash Plunger
'57 Golden Flash Swingarm

Melbourne
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Offline a101960

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #23 on: 16.05. 2013 17:05 »
Quote
Sometimes a step or notch needs to be cut out from the middle of the strap
John, I have had to do that (cut a notch so that the strap will fit) why would this be needed to be done on some bikes? When I first got my bike there was no strap fitted at all probably because of that very problem. I was worried that there might have been a problem with the frame (there wasn't). Then I thought that maybe the tank studs were misaligned because everything else lined up. The tank is an RGS tank by the way. Seems to me BSA had some wierd practices.

John

Offline Oscarmark

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #24 on: 16.05. 2013 17:11 »
Hi Wozza,
I did put the rod back in and saw it move in and out when the arm was moved. I really hope I don't have to remove the primary and clutch assembly!!!

Online muskrat

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #25 on: 16.05. 2013 20:31 »
 I'd guess the rod isn't long enough. Take the inspection cover off, moove the adjuster back and push the rod till it contacts the pressure plate. There should be about 1/4" left sticking out of the mainshaft.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Offline chaterlea25

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #26 on: 16.05. 2013 20:34 »
Hi, a101960
I dont really know why the strap needs modification on different bikes  ???? ????
maybe tanks and frames from different years or models????
Probably never know what has happened in the last 50 odd years!!!!!

Regards
John
1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Offline wilko

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #27 on: 17.05. 2013 00:27 »
New friction plates can cause excessive clearance. Cut your pushrod in half and put a ball bearing in between the two pieces., if you don't have enough adjustment. Doing this right now with a recorked six spring.

Offline Oscarmark

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #28 on: 18.05. 2013 19:26 »
Having heard some nightmares about getting a Siamese exhaust to fit.... I have 'dry fitted' mine and all looks good........ everything seems to line up nicely.
Going to try and sort this clutch issue tomorrow. Here are some pics of the exhaust.

Cheers

Mark

Offline Oscarmark

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Re: Bike Rebuild
« Reply #29 on: 18.05. 2013 19:27 »
And pic 2