Author Topic: Salt Flash....An A10 for Bonneville.  (Read 14940 times)

Offline chaterlea25

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Re: Salt Flash....An A10 for Bonneville.
« Reply #45 on: 16.01. 2014 18:31 »
HI Guys
Lets hope Bernoulli got it right for the sake of Briz's bikes sexy forged pistons  *respect* *respect*
Or there will be lots of  *pull hair out* *pull hair out*

Regards
John
1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Offline Briz

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Re: Salt Flash....An A10 for Bonneville.
« Reply #46 on: 18.01. 2014 20:14 »
Yeah; it be just typical if they decided to amend the laws of physics while we weren't looking! *smile*

Heres a pic of the tank mounted:


We needed an oiltank for the turbo since we're using castor based in the engine and want to feed the turbo synthetic, and anyway we wouldn't want to bleed off any oil pressure from the bigends.
Decided to put it under the turbo to allow gravity drainback so we only need a single pump. Obviously its a bit vulnerable down there so I decided it should be made out of 3mm instead of the 2mm I have in stock.
David came up with some as I had none.
Ended up a bit more complicated than I envisaged!...



Here it is mounted:


Holds about 2 litres

We now have all the major fuel system parts; David came round with the rest of it today. We now have to figure a mounting setup that'll work and allow sensible plumbing...Not as easy as you might think...


Offline Briz

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Re: Salt Flash....An A10 for Bonneville.
« Reply #47 on: 22.01. 2014 23:21 »
Right!
Its an age thing I guess. Bound to happen. Strength cant be relied upon anymore, not in hard-work conditions.
Only answer is ..... a girdle!  *eek*
Nearly 60 years old; what you gonna do?   *sad2*



The Engine! the crankcases!...what did you think I meant???  *lol* *lol* *lol* *lol*
The cases are the weak spot in this engine. Not unknown for old cases to break just below the barrel flange.
So some extra support needed to hold things together. One or two substantial studs coming up from the crankcase; the primary plate on the LH side and the yet-to-be-done billet inner timing cover on the RH.
Thought awhile about this, its easy on a Triumph with its separate rocker boxes. And having 2 separate pieces would tend to bend the head-studs, and a bridge that goes over the top of the rocker-box would be complicated & in the way.
The answer was to mill away the fins in the middle of the head to make room for a bridge piece.



Dug out a slab-yoke offcut which was perfect:


A card pattern & a bit of bandsawing had a blank piece.


Loads of milling & fettling; doing the plug-holes here:



And its done! Only took 10 feckin' hours!  *roll*
Outer stud holes yet to be done. I'll do the bottom ends first.




Offline terryg

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Re: Salt Flash....An A10 for Bonneville.
« Reply #48 on: 23.01. 2014 07:24 »
How is it that I have lived so long without a Bridgeport?

Great stuff to see in this thread - many thanks.
Terry
'57 'SR', '59 SR, '63 RGS

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Re: Salt Flash....An A10 for Bonneville.
« Reply #49 on: 23.01. 2014 08:41 »
Nice work Briz. I went a different rout with my A7SS racer after it lifted a couple of sets of barrels. My 1st mod was to weld a 3/4" nut to the frame over the rockerbox. I screwed in a bolt with a locknut then attached a 1/2 steel plate to the four r/b bolts. Then wound the bolt down onto it till the frame just started to flex  *eek*. That fixed it but I wasn't happy so my 2nd mod was to through bolt the head & barrels to the cases using the four outside head bolt holes moved outwards 1/2 a hole. No more lifting barrels, just broken s/j cranks  *problem*.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
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Offline Briz

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Re: Salt Flash....An A10 for Bonneville.
« Reply #50 on: 23.01. 2014 12:36 »
I did consider your method Musky when you first mentioned it, but it doesn't help strengthen the crankcases, which was my main concern as the ally barrels have masses of material in them and are probably OK.
The frame-bracing method is also interesting, but with our twin 1.25" toptubes, I'm inclined to imagine they would flex; the motor goes BANG, the cases break and the tubes flex up & spring it all back down! *lol*

Offline a10 gf

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Re: Salt Flash....An A10 for Bonneville.
« Reply #51 on: 23.01. 2014 12:42 »
Briz, impressive work!


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Offline Stephen Foster

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Re: Salt Flash....An A10 for Bonneville.
« Reply #52 on: 23.01. 2014 16:57 »
Im always impressed with You skillfull engineers .
Just wish I had Your knowledge !

Steve ..
I own a 1955/56 B.S.A Swinging Arm "Golden Flash" , had it since 1976 .

Offline Briz

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Re: Salt Flash....An A10 for Bonneville.
« Reply #53 on: 23.01. 2014 19:58 »
Thanks chaps! *smile*
One of the guys on the landracer site posted this pic of a pair of barrels:
http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=13314.0;attach=44845;image
Yikes!!!

Offline Topdad

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Re: Salt Flash....An A10 for Bonneville.
« Reply #54 on: 24.01. 2014 10:13 »
That'll take more than blue tack to put it back together again, I'm sure that won't happen to your beaut, keep up the marvelous work regards BobH *clap*
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Offline Briz

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Re: Salt Flash....An A10 for Bonneville.
« Reply #55 on: 01.02. 2014 20:47 »
We had a good example of the law of unintended consequences......
Having made the head brace, it soon became clear that spark-plug access was now impossible! I really didn't want to be taking the tank off to get at the plugs, so drastic action was called for:

Getting the holes in the right place was  ummm.. interesting!


Been making a lot of small uninteresting stuff this week, all the head studs & nuts for example:

Made the studs from grade 12.9 allen bolts. Cut the heads off & screwcut 10x1mm threads. I wanted to use fine threads to keep the root size as big as possible, what with cut threads being less good than the rolled (10x1.5) threads, so that the ones I cut were stronger than the factory rolled threads.

I made a few more than needed (bound to lose some nuts   *roll* ) So I did a bit of testing. drilled & tapped a 10mm thread thru a bit of 1" ally plate, screwed a stud in and with a spacer to replicate the head thickness, I set to with the torque wrench & micrometer.
Interesting; at 20 ft-lbs, the stud stretched .003". At 40 it stretched .005", 48 = .006". And so on every 5 ft-lbs or so stretched it another thou.
Each time, I slackened it off before the next 'pull'. At 60 ft-lbs the stud had permanently stretched half a thou, the point at which ARP fasteners reckon a fastener should be scrapped.
Kept on at it, to try & make it fail. 80 ft lbs pulled the stud .011" but it never made it to 90.

It broke where you'd expect, at the end of the coarse thread. My cut threads came thru OK. At all times, there was only 1xD of thread engagement in the nut.
So; conclusions: the studs are good enough for the job, and to get the optimum stud-stretch, which is 6 thou, a torque of 40-45 ft-lbs is needed. The thermal expansion of the ally head means we should stay on the cautious side.

The head hold-down is now almost finished. RH side yet to complete. Heres the LH:

Got started on the inner timing cover today. A bit time consuming doing all the holes. Here I am doing the hole for the intermediate pinion bush:

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Re: Salt Flash....An A10 for Bonneville.
« Reply #56 on: 02.02. 2014 06:26 »
Gee mate, now you have to find different tank badges  *eek*. Not to mention the 1/4 liter of fuel your missing. *whistle*
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
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Offline Briz

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Re: Salt Flash....An A10 for Bonneville.
« Reply #57 on: 12.02. 2014 22:44 »
I think theres still room for some sort of BSA badge!

Had word back from Matt Schuss, the tech-chief at SCTA for bikes. He says the basic ignition system I used on the bobber; using a HD pickup plate with a crank-trigger, will be fine by him. Which saves a sack of dough over having to sort out a magneto or similar. (I already have all the bits)

Been doing the billet inner timing cover and the turbo oilpump. Turned out to be a bit of a long job what with the (RH) head hold-downs too.
I added a few more holding-down fastener locations to cope with the pull of the head studs, including a 3/8 bolt where the old breather hole was.
Note the stock rotary breather is deleted and replaced by a reed-valve (off a Piaggio scooter!). This means it'll exit positive crankcase pressure whenever its there rather than when a valve opens. Exit is at the top.



The oil pump is a cut-down sportster one. I shortened it and just left the return stage. Blanked off the original outlet and turned off the drive gear & welded on a belt pulley. The job was complicated by the need for a pressure relief valve which I had to make.
First I worked out that 40psi acting on a 12mm piston made for a pressure of about 7.5 lbs. Found a likely looking spring and set a 7.5-ish lb lump of steel on it which compressed it 10mm. So I machined everything so that with 10mm piston movement, the excess pressure bleeds off back into the pump inlet side.:



Assembled:



And with the drive in place:


Offline a10 gf

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Re: Salt Flash....An A10 for Bonneville.
« Reply #58 on: 13.02. 2014 18:28 »
1st class work.
Quote
rotary breather is deleted and replaced by a reed-valve (off a Piaggio scooter!)
nice idea


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Re: Salt Flash....An A10 for Bonneville.
« Reply #59 on: 13.02. 2014 19:26 »
I use a Bunn breather (no longer available). It's two little poppet valves, one in, one out, circulates fresh air through the motor.
I'd give my right nut to have a workshop capable of that sort of work, lucky (and smart) bugga.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
Australia
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