Not charging

[a101960]

To test the dynamo output you will find it easier to disconnect the dynamo output wires at the regulator connections. The dynamo output wires shoud be coloured yellow for "D" and green for "F" The attached image shows how to test the dynamo. Join the two dynamo output wires together and connect them to a multimeter set to DC volts, or as in the picture use a spare lamp. Hope this helps
John

[Ethelred]

If you follow your link to nanocontrols you'll see detailed fitting and testing instructions for the regulator.
http://www.nanocontrols.co.uk/auto/v-reg2.htm

[duTch]

 Hi Paul, normally the blue wire should be purple, and connect between 'A' and the other end to Ammeter, but I believe some of those aftermarket jobbies make up their own codes...??
 Irrespective of the colouring, just make sure both ends of any wires connect to the relevant contacts...often a trap.!

 Also, the bRushes (they called bRushes 'cos originally they were made from wire strands, like slot car contact bRushes) are serviceable until the wires 'hang up' on the holders, but pull 'em out and give them a clean- as you say, move the spring aside.

 Cheers ,duTch

[trevinoz]

Paul,
           The wires are held in position by the retainer plate which has a screw in the centre.
Loosen the screw and pull the plate back as you go. It will come away but the screw will stay in the plate as it is threaded in. Pull the wires out.
BUT, it will be easier to do the test at the regulator, just disconnect the "D" & "F" wires and join.
Any decent multi-meter will suffice, use the 20V scale. (DC).
The brush length looks OK.

Trev.

[PaulC]

Thank you all for your replies. Very helpful. I'll let you know how I get on.

Paul

[A10Boy]

You might find it easier to pull the F and D wires from the regulator and do the test at that end, [connect together and bulb or voltmeter] it saves having to do a bridge link at the dynamo end. You will only need to test the dynamo end if it doesnt show good volts to eliminate a broken wire between Dynamo and Reg.

A friend of mine against my better judgement and advice, bought a Wassup regulator for his AJ which I fitted. Unbelievably the wiring colours dont match with the Lucas F A D E colour code which was used on 90% of brit bikes of the era! Luckily I didnt trust it and the diagramme was useless, typical of them, but we got there without blowing it up.

[PaulC]

Well, I took the F and D wires from the regulator and used a circuit tester to make sure the wire at the regulator responded to the wire at the dynamo. And they both did, so no breakages. I then connected the F&D together, started the bike and checked for charge with the (new) voltmeter - no reading at all, even with the revs high enough for the bike to start walking backwards on its centre stand.

So to the brushes. Because of the orientation of the dynamo I could only get one out without removing the whole unit and that's beyond me at the moment. I presume it just pulls out when the band round it is loosened. Anyway, I cleaned the one I could get at and tried again - still no reading.

I put it all back together and went for a long ride instead, followed by a beer!

I think trip to Leominster is on the cards. Can it be tested in situ or will I have to remove it and take it separately? If so it'll have to wait until the end of September.

Thanks for your help.

Paul

[Greybeard]

Dave Lindsley will want to put the dynamo on his test rig. I took my dynamo, (and chain) off and made a quick blanking arrangement so I could ride there.

[PaulC]

Thanks Graybeard. Is it easy to remove and refit?

[Greybeard]

Disconnect the dynamo wires.
After removing the timing cover and cleaning out the old grease undo the dynamo strap and rotate the dynamo to loosen its chain.
There is no need to remove the sprocket on the dynamo.

If you are going to run the engine without the dynamo, remove the dynamo chain. To remove the chain you have to remove the large dynamo drive sprocket. I used a mixture of leverage and light taps to free the sprocket from its taper. You can now remove the sprocket and chain.

I was not able to wiggle my dynamo through the engine plates, (I don't know if it's supposed to be possible) so I removed the drive side engine plate. Be carefull to look after the large cork washer that seals the dynamo to the timing cover unless you are going to replace it.

I made a blanking assembly by cutting a disk of ally sheet to cover the timing chest dynamo mating surface and held it in place by screwing it to a piece of wood inside the case.

When reassembling rotate the dynamo body to set the chain tension; while tightening the dynamo strap make sure to press the dynamo into the timing case to seal it against the cork washer. Check the dynamo chain so it has no more than about 1/4" slack. You'll need to rotate the engine and check the chain in various positions to ensure the chain is not too tight or too loose.

Put a large glob of soft grease in the dynamo chain-case. It might be useful to lay the bike over while doing this so grease doesn't run onto the timing cover mating surfaces. I use Hylomar Blue for sealing gaskets.

Engine plate on, reconnect dynamo, jobs a goodun!

I'm expecting someone with a lot more experience than me to tell me of my errors in the above!

[a101960]

I would just add that the dynamo should pass through the engine plates. It definatley does on mine. And I would advocate using grease on both sides of the timing cover gasket to seal it. That is what I use and it has always worked for me. If you use grease the gasket can normally be used several times without needing replacement. And don't forget like I did to get an old piece of cardboard, and punch some holes in it so that you know which screws go back where!

John

[PaulC]

Thanks for the comprehensive instructions. I think I'll leave this for a winter project when I won't be wanting to ride my Rocket, so I won't need to make the blanking plate.

Paul

[Greybeard]

If the blanking is worrying you I expect duct tape would be ok if the metal was cleaned properly.

[PaulC]

It is now!!

Thanks to your helpful responses, I summoned up the courage to have a go at removing my dynamo and regulator so I could take them both to Dave Lindsley. This is by far and away the most adventurous mechanical work I've undertaken and I wouldn't have tried it without your instructions. A big big thank you to you all.

When Dave put it on his test bench it turned out that the dynamo was actually OK (other than soft brushes), but the regulator was suspect. Dave fitted new brushes and I bought a shiny new electronic regulator. I refitted everything yesterday and this morning and can now ride with dipped beam all the time, with the ammeter showing the battery taking charge. Chuffed to bits.

Thanks again.

Paul

[Greybeard]

Great news Paul. I'm happy that this forum was able to help you.