Author Topic: wet sumping cure  (Read 3748 times)

Offline a101960

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Re: wet sumping cure
« Reply #15 on: 07.08. 2013 19:22 »
I have bought products from SRM, and I have been happy with the quality of those products, but I would not necessarily  accept what SRM says as being always strictly correct. SRM are good at what they do, but they are not infallible. This is especially relevant on the subject of oil and lubrication. I stand to be corrected if it is no longer the case, but it certainly used to be the case that if you had a crank end feed conversion done, or an engine rebuilt by SRM they stated that  if you used anything other than mono grade oil in your newly built engine, or fitted an in line oil filter then the warranty will be invalidated. I find this bizarre in the extreme. Oil technology has advanced considerably since mono grade oils were the norm. Indeed in the final years BSA were recommending the use of multi grade oil in their motorcycles. BSA were also fitting external oil filters  I have an external oil filter fitted to my RGS that uses the filter element from the Rocket 3.  I fail to understand the logic of why they would make such a stipulation. I also have an SRM sump plate. It is a nice piece of kit, but it comes supplied with a set of Allen screws that are intended to hold it in place. I substituted the screws for studs (the BSA method of fixing into place) because continuous screwing and unscrewing the screws to gain access to the mesh filter for cleaning purposes would eventually degrade the crank case threads. Like I said SRM are good, but they do not always know best.

John

Offline lillygunny

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Re: wet sumping cure
« Reply #16 on: 08.08. 2013 00:08 »
Hi Colin. I live in NC, USA where summer temps are mostly low 90s, so Gary said to run 50 wt in the summer and stay with the 40 wt in the winter. I had put an SRM oil pump in my RGS last summer, and just sent it back for their anti-wet sumping update, but sadly this did not cure the wet sumping. Gary was surprised. I will try the oil change-I use 50 wt in my Gold Star but it does not wet sump at all. Mind, these are the recommended oils in the owner's manuals.
I wish I could ride this bike daily as has been suggested. Would not be practical with my job.
I ride weekends unless it rains, then it might be 2 weeks and the sump will have about 12 ozs.
Ron

Online muskrat

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Re: wet sumping cure
« Reply #17 on: 08.08. 2013 11:05 »
G'day Ron.
 My '51 wet sumps a little more than yours. If it gets any worse I'll bite the bullet and split the cases to replace the ball and spring. I just live with the fact and drain her before rides. If I'm in a rush (last Sunday) there's a 5oz puddle to mop up when I get home.
Next time I'll do the mod to put the ball and spring behind the pump (A65 type).
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, 88 FXST .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Offline wilko

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Re: wet sumping cure
« Reply #18 on: 09.08. 2013 00:45 »
A ball and spring won't do shit. The oil can still leak past the oilpump gears and spindle.

Offline Rocket Racer

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Re: wet sumping cure
« Reply #19 on: 09.08. 2013 04:36 »
Hi Colin. I live in NC, USA where summer temps are mostly low 90s, so Gary said to run 50 wt in the summer and stay with the 40 wt in the winter. I had put an SRM oil pump in my RGS last summer, and just sent it back for their anti-wet sumping update, but sadly this did not cure the wet sumping. Gary was surprised. I will try the oil change-I use 50 wt in my Gold Star but it does not wet sump at all. Mind, these are the recommended oils in the owner's manuals.
I wish I could ride this bike daily as has been suggested. Would not be practical with my job.
I ride weekends unless it rains, then it might be 2 weeks and the sump will have about 12 ozs.
Ron

50 weight is perfect for a beesa single like a goldie with narrow load roller big ends, the heavy oil really helps their big end bearing life. However in the milder climates I wouldnt put a 50 into a plain bush motor like an A10 and definitely not as a cure for wet sumping.
 My race A10 runs on straight 40 castor right through what passes for summer in NZ ;)


A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
New Zealand

Offline Rgs-Bill

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Re: wet sumping cure
« Reply #20 on: 09.08. 2013 19:42 »
Hey you fellas having trouble with wet sumping , try parking the motor on the compression stroke when you are done riding for the day, it covers the crank oil holes with the rod bearing shell, it will cut your sumping by half at least, unless the wear in your oil pump gears, and shaft are really bad, then not much will help, except a tear down, and conversion to the A-65 type heavier spring set up. I am not a fan of any shut off valves at all, NILL, NADA, NO WAY, it only takes once, to ROAST a motor ! ! ! !   As far as using 50 weight mono grade oil, you have to be in a really warm climate, so the oil never gets really thick.  The problem I was told with 50 wt. mono grade oil is that it can be so heavy, it can wash out the white metal bush, if you still have one, instead of the roller conversion.  I do not know if this is true, but some of the racers here on the forum, would know if thick 50 wt. mono would wash out the timing side white metal bushing. I was told this by a mechanic here in the Seattle area, that specializes in BSA's, we also have cooler weather conditions than average of 90* summer time, like in North Carolina .The weather here is  more  like the UK climate, with a bit more winter time rain. Most of my riding is in temperatures in the low to middle 70's, and I will use 40 wt mono, but not 50 wt.
                           BILL
U S of A
N.W. Corner, Seattle 
1962 RGS
78 YEARS OLD
Still Kick Starting My Motor (9 TO 1)
Although getting a bit tougher to do ! !

Offline A10 JWO

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Re: wet sumping cure
« Reply #21 on: 29.08. 2013 15:46 »
Hi Chaps.
Just got the quick tap today, what a helpful company, five star. Fitted in seconds, job done. Impressive engineering.

regards Colin
Southend