Sliding plate behind the clutch

[KeithS]

I'm just putting the chaincase back together with a new Triumph clutch and the sliding plate that goes behind it. The Haynes manual (grrrr) says that the bolts which secure the sliding plate should be tightened after the primary chain is adjusted. The rear bolt head is totally hidden behind the clutch! and the nuts behind the chaincase are a real joy to get at. What am I doing wrong? If it carries on like this, I'll get myself a japanese bike top play with!
I made a nice screwdriver for doing up the clutch screws - see pic.

[bsa-bill]

from another subject here

the studs for the sliding plat are shouldered, the shoulder keeps the plate the correct distance from the inner cover.
If your studs do not have a shoulder they are the wrong studs (not uncommon), proper ones are available

So being shouldered you can fit and tighten them up with plate and felt washer, then the plate should slide with the clutch mainshaft when adjusting the chain, the exeption would be if you had a fully enclosed rear chaincase in which case the front part of it is fastened by the studs (but longer ones) perhaps this is what Haynes refers to (giving the benefit)

[Beezageezauk]

Hi Keith,

I've just read the part of the Haynes manual that you refer to.  I can see the logic in what it states but in reality you can tighten the special thin headed shouldered bolts and when fully tightened you will still be able to move the sliding plate manually in order to fit and centralise the clutch sleeve.  Once you are happy that the clutch sleeve fits ok you will be able to build up the clutch centre, back plate, chainwheel, basket and bearings before fitting this as a unit.

Refer to Bill's comment about the fully enclosed chaincase.  I've never had one so I can't comment on that side of it.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

Beezageezauk.



 

[muskrat]

"The Haynes manual (grrrr)"
Makes good reading in the toilet. The pages tear out easy, and don't hurt too much.
Cheers

[KeithS]

Thanks Beezageezauk. I appreciate that you delved into the manual!
This is a new bike to me. Due to previous clutch malfunction, the head of one of the original BSA sliding plate bolts was very thin so I got some replacements from SRM (and their sliding plate). The shoulder shoulders on these bolts aren't big enough to prevent the plate tightening onto the chaincase rear so I've used the best of the BSA originakls at the back where I can't get to it, once the clutch is fitted and this tightens up OK leaving the plate free to slide. At the front, I'm forced to use one of the new bolts so will have to leave this slack until the primary chain adjustment is done. I think I should be able to get an open ended spanner onto this bolt head even with the clutch on.

[muskrat]

G'day Keith.
If the bolts and felt seal are right the plate will be stiff to move but will move. If it locks up make some shims (thin washers) to go under the shoulder.
The bolts should be locked up before the clutch goes on. I doubt if you will be able to tighten them sufficiently with the clutch on. Imagine the damage if one comes out
Cheers

[KeithS]

G'day Keith.
If the bolts and felt seal are right the plate will be stiff to move but will move. If it locks up make some shims (thin washers) to go under the shoulder.
The bolts should be locked up before the clutch goes on. I doubt if you will be able to tighten them sufficiently with the clutch on. Imagine the damage if one comes out
Cheers

You're probably right. I wish I had sorted all this before I fitted the chaincase inner!

[mayes]

Keep going we have all been there when all seems lost have a pint and fag give it a further few hours good luck John

[KeithS]

The advice about making a shim for the bolt was good - took a bit of fiddling but works a treat. Then I found out that the pushrod was too short so cut it in half and inserted two Triumph clutch rollers in the middle which seems to work OK.
Going for a pint now.
I'm going to try and start it tomorrow!
Any advice about what to pour into the chaincase by way of lubricant (and how much)?
Thanks to everybody on this forum for your advice.

[bikerboy]

Keith

There are actually two or three different length push rods because the Super Rocket had more clutch plates in it than the standard Gold Flash if I remember rightly and if I recall correctly the plunger frame type was a different length altogether

[Beezageezauk]

Hey Keith,

After cutting your pushrod did you remember to harden the freshly cut ends? 

If you didn't regarden them, the ball bearings will wear the rods down again and you will run out of clutch adjustment, stopping the clutch from working altogether.

Beezageezauk.

[KeithS]

Hey Keith,

After cutting your pushrod did you remember to harden the freshly cut ends? 

If you didn't regarden them, the ball bearings will wear the rods down again and you will run out of clutch adjustment, stopping the clutch from working altogether.

Beezageezauk.

No!

[Beezageezauk]

Sorry Keith.   

It looks like you've got another job to do but it will be worth it in the end.

I warm mine up to a dull/cherry red before plunging it straight into cold water.  Then I test it by trying to file the end of the rod.  If it's hardened the file won't make an impression on it but might polish it slightly.

Beezageezauk.