Author Topic: A10 rocker box nut coming off  (Read 1404 times)

Offline jfligg

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A10 rocker box nut coming off
« on: 07.08. 2013 20:34 »
Hi guys

I am not sure what is going on here, but I keep loosing the front rocker box castleated nut.  Threads are good on both.  I am going to try blue light locktite next.  Is there something I am missing?   Thanks in advance jeff

Offline a101960

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Re: A10 rocker box nut coming off
« Reply #1 on: 07.08. 2013 21:13 »
Shake proof washer?

Online KiwiGF

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Re: A10 rocker box nut coming off
« Reply #2 on: 08.08. 2013 04:59 »
Hi, by castellated due you mean like a nut used with a split pin? I ask all of my rocker box nuts are standard hex nuts, but as per other post they have lock washers under them. Remember to use breakclean or something simialr to degrease the threads if using loctite, as otherwise it doe not work very well  *eek*
New Zealand

1956 A10 Golden Flash (1st finished project)

1949 B31 rigid “400cc hot rod” (2nd finished project, + favourite bike)

1949 C11 rigid, but why!!! (cos it was cheap)

1937 B21, project missing parts, mission impossible?

GL1800 Goldwing, well, the wife likes it

KTM 950 ADV, cos it’s 100% nuts

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Offline Flatboy 1950

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Re: A10 rocker box nut coming off
« Reply #3 on: 08.08. 2013 05:46 »
Hi Kiwi , You do not have to be too fussy about cleaning before using Loctite !!
I witnessed an incident at our local classic bike club where the threaded ring holding the carb top cover / slide in place had come adrift.
The whole carb was encrusted in a reddish deposit from leaking fuel & everything was moist with petrol.
Loctite was applied (generously ) to secure the ring & when the owner came to start his bike later , the slide was well & truly glued in place !!
Despite petrol & filth everywhere !!
Prefer cleanliness , but certainly worked despite contamination !!!

Cheers , Flatboy.

Online terryg

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Re: A10 rocker box nut coming off
« Reply #4 on: 08.08. 2013 07:13 »
Loctite is excellent stuff (in its many forms) but for rocker box nuts I suspect when next removing that the stud will come out too.  I'd try either a smear of silicone, as a more 'rubbery' glue, or preferably a tidy shakeproof washer - for easy disassembly.
If you go the Locite route and need to clean up later it dissolves in acetone (commonly available as nail varnish remover).
T.
Terry
'57 'SR', '59 SR, '63 RGS

Online Billybream

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Re: A10 rocker box nut coming off
« Reply #5 on: 08.08. 2013 08:43 »
Loctite should not be necessary, I use lock washers. Well lock washers and plain washer to prevent damage on most of my fasteners where length of thread allows.
1960 Super Rocket, owned since 1966, back on the road 2012 after being laid up for 29yrs.

Offline jfligg

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Re: A10 rocker box nut coming off
« Reply #6 on: 08.08. 2013 13:44 »
Sorry guys I meant the domed hex nut that goes on the exhaust rocker spindle on the right side of the rocker box. There was just aluminum washers there before. I will try to post a picture when I return from vacation.  Jeff

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Re: A10 rocker box nut coming off
« Reply #7 on: 08.08. 2013 13:58 »
Hi jeff never had that one loosen but you never know, how about a serated washer also just to check the shafts not loose in the rocker box is it ,have never seen that but I suppose it could happen, hope you sort it BobH.
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Online KiwiGF

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Re: A10 rocker box nut coming off
« Reply #8 on: 08.08. 2013 21:05 »
Hi Jeff, it took me several attempts to stop these leaking, I did not lose nuts but they did seem to keep slackening off slightly, I needed to do the nuts up as tight as I dared whilst holding the left hand side bolts from turning, plus fit new new copper washers, anneal them and STILL I needed to use small amounts of loctite master gasket on all the sealing surfaces including under the bolt heads, and nut heads. Its possible the master gasket (sticky red stuff) did a dual job of sealing and stopping the nuts coming undone?

There does seem to be a bit of an art in doing the rocker spindles up, from memory the spindle can turn in the box meaning it can be a bit tricky to get the right amount of spindle protruding each side of the box.
New Zealand

1956 A10 Golden Flash (1st finished project)

1949 B31 rigid “400cc hot rod” (2nd finished project, + favourite bike)

1949 C11 rigid, but why!!! (cos it was cheap)

1937 B21, project missing parts, mission impossible?

GL1800 Goldwing, well, the wife likes it

KTM 950 ADV, cos it’s 100% nuts

1952 Armstrong Siddeley Whitley for rainy days (with wife

Offline Rgs-Bill

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A10 rocker box valve cover nuts
« Reply #9 on: 08.08. 2013 22:16 »
Stainless split washers and  "NYLOC" nuts works the best for no leaks in the 8 valve cover nuts and washers.  I bought stainless Allen head studs long enough to bottom out in the holes, and still reach through the Nyloc nut part. And then use stainless split washers and "NYLOC" nuts no valve cover leaks ever.  Plus if the stud tries to turn when you are taking off the nyloc nuts, you can stop the stud from turning with an Allen wrench to keep it from turning.  Or you can break the stud loose with an Allen wrench, and remove the stud nut and split washer all at one time with your fingers, works really well for me anyway, and the tank hardly gets in your way, a couple of them are a little tight quarters, but not too bad.
                RGS-Bill
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N.W. Corner, Seattle 
1962 RGS
78 YEARS OLD
Still Kick Starting My Motor (9 TO 1)
Although getting a bit tougher to do ! !

Offline gavinoz

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Re: A10 rocker box nut coming off
« Reply #10 on: 08.08. 2013 22:29 »
Hi Jeff,
What condition is the rockerbox face on which the aluminium washer sits? if it is scored or uneven you may need to 'spot face' it, as otherwise it will not tighten properly and will leak.
Allen head studs, RGS-Bill, great idea, maybe also for sump studs.
gav
Rigid A7S, 57 A10 in pieces
Australia

Offline duTch

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Re: A10 rocker box nut coming off
« Reply #11 on: 10.08. 2013 11:29 »

  Hi guys, haven't thrown in my two bob for a while- there's a couple different issues going on here.

 1, (original question) Jeff, are you certain that you have the correct plain shim 67-0061 on the end of the rocker shaft (R/H internal)?
 When I pulled mine apart I found a couple of bodgy hardware washers the wrong size in there, they need to be the correct I.D.,and O.d I think is also critical- maybe 3/8" x3/4"(?).
     If it is /they are missing, the rocker shaft won't be held firm against the inside of the box, and could spin thereby nuts loosening- just a thought...?

 2, (Kiwi)I don't think it matters a lot how much protrudes from the LHS, so long as the washers have something to hang on as with care the banjo's will self centre...?

 3, re RGS Bills idea, not bad, I think I've used a similar idea somewhere, but in this case as per the other thread (no pun intended) re "sump-plate', and other applications where threads are susceptible to wear, one could instead utilize a socket tip grub screw in place of the full blown cap screws, thereby negating the need to undo the screws, just undo the nuts. (kinda like a tappet adjuster screw), but I think the original studs be better as they have the fine thread for the nuts, for better controlled tightening and resistance to vibrating loose. (having said that, I have SS socket cap screws with spring washers- for now).


   Hoo Boy phew, hard yakka that, need a (whoops,nutha)bevvie now...good luck with it... cheers duTch

     
Started building in about 1977/8 a on average '52 A10 -built from bits 'n pieces never resto intended -maybe 'personalised'
Have a '74 850T Moto Guzzi since '92-best thing I ever bought doesn't need a kickstart 'cos it bump starts sooooooooo(mostly) easy
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