Author Topic: Brake rod conversion info?  (Read 4742 times)

Offline chaterlea25

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Re: Brake rod conversion info?
« Reply #15 on: 07.12. 2013 00:51 »
HI Clive,
On my SR the lever on the brake cam was past the 90 degree to the cable before the newly lined shoes would touch the drum, so I cut some steel strip 60 thou thick and folded it around the ends of the shoes where the cam rubs, they cannot move out of place when fitted,

If the cam is fitted turned 180 degrees,  the available arm fitting positions changes relative to the cable as the square on the end of the cam spindle is not square/ parallel with the cam

An alternative would be to make a new lever with the square hole oriented differently so as the brake would start to work at the correct angle to the cable

Another point often forgotten is to centre the shoes , by loosening the shoe pivot pin nut, applying the brake, then retighten the nut while the brake is still applied

What does "arching" the shoes mean?
I have machined oversize linings to suit the brake drum diamater on other brakes with excellent results

I will try and to take a couple of photos of my over the weekend

HTH
John
1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Offline Clive54bsa

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Re: Brake rod conversion info?
« Reply #16 on: 07.12. 2013 04:08 »
Thanks John, I look forward to the photos,. "Arching" is basicly the same as machining the shoes to fit the drum in order to get the maximum contact to the brake drum.

Clive


'54 GF,  '61 SR,  '71 B50MX

Offline chaterlea25

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Re: Brake rod conversion info?
« Reply #17 on: 09.12. 2013 23:47 »
HI Clive and All,
Attached photos of my bikes rear cable setup, difficult to get at it tonite as its wrapped up for the Winter
The pics show the levers with the brake applied
The cable bellied out when the adjuster was set,  I rekon theres room for further tweaking , maybe shortening the inner some more to back off the adjuster a bit

Regards
John
1961 Super Rocket
1963 RGS (ongoing)

Offline Clive54bsa

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Re: Brake rod conversion info?
« Reply #18 on: 10.12. 2013 15:48 »
Thanks for the photos John. I like the custom oil tank drain plug, it beats a my method of a sucking out the last bit with a turkey baster and paper towels.
Clive


'54 GF,  '61 SR,  '71 B50MX

Offline Dean

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Re: Brake rod conversion info?
« Reply #19 on: 01.01. 2014 17:12 »
Hooray

and Happy New Year.

Just a couple of days in the garage and I now have a rod operated rear brake, which I finished this morning  *smile*
Not tested on the road yet but test in garage and brake feels infinitely better and seems to stop very well.
Striped down for painting now but will report back when I have road tested.

I need to check it works when travelling in reverse. The Slopers doesn't and gets me in a right pickle if the engine stalls when reversing out of garage due to very steep downhill drive!

So, many thanks for all your help fellow forumistas.
Special thanks to NickSR. I virtualyy just followed the very clear instructuons in your dcouments and the great photos.
Also thanks to Brian Pollitt (Lightening Spares) for his patience and parts, and Draganfly for parts.
Never tell people your troubles. Half of them are not interested and the other half are glad you're getting what's coming to you.

Online muskrat

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Re: Brake rod conversion info?
« Reply #20 on: 01.01. 2014 19:37 »
Another happy chappie, well done.
Drum brakes never work as well in reverse. All to do with the angle of the dangle, twin leaders are worse.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, 88 FXST .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Offline NickSR

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Re: Brake rod conversion info?
« Reply #21 on: 03.01. 2014 18:01 »
Hi Dean
          I am pleased to see that my notes were a help to you, look forwards to photos and road test.

Regards
Nick   
1962 Super Rocket
1955 BSA C11G
1998 BMW R850R

Offline scotty

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Re: Brake rod conversion info?
« Reply #22 on: 07.01. 2014 22:13 »
Great thread

Nick, thanks for sending the details  *beer*

Scotty

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Offline Dean

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Re: Brake rod conversion info?
« Reply #23 on: 08.01. 2014 08:20 »
After waiting week for the paint to harden I have fully installed the parts. I have yet to road test but it feels so beautifully free of unwanted slack and freeplay I will have to watch I don't rest my toe on the pedal while riding. But if I do sense a reduction on power I know the first place to look! I should really find a replacement pedal sometime as the current one is a tad short (the joy oy basket cases ;).

In the meantime here are the pics of the finished job...
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Re: Brake rod conversion info?
« Reply #24 on: 08.01. 2014 10:04 »
nicely done Dean, that's it I've got to get mine sorted first job after it thaws a bit, well done , BobH
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Offline NickSR

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Re: Brake rod conversion info?
« Reply #25 on: 08.01. 2014 19:23 »
Hi Dean, You have made a great job of the conversion, look forward to your test run.

Keep safe
Nick
1962 Super Rocket
1955 BSA C11G
1998 BMW R850R

Offline madsens

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Re: Brake rod conversion info?
« Reply #26 on: 08.01. 2014 21:37 »
Hi Dean
Looks great - where did you source the parts? Lightning Spares? *????*

regards
Joergen
BSA A10GF 1962
Denmark

Offline Clive54bsa

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Re: Brake rod conversion info?
« Reply #27 on: 09.01. 2014 05:25 »
Nice job Dean, what brake arm did you use? I'm working on a slightly different conversion, but can't find a brake arm that fits the square on the end of the operating brake shoe cam. All the ones I've tried have a too large a hole to fit the square end.
Clive


'54 GF,  '61 SR,  '71 B50MX

Offline Dean

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Re: Brake rod conversion info?
« Reply #28 on: 10.01. 2014 08:47 »
Hi Joergen and Clive

Lightning Spares are your source for the brake rod and all its ancilliaries and the rear brake arm.
The brake arm that goes on the drum 40-6041 does not fit directly. You will need to fill with weld  the star hole and redrill and file to fit the square brake cam spindle end. I did not find this a hard job if you take your time to be accurate.

Lightning Spares did not have the replacement brake arm that goes on the crossover shaft (68-7020) but Draganfly have several nos.

The easiest way for me to get some tube was to pop to the local B&Q (diy store) and find the nearest size in the rack of 1m lengths. I ended up with a slightly smaller diameter tube with a thinner wall thickness than Nick states but it will be fine given the short length. After grinding down the brake arm and slipping the tube over it I found that slightly squashing it in the vice got an almost perfect all-round contact between the end of the tube and the arm so the weld could be pretty neat.

The brake rod comes with a clevis and rather large headed bolt and nut for the space available between the frame and oil pipe. To iprove clearance I was able to bend the oil pipe tube by careful use of a G clamp between it and the upper gearbox plate (another advantage of junking the silly ski jump ;))

Have fun but as I have not tried out the brake on the road yet I make no assertions as to its effectiveness (can tell I married a lawyer can't you *smiley4*).

I tried to attach a pdf of Nick's instructions before realising this is not possible on this forum. If Nick is OK I am happy to PM these to you.

Dean
Never tell people your troubles. Half of them are not interested and the other half are glad you're getting what's coming to you.

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Re: Brake rod conversion info?
« Reply #29 on: 10.01. 2014 09:25 »
Nick's instructions are here.

BSA A7 & A10 1959 Onwards

Converting Cable Operated Rear Brake to Rod Operation

(Down Wards Rear Brake Arm & Full Width Cast Iron Hub))

Introduction:
This is a guide for those of us that have limit resources and who have basic hand skills will be able to produce this conversion very simply and with only one trip for welding.
The guidance is for A7 & A10 I can see no reason why that it will not work on B31 & B33 and also A7 & A10 with the brake arm upwards.

Items Required:  Item          Description                                                Comments
1   Rear Brake Arm              40 – 6041  1962 A50/65 & C15                 Draganfly Spares 01986 - 894798 & Lightning Spares
2   Crossover Shaft Arm      68-7020  1962 A50/65 (Clevis Cable End)       Draganfly Spares   www.draganfly.co.uk
3   Steel Pipe                       Dia 21.32mm Wall Thickness 2.62mm  Internal 16mm Length 4.7/8’’ (130mm)   
4   Brake Rod Connection Bracket  1 ¾’’ x 7/8’’ x  3/16’’ – 40 x 22 x 4.5mm   
5   S/Steel Brake Rod ¼’’ X 24’’ Long Screwed BSF for 6’’                        Lightning Spares 0161- 9693850
6   S/Steel Brake Rod Trunnion  7/16’’                                                   www.lightning-spares.co.uk
7   S/Steel Brake Rod Adjuster Knurled Thread ¼’’ BSF                            As above
8   S/Steel  1 x ¼’’ BSF Nut & Washer                                                       As above
9   S/Steel  ¼’’ Compression Spring  3’’                                                       As above
10   S/Steel  1 x Split Pin & 1 x ¼’’ Washer                                               As above
11   S/Steel Bolt  1.1/4’’ x ¼’’ plus Washer for Shaft Arm                       As above


Crossover Shaft Z Arm :
1.   Cut square one end of pipe, file and remove burrs inside.
2.   Now cut to length 4.7/8’’ (123mm) again file and remove burrs inside.
3.        From one end measure 2.1/2’’(63mm) this fits on to the arm and cut at 450
4.   The shorter piece 2.3/8’’ (60mm) form the right angle (top).

Crossover Shaft Z Arm End Connection Plate:
1.   Cut to dimension  1 ¾’’ x 7/8’’ x  3/16’’ – (40mm x 22mm x 4.5mm)
2.        Mark centre line through plate and come in 3/8’’ 10mm and drill 5mm hole.
3.        Cut and file plate into shape that is required to fit on the end of the pipe.


Crossover Shaft Arm:
1.   If possible grind cable end round so it will push fit into the pipe, if not it’s a file.
2.   By doing this it will keep in the right position when being welded and also when its on the crossover shaft for checking for fit.


Assembly of Z Arm Ready for Welding 

1.   Check arm on the shaft that you have clearance to oil tank and pipes, use marker pen or tipex (correction fluid) to make sure that every   thing is in the right directions.
2.         Rod connection bracket if the welder puts the Z arm in the vice with the pinch bolt parallel to the jaw the arm will be slightly towards the right, connection bracket now needs to be horizontal.

Rear Brake Arm:

1.   The only brake arm that I could find that would suit was from a BSA A65,  which can be purchased new, the only problem is  that the stepped hole is to large.
2.   Fill weld the hole and then drill 9mm hole in the centre.
3.        When the hole has been drilled the boss area needs to be a 3/16’’
          (4.5mm) thickness, as same as the original brake arm.

4.   Reducing of the boss area will enable a full nut to be fitted.
5.   With the brake arm in the vice with the offset facing you it needs to be at about 10/11 O’clock position so when the brake is applied the arm does not go past vertical, file square to vice jaws this will give a good guide.

6.   With a tapered 3/8’’ (10mm) square file (fig 7) carefully file the hole   square.
    Note: The original  brake arm is a tight fit, there is a very small shoulder on the spindle that the arm butts up against, if you make the hole to big the arm will then butt up against the brake plate.

Continued next page





'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS now A10CR,  '83 CB1100F, 88 FXST .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7