Brake rod conversion info?

[Dean]

Well, that was interesting.
Despite the ice I was itching to road test the the brake rod conversion this morning. I used to have to commute in worse weather but my bones don't bend like they used to so I'm more hesistant these days
Anyway, I got out and on flat flat ice free bit of road, tested the rear stopper. It was not as I expected.
With the adjuster being set up so the wheel was just free to rotate the pedal had felt much better when trying it in the garage: little slack and the brake bit. But, get on the bike and ride and there was noticeably more pedal travel, although not as much as there was with the cable. So I am guessing the geometry is such that the end of the operating arm is far enough from the centre of the swing arm spindle that the effective length of the rod changes as the swing arm moves.
Fortunately its in the right direction, I wouldn't fancy the brakes being applied as I hit a bump!

As for the braking performance, I have to say I have not noticed much difference but this may reflect on the need to sort out other elements of the brake now I've eliminated the spongy cable.

I'll have a look sometime but to be honest, the brake does work and while there is room for improvement, I would not want it better than the front brake.

[Clive54bsa]

Gentlemen, I have been working on a rear rod brake conversion too for my '61 super rocket, I've been sourcing only BSA parts to do this, with minimal modifications. I've been carefully photographing each stage and logging the time spent, in order to come up with this awesome conversion with a list of BSA part numbers, so other forum members, could just source these parts and enjoy the wonderful new effective rear brake. Well today I finished the job and took her out for a test ride and...................... no difference. Absolutely the same feel and effectiveness as the cable operated brake, possibly a little less spongy, but frankly it's pathetic.
Years ago some old BSA A10 expert told be "if you set up those cable brakes right, they work fine" unfortunately he's passed on now taking those brake secrets with him. I've done all the geometry corrections, changed linings, arm lengths etc. and come to the conclusion it's just a crappy brake. So now I'll be looking for QD rear wheel and brake. I hope some of the other versions I've read about turned out better than my disappointing attempt.
Clive

[chaterlea25]

Hi Clive,
Unless the new linings were machined accurately to the drum size, it will take a fair few miles to  get the linings to bed in to the drum,
Its possible to assist in the bedding in process by repeated dismantling and sanding down the rubbing spots till the shoes touch all round
Have you centered the shoes by loosening the shoe pivot pin applying the brake, retighten while the brake is applied
Some shoes are a "floating" type with the linings offset, these must be fitted the correct way around
Another consideration is the lining material used, a lot of modern linings are useless being too hard

HTH
John

[Clive54bsa]

Thanks John, didn't know about loosening the pivot to center the shoes. I'll give that a try next, then look into linings although I have the same linings on my '54 GF and they work fine
Clive

[muskrat]

Brakr Rod Conversion continued.

Brake Rod:
1.   The brake rod in stainless steel can be purchased from Lightning Spares.
2.   Assemble the brake and Z Arm into position, measure the length of rod that is required to the connection point on the Z Arm.
3.   Grip the brake rod in the vice protecting it with wood and then form the elbow with a hammer.
4.   Cut off the excess rod of the elbow and drill for split pin.
            Note: If you file a very small flat where you want to centre punch it will make it easier to centre punch in the middle of the rod.

Hints:
1.   Check dimensions, from centre of the crossover shaft to the top of Z Arm 3.1/4’’ (83mm). Overall length of top part including rod bracket 2.1/2’’ (63mm), again this for a 1962 Super Rocket, could start off with pipe to long and cut to length as required, but make the arm as short as possible the longer it is then the more travel on brake pedal.
2.   Check before painting on the Z Arm you may needs to remove some of the pipe as it may foul the swing arm main nut.
3.        I used Hammerite Smooth Spray  4 coats gave it a nice deep shine.
4.   Main problem I had when I took the crossover shaft arm off, the brake pedal spring slip come off its mount, I struggled to get in place when reassembling.
5.   There is also a modification to the rear brake pedal that you may  wish to consider while do this work, my Super Rocket come with this mod done.


Acknowledgment:
BSA A7 & A10 Forum
Christopher Fenoulhet &  Seamus Molone who had already completed the conversion,
With out their help I would not have been able provide this guidance.

Ride Safely
Nick Gallop

March 2013 update:

Photo: Showing Z arm with clevis fitting by A7 – A10 Forum Member

As you will see in this photo a clevis has been used to connect to the Z arm.
Clearances to the oil tank and pipes would need to be checked if using this
method.

Also one of the Forum Members has used a the ring part of a combination spanner to make the brake arm, this method will give more adjustment which is a very good ideal.