Author Topic: Pushrod problem  (Read 3464 times)

Online KiwiGF

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Re: Pushrod problem
« Reply #15 on: 29.12. 2013 18:52 »
Hi pecon. Ive seen alloy rods which have too large a radius on the ends so stick in the rockers. This was a wel known issud for a while. Maybe you had some of these?
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1956 A10 Golden Flash  (1st finished project)
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Online muskrat

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Re: Pushrod problem
« Reply #16 on: 29.12. 2013 19:31 »
I've had alloy push rods in mine for over 20 years. On average they wear less than a thou a year. The ends are polished.
I have seen on flebay alloy rods with steel ends, but if your not racing, std rods will out last most of us.
Cheers 
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
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Offline trevinoz

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Re: Pushrod problem
« Reply #17 on: 30.12. 2013 03:54 »
Your tappet clearances were too high for a 356 cam, those clearances are for the 334 cam.
Yours should be .008" & .010"

Trev.

Offline Rocket Racer

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Re: Pushrod problem
« Reply #18 on: 31.12. 2013 05:04 »
This thread got me thinking about weights of the items:

standard steel pushrods: 171.5 grams for a set
parallel alloy pushrods: 127.5 grams for a set

my shorter wide section alloy pushrods (off bender) with relieved ends are 89 grams the set.

so not all alloy pushrods are the same, and a steel pushrod is about 10 grams heavier than its normal alloy equivelent
A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
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Offline Pecon

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Re: Pushrod problem
« Reply #19 on: 01.01. 2014 09:35 »
Thanks Trev, perhaps the incorrect clearances did have an affect on the rods, I'll rectify that when I get the replacements.

RR I was not aware that there were so many variations on the push rod types. I assume that the lighter set are for more sporty work?

Peter

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Re: Pushrod problem
« Reply #20 on: 01.01. 2014 19:24 »
To add to RR's rod types, I have tapered alloy (duralium) rods in the cafe. About 1/8" thicker in the middle.
Re Trevs clearances. I have to set them at 10 & 12 on the cafe, if I use 8 & 10 she props the valves open when HOT (35degrees 75mph in 3rd up hill).
The recommended settings are just that, recommended. If there are other things/mods at play it's suck n see.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
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Offline trevinoz

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Re: Pushrod problem
« Reply #21 on: 01.01. 2014 20:13 »
Musky,
               The Gurus recommended .010" & .012" for the 357 cam for maximum power.

Trev.

Offline Pecon

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Re: Pushrod problem
« Reply #22 on: 01.01. 2014 21:12 »
(35degrees) Never experienced that here..!!!


(75mph in 3rd up hill)  Never will.  *smiley4*

Online muskrat

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Re: Pushrod problem
« Reply #23 on: 02.01. 2014 09:03 »
Thanks Trev, I always find out the hard way. I like to set them as close as possible so not to waste any of the cam *eek*.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
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Offline duTch

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Re: Pushrod problem
« Reply #24 on: 03.01. 2014 09:52 »

 Hey Richard,....?

   
Quote
I'm thinkin' the hardened end must be in the sump or, maybe, the camshaft trough (though, not sure it could live there with the cam turning).

Richard L.

  Am I missing out on something..?.... how will the ends make it to be out of the pushrod tunnel...??... *conf*
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Offline Pecon

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Re: Pushrod problem
« Reply #25 on: 03.01. 2014 11:00 »
I did pull of the sump filter to check and found that it was full of slivers of alloy but nothing bigger and none were found under the gauze. I'm hoping that if any did go further that damage was avoided. I've drained the oil but so far no sign of anything amiss but to be sure I'll check the tank filter before I refill.

Peter

Offline Rocket Racer

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Re: Pushrod problem
« Reply #26 on: 01.01. 2015 04:24 »
Musky,
               The Gurus recommended .010" & .012" for the 357 cam for maximum power.

Trev.

Worth noting those clearances relate to that cam fitted with an alloy head.
If using alloy push rods in an all iron motor bigger clearances would make sense. Ideally use steel push rods with an iron head to avoid the disproportionate expansion rates

Have just been helping a mate with an all iron GF and even with the 334 that supposed to have 16 thou clearances on the exhaust. In fact as it had lesser clearances had burnt at least one of the exhaust seats, so heads currently off for attention.
A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
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