Author Topic: Zinc Plating  (Read 3425 times)

Offline Sparky

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Re: Zinc Plating
« Reply #15 on: 24.11. 2012 14:30 »
I've been using the kit available from Eastwood for a couple of years with good results.  I use it mostly for small parts where chrome is neither needed or desired.  The key to satisfactory plating is good part prep (i.e. rust and grease removal).  Plated parts can be buffed to a nice bright matte finish, but will oxidize to a darker grey over time.  It is hard to beat the convenience of being able to do your own zinc plating, and for $70 US, I consider it money well spent.

Online BSA_54A10

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Re: Zinc Plating
« Reply #16 on: 25.11. 2012 11:00 »
G'day 'A' series owners, Ive not posted for a while, but still around riding and restoring *smile*.
A while ago someone asked about removing chrome and I don't think there was a home based answer to this. So off to the platers I go and am relieved of $50 to de-chrome an oil tank  *eek*. So last week I purchased a zinc plating kit and in it is the instructions to de-chrome. You need sulphuric acid, water, a battery, a bath and jumper leads. I will be learning how to de-chrome and zinc plate (or not!!) over xmas and shall report back with the results. Cheers Tomcat

Be careful with your solutions.
the resultant Chromic acid is very toxic and can not be used to plate from.
The tiniest bit of oil or carbon on the part to be stripped will kill the solution dead.
Over doing it will eat out the parent metal in a flash
Bike Beesa
Trevor

Offline Rocket Racer

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Re: Zinc Plating
« Reply #17 on: 02.12. 2012 00:31 »
My understanding is that whilst home dechroming isnt that difficult ...the real issue is the resultant solution is extremely hazardous to dispose of, so I either leave my dechroming to the platers or polish it off.

On the sidecar I have had quite a lot of parts electroless nickel plated, gives a very even coating so even suitable for barrels etc, (have seen indian fours, barrels and heads so plated) not that I've gone that way, but my clips ons and engine plates are nickel. Polished its has a lovely lustre, but again not a job I do myself.
A good rider periodically checks all nuts and bolts with a spanner to see that they are tight - Instruction Manual for BSA B series, p46, para 2.
New Zealand