Author Topic: RGS/A10 center stand extension arm  (Read 781 times)

Offline sprint

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RGS/A10 center stand extension arm
« on: 17.02. 2014 13:19 »
I want to fit an extension arm to the center stand of my RGS, the swan shaped type that is fitted to the 60's Triumphs and BSA's, see photo's, but don't wan't it to stick out so far as it does not have to clear a nearside silencer. My current stand is the same as the Burton one but without the extension arm.

Not being a metallurgist can anybody advise if I needs a particular grade of steel or heat treatment process for such an arm to withstand the force applied without just bending?

I am trying to find a scrap stand which sill has a good arm that I can cut off, but failing that it looks like the Burton's arm is one that has been made from a straight piece of 15/16 mm rod that has had the end machined to take the rubber and then just bent?

So, that being the case what steel would be needed? I assume that one would need the use an oxy acteylene to heat up the area to be bent, but would you then quench it or allow it to cool naturally and would you then need to apply any heat treatment process to the whole arm before fitting?

I guess in the old days they would have been drop forged?

Offline sprint

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Re: RGS/A10 center stand extension arm
« Reply #1 on: 21.02. 2014 10:59 »
Can anybody help with this or suggest where I can get some advice?

Offline muskrat

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Re: RGS/A10 center stand extension arm
« Reply #2 on: 21.02. 2014 19:27 »
G'day sprint.
I would imagine the originals to be forged and brazed into the lug.
If it were me I'd make one out of a long 5/8" high tensile bolt, heating at the bends, then heating and quenching when done. Tig welded to the stand.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
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Offline bsa-bill

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Re: RGS/A10 center stand extension arm
« Reply #3 on: 21.02. 2014 19:51 »
just a suggestion sprint, if your concerned about the strength of the brazed/welded on leg would it be possible to continue the leg across to the other side welding it on the back of the drive side and the front of the timing side.  (does that makes sense)
bit untidy(but would not be seen) and I'm trying to think if there's some obstruction underneath, a good second hand stand would be good but hard to get I imagine
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco

Offline muskrat

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Re: RGS/A10 center stand extension arm
« Reply #4 on: 21.02. 2014 20:17 »
The main stress on the joint (weld or braze) is a twisting action. Bill's suggestion has merit but would need to be bowed to clear the tyre wnen up.
Cheers
'51 A7 plunger, '57 A7SS racer now a A10CR, '78 XT500, '83 CB1100F, 88 HD FXST, 2000 CBR929RR ex Honda Australia Superbike .
Australia
Muskys Plunger A7

Offline sprint

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Re: RGS/A10 center stand extension arm
« Reply #5 on: 22.02. 2014 10:19 »
Thanks for the replies and advice.

Not concerned about welding to the foot of the stand as a through hole is done and arm pushed through and welded on each side, as original.

It is making the arm from the correct material and/or giving it the correct heat treatment process (or other treatment) so that it does not bend when the foot pressure is applied to lift the bike onto the stand.

Offline bsa-bill

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Re: RGS/A10 center stand extension arm
« Reply #6 on: 22.02. 2014 10:27 »
it's pretty thick in section, I'm willing to be shot down here but mild steel rod that thick heated, bent to shape, heated full length then quenched would probably give it enough strength - any engineers like to comment
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco