Going Electronic

[morris]

Well lads, I finally gave in and converted the swingarm to electronic ignition and 12V
Must say, quite happy with it
Without any other adjustment, it became a reliable first kick starter. Even half hearted kicks get it going now.
Before, it had a flat spot when opening the throttle to quickly, but that's no longer there
I also find the bike less vibrating, and turning more regular now, although this might relate to my painstaking timing adjustment.
Installing it was very straightforward. I put the black box under the tank in the triangle formed by the main tubes coming from the headstock, and bolted the twin coil to the tank strap. The electrical connections are all in the headlamp cowl (gets a bit crammed in there now).
For the ignition switch, I drilled a hole in the headlamp cowl, and also connected the light switch to it so if I forget to turn the lights off, I won't be left with a flat battery. Had a bit of luck there, because if I had drilled the hole 3 or 4 mm higher, the connectors would have touched the speedometer.
 

[muskrat]

Good one morris. You'll love it. Have you strobed it with a degree wheel? I have one permanently mounted on the crank. Once in a blue moon I drop the primary cover to check it. A little 4 amp battery will give you at least an hour riding without any charge from the dynamo.
Cheers

[duTch]

 Like those dome nuts, taking it you only have three (centre front?), and fancy grubscrew/cover- had in mind to do similar...

[bsa-bill]

Well done Morris, I've got the same set up but wiring all under the seat at the moment.
I plan (soon) to rewire the bike as I've too many extra wires running back and forth

[ShaunMac]

Whilst I've got my bike in bits I'm contemplating this for the electrics.
Which kit did you go for?

Cheers,
Shajn

[bsa-bill]

Mine is same as Morris - Pazon bought from Paul Goff, I sourced the housing separately, can't recall why (memory)

Think I'm right in saying folks that are Pazon used to work at Boyer but started on there own with an improved design (voltage is not as critical as Boyer I believe)
Really neat unit and a doddle to adjust timing, only thing I had to look at twice was the direction of rotation for the timing, not a problem if you just take a bit of care and read the instructions, (I'm guilty of diving in first reading second on occasion)

[morris]

Thanks lads. It was fun doing, and even more fun riding it now.

Good one morris. You'll love it. Have you strobed it with a degree wheel?

Didn't yet, but certainly going to. I timed it static on the timing side with a degree disc. Think I have turned it back and forth about a million times before I was happy with it
First Sunday with noting to do but annoying the neighbours, I'll drop the primary and have a look how it's behaving with a strobe light connected.

Like those dome nuts, taking it you only have three (centre front?), and fancy grubscrew/cover- had in mind to do similar...

Right. Two at the back and one up front. The others are plain nuts.

Whilst I've got my bike in bits I'm contemplating this for the electrics.
Which kit did you go for?

Paul Goff. The Pazon ignition kit + magneto replacement housing and a complete 12V conversion with 5.5amp gel battery, V-reg and all bulbs (35/35w halogen headlight, 10w halogen pilot, speedo and rear/stoplight bulb) came at £359,25. Just had to buy the fixed pinion separately. You can reuse the automatic advance unit if you like, but it'll have to be blocked in the max advance position then.
Did a lot of driving since the conversion, lots of short runs with lights (running it on the  pilot which is certainly adequate) and the battery stays at a steady 12.7V.

I plan (soon) to rewire the bike as I've too many extra wires running back and forth

Exactly why I did it like this. This way I've got only the two trigger wires going to the back and down into the housing. All the others go to the headlamp cowl and connect there.

[muskrat]

You'll be surprised how much better it will be if you strobe it to 32-35 degrees. I made an alloy disc to fit behind the crank/cush drive nut marked in 5 degree increments and a pointer from the two lockwired bolts. Quick and easy checking/adjusting.
Sorry no pictures, my computer crashed (literally off the bench, DOH).
Cheers 

[morris]

Sorry no pictures, my computer crashed (literally off the bench, DOH).
Cheers 

Better a crashed computer than a crashed A10 (or A7).
I suppose I could live without a computer if necessary but I don't even dare to think about the other possibility.....

[muskrat]

Yep it's hard. Lucky the missus has my old XP box still working. But still lost everything on mine.
A mate just gave me his old E4700 to get me by. Just loading 7 over his vista. No work in the shed tonight. Rather rebuild a magie or rocker box.
Cheers

[ShaunMac]

Fitted the DVR2 and gone to 12 v. Decided to go the whole hog also and have ordered the srm mag conversion. I'm figuring I've spent so much money on reconditioning the engine that I want it to run with ease. I suppose it's cheating a bit but at least the srm mod will allow me to keep the original look of the K2F.

[morris]

You certainly won't regret it Shaunmack. Well worth the investment if you're looking for a reliable first kick starter.
The12V conversion is also an improvement if you want to use the bike as a daily runner.
I am really curious now how the plunger will behave compared to the SA as I want to get the SA's magneto refurbished and install it on the plunger.
Won't be for soon though. I was planning to do just a cosmetic restoration, but as usual it turned out differently.....
Just don't tell the wife yet, please....!

[muskrat]

"You certainly won't regret it" either morris. Mt plunger handles quite well, just a lot less corner clearance. You learn to go with the flow, don't fight it.
Cheers 

[ShaunMac]

Just taken the mag off and the auto-advance unit to weld it up.
May be an amateur question but I didn't see any timing marks on the gears.
I presume that it just goes back on the tapered shaft anywhere?

[duTch]

  That's correct, it's fully variable just line up the marks on the three gears and slap it on...!..well.... with the piston and ignition in the right places too....!

I presume you not welding it on there...? if so you'll probably cook things