Author Topic: Clutch Problem  (Read 2562 times)

Offline BSA_54A10

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Re: Clutch Problem
« Reply #30 on: 11.07. 2014 11:06 »
I have  again dismantled the clutch and carefully checked everything and can find nothing wrong. So I put it back together again and refitted the adjuster nuts and tightened them up finger tight tried the kickstart and the clutch was slipping so I tightened them up a bit further keep checking the kickstart now I have it so that it is not slipping or dragging, the clutch is light to operate I would like to leave it at that but I cannot get a full lock nut on only about half a nut if I tighten the adjusters till can get a full locknut on you can feel the clutch plates are not entirely free. I have trued the pressure plate up using a dial gauge and it is within a couple of thou.  I have a small lathe so over the weekend I will take the adjuster nuts and machine small amount off each nut and then I will probably be able to get a full locknut on  and try the gearchange again and if still a stiff gearchange I will have to have a look at the gearbox fortunately I do have a spare gearbox that has been sitting around in the garage for about 20 years. Thanks to all those who have come up with possible solutions.


That is where you want to be not slipping and not dragging.
there is also the possibility that you have the wrong hub fitted.
The C series and M series had shorter studs as I found out the hard way after spending all weekend getting a spare A 10 clutch to fit into the M20 , line up properly and adjusted beautifully.
Wasn't I pisse when I put the primary case back on and heard a scraping noise when ever I pulled the clutch in. Being Trevor I "fixed" this by cutting a primary gasket out of 3/8" thick neoprene cork and fitting a few washers behind the foot peg spacer.
If some one has a real A10 clutch handy perhaps they will be good enough to post the stud length.
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Offline bikerbob

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Re: Clutch Problem
« Reply #31 on: 11.07. 2014 17:53 »
Problems now solved have put everything back together clutch now working OK and all gears select OK can even get neutral without stopping the engine. This all started trying to fix an oil leak out the back of the primary case. The first problem was the inner primary case was to far forward had to remove the distance piece at the crankshaft end also at the gearbox end the fully enclosed chaincase gearbox section did not fit correctly around the gearbox or the swinging arm thus preventing the inner chaincase from moving back fixed that then inner chaincase moved back so that the plain plate behind the chainwheel cleared the sliding plate rivets. As said previously a former owner had fitted 3 new friction plates and 2 badly worn ones  when I replaced the worn ones and a new chainwheel I could not stop the clutch from dragging without removing the locknuts. This was down to incorrect springs replaced the springs and big improvement but still dragging slightly giving a very stiff gear change. Today I removed the adjuster nuts and lock nuts and in my lathe machined of a small amount from them all replaced them adjusted the clutch and everything is now working as it should. The main problem with these old bikes is if they have had a good number of owners do not assume that when they fix or repair something that they use all the right parts and fit them properly. Oil leak also fixed.
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