Author Topic: paint removal  (Read 1632 times)

Offline Sealandroader

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paint removal
« on: 01.08. 2014 16:02 »
is there any other  method of paint removal other than thinners, i don't want to scratch the alloy under the paint
If you rob a bank. YOU go to Jail-------If they rob you---THEY. GET A. BONUS

Online bsa-bill

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Re: paint removal
« Reply #1 on: 01.08. 2014 18:40 »
Nitromors but not sure how it reacts to alloy, if you watch it carefully you can remove the softened paint before it gets softened all the way through, scrape off with a plastic scraper.
If you intend to polish the alloy maybe remove the last of the paint with 2500 0r 3000 grade wet and dry which would leave a fine matt finish prior to polishing
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco

Offline bonny

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Re: paint removal
« Reply #2 on: 01.08. 2014 18:51 »
Nitromors will not move automotive paint anymore as the active ingredient had to be removed under stupid eu green laws. I bought some a month or two back and it did nothing to the paint at all , just sat on the paint and after a few hours it had only softened the paint slightly. The only strippers i found that did work was rustins "Strypit" which works fine.

Offline Sealandroader

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Re: paint removal
« Reply #3 on: 01.08. 2014 18:58 »
where can this be acquired in the uk please
If you rob a bank. YOU go to Jail-------If they rob you---THEY. GET A. BONUS

Online RichardL

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Re: paint removal
« Reply #4 on: 01.08. 2014 19:51 »
Seal (SLR?),

Have you thought about soda blasting? http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodablasting

It seems our old friends at T&L Engineering in Chester might be set up for this process.

[Actually, I'm in Chicago, and don't know the T&L folks at all, but I think I would If I lived near Chester (been there once).] *smile*

Richard L.
Plan on signing up for the world-wide 2017 DISTINGUISHED GENTLEMAN'S RIDE on September 30, 2018. Watch website at https://www.gentlemansride.com for details.

Offline bonny

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Re: paint removal
« Reply #5 on: 01.08. 2014 21:25 »
where can this be acquired in the uk please

The original paint stripper with dcm can still be used by professionals , but is banned from sale to diy users. You could try anywhere that sells paint to professional spray painters, or cabinet makers/french polishers. i think frosts sell it as aircraft stripper. But the rustins strypit should be available from any hardware, it says on the can dcm free, but it works as good as the old stuff.

Online bsa-bill

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Re: paint removal
« Reply #6 on: 01.08. 2014 21:28 »
Quote
Nitromors will not move automotive paint anymore

Do you know this for a fact bonny. I have just stripped several layers of lacquer, top coat and primer from my Flash with Nitromors purchased from Halfords  a few weeks ago and it worked ok, certainly didn't take it all off at once but that's no bad thing in Sealandroader's case.
The paint on the Flash was Cellulose (was done about 15 years ago)
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco

Offline bonny

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Re: paint removal
« Reply #7 on: 01.08. 2014 22:21 »
Quote
Nitromors will not move automotive paint anymore

Do you know this for a fact bonny. I have just stripped several layers of lacquer, top coat and primer from my Flash with Nitromors purchased from Halfords  a few weeks ago and it worked ok, certainly didn't take it all off at once but that's no bad thing in Sealandroader's case.
The paint on the Flash was Cellulose (was done about 15 years ago)

The nitromors i used bill came in a green can, the stripper itself was a different colour (white) and a different smell to what i remember it. I tried it on both powder coat and paint, i daubed it on heavy and then covered the work with a refuse sack and left it for an hour. When i came back it had only slightly softened both and had not wrinkled it up as you would expect.  Took the remains back to the shop for a refund and the owner told me he has had more compliants over nitromors than anything else in the shop. The ban on dcm in stripper only came in last summer afaik , so you might have been lucky and got some old pre ban stock.
I bought a litre of strypit on wednesday and was using it tonight, it shifts anything i have put it on so far, powder coat, acrylic , and cellulose paints. Its the one to go for if you want results.

http://www.paintsquare.com/news/?fuseaction=view&id=7328

Online bsa-bill

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Re: paint removal
« Reply #8 on: 02.08. 2014 09:05 »
That's interesting bonnie, my stuff is green, I did buy some stuff (cause it was cheaper) at our local decorators, it was white and pretty useless.
I would think  Halfords would have a quick turnover of stock and would have withdrawn anything that might come back to bite them.
Just wondering if there is fake stuff on the market, they fake everything else (did you get the safety gloves in the lid)@
All the best - Bill
1961 Flash - stock, reliable, steady, fantastic for shopping
1959 Rocket Gold Flash - blinged and tarted up  would have seizure if taken to  Tesco

Offline bonny

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Re: paint removal
« Reply #9 on: 02.08. 2014 13:24 »
That's interesting bonnie, my stuff is green, I did buy some stuff (cause it was cheaper) at our local decorators, it was white and pretty useless.
I would think  Halfords would have a quick turnover of stock and would have withdrawn anything that might come back to bite them.
Just wondering if there is fake stuff on the market, they fake everything else (did you get the safety gloves in the lid)@

yes got the cheapo gloves in the lid. Another possibility if you want a more potent paint remover is to buy a litre of dcm (its still sold for degreasing etc) off flea bay and mix it back into the paint stripper. A lot of lads are doing that.   

 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dichloromethane-99-5-Pure-1-Litre-1L-/140574270571?pt=UK_BOI_Medical_Lab_Equipment_Lab_Supplies_ET&hash=item20bae1246b

Offline a101960

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Re: paint removal
« Reply #10 on: 02.08. 2014 17:18 »
As it happens, by coincidence, I am also in in the middle of  stripping the paint from my C12 project. I have been using  Nitromoors, and it has been OK sort of. It certainly does not seem to work as well as it used to, but then again this the first time that I have used paint stripper in a long time, so it could be that my recollections of its efficiency in the dim and distant past, might well be colouring my judgement.  I have had to strip about 3 coats of paint. Top coat was a paint of unknown type and origin.  It blistered and became soft quite quickly after applying the Nitromoors. The top paint layer could very well have been domestic household paint. It had been applied by brush, and in some areas the coat was quite thick. The second paint layer was the original factory applied BSA maroon (Devon Red). The first thing that I noticed was that  the Nitromoors had penetrated through , and slightly softened  the BSA paint in some, but not all areas from the initial application  to the top coat. This can probably be explained by the variable thickness of  the brushed on top coat. I do not know what the original BSA paint is/was, but it was noticeable that it did not blister. Under the BSA maroon, there was a creamy/yellow under coat. Both of the BSA applied paints were relatively easy to scrape off, but the task was tedious and protracted.  There are several reasons why this was so. To be perfectly honest, the brazing left much to be desired. By that I mean there was quite a lot of excess braze residue comprised of odd spots of  braze not just around the forged casting to tube joints, but  in other less obvious places too. As a result of this  the paint scraping was impeded by the scraper frequently hitting bits of odd braze residue. For this reason the frame tubes were far more difficult to strip than they should have been. The forged castings presented an altogether different problem. Because the castings have a rough (as cast) finish it proved to be very time consuming to remove the paint from them. In most areas the top coat came of without to much trouble, the primer was a different matter though. The primer just like the BSA Maroon did not blister. It just went soft. I found it necessary to use wire wool, pot scourers, and wire brushes to shift it. It clung very tenaciously to the rough surface of the castings. Hardly surprising really. The casting surface is probably the ideal key for paint to stick to. As for the Nitromoors itself? Well, it has done the job, but  going by my experience, you need to apply several successive applications. Apply, scrape off as much as you can, then apply more, and scrape again. Repeat this cycle as necessary. I must be honest, it is hard work, and very tedious. Perseverance is most definatley the key. Incidentally  I got my Nitromoors from Halfords. It came in a square tin with a big green lid. No safety gloves though. Clearly I was done!
John

Offline bonny

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Re: paint removal
« Reply #11 on: 02.08. 2014 19:07 »
Buy some rustins strypit john, it seems to be far more potent than the nitromors and it is the same price, roughly. I apply a good thick layer of stripper and let it sit for a while, when i am happy it has softened the paint i give the area a good scrub with some coarse steel wool or a scotch pad, making sure the work is kept wet with stripper. When i am happy with the work i use a clean piece of steel wool dipped in cellulose gunwash thinners and wipe the area clean. Obviously you need to be in a well ventilated area or you'll wind up high as a kite.

Offline Sealandroader

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Re: paint removal
« Reply #12 on: 02.08. 2014 20:25 »
tried the nitromors method, and found it very long winded, so after an hour or so  one of my mates came  around and  brought some celly thinners,   it just  fell off, very messy though and no damage left underneath,  should really have thought of it myself.  anyway job done.  thanks everyone for your input.
If you rob a bank. YOU go to Jail-------If they rob you---THEY. GET A. BONUS

Offline bonny

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Re: paint removal
« Reply #13 on: 02.08. 2014 23:58 »
what are you going to repaint with sealandroader ?

Online BSA_54A10

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Re: paint removal
« Reply #14 on: 03.08. 2014 01:55 »
I gave up stripping years ago.
there are scores of commercial paint removers down here, again because factories could not comply with the OH&S nazis.
However this has been a blessing for me.
Strip a tank for $ 25.00, full frame for $ 30.00.
The blokes know their stuff and it is actually cheaper than buying stripper, let alone being easier.
Just remember if you are not gong to start the painting within 24 hours give the parts a hit with some sort of product like WD 40 or Innox or get them to put a preserving coat on it or passivate the surface as it will be very clean and chemically active and rust from the moisture in your breath or a fingerprint.
In my case this is exactly what I want the parts to do as I always use POR 15 as a base coat on steel and POR 15 reacts and chemically bonds to surface rust.
If you go down the POR 15 route, then chemical stripping is ideal and actually a lot cheaper than paint stripper, followed by marine clean then surface activator then POR 15.
Bike Beesa
Trevor