As it happens, by coincidence, I am also in in the middle of stripping the paint from my C12 project. I have been using Nitromoors, and it has been OK sort of. It certainly does not seem to work as well as it used to, but then again this the first time that I have used paint stripper in a long time, so it could be that my recollections of its efficiency in the dim and distant past, might well be colouring my judgement. I have had to strip about 3 coats of paint. Top coat was a paint of unknown type and origin. It blistered and became soft quite quickly after applying the Nitromoors. The top paint layer could very well have been domestic household paint. It had been applied by brush, and in some areas the coat was quite thick. The second paint layer was the original factory applied BSA maroon (Devon Red). The first thing that I noticed was that the Nitromoors had penetrated through , and slightly softened the BSA paint in some, but not all areas from the initial application to the top coat. This can probably be explained by the variable thickness of the brushed on top coat. I do not know what the original BSA paint is/was, but it was noticeable that it did not blister. Under the BSA maroon, there was a creamy/yellow under coat. Both of the BSA applied paints were relatively easy to scrape off, but the task was tedious and protracted. There are several reasons why this was so. To be perfectly honest, the brazing left much to be desired. By that I mean there was quite a lot of excess braze residue comprised of odd spots of braze not just around the forged casting to tube joints, but in other less obvious places too. As a result of this the paint scraping was impeded by the scraper frequently hitting bits of odd braze residue. For this reason the frame tubes were far more difficult to strip than they should have been. The forged castings presented an altogether different problem. Because the castings have a rough (as cast) finish it proved to be very time consuming to remove the paint from them. In most areas the top coat came of without to much trouble, the primer was a different matter though. The primer just like the BSA Maroon did not blister. It just went soft. I found it necessary to use wire wool, pot scourers, and wire brushes to shift it. It clung very tenaciously to the rough surface of the castings. Hardly surprising really. The casting surface is probably the ideal key for paint to stick to. As for the Nitromoors itself? Well, it has done the job, but going by my experience, you need to apply several successive applications. Apply, scrape off as much as you can, then apply more, and scrape again. Repeat this cycle as necessary. I must be honest, it is hard work, and very tedious. Perseverance is most definatley the key. Incidentally I got my Nitromoors from Halfords. It came in a square tin with a big green lid. No safety gloves though. Clearly I was done!
John
